Authored by Grant Spolander and Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF)

Ed’s note: The feature below was published in the July/August 2025 issue of 4WD Revolution. Click here to subscribe and receive future issues of 4WD Revolution delivered to your mailbox for free.

ARE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS DELIBERATELY AVOIDING THE DIRTY DIESEL PROBLEM?

I recall reading a story many years ago about how much it would cost to build a Fiat Uno from the parts catalogue; I think it totalled almost R1 million, at a time when the vehicle retailed for around R50k. The article wasn’t an attack on Fiat specifically, but rather illustrated that the automotive industry isn’t shy about charging hefty margins on spare parts.

But overpriced parts aren’t exactly groundbreaking news, nor are they evidence of some sinister conspiracy. But high parts prices are arguably one of the main reasons why so many people ditch their vehicles as soon as the warranty expires. The sad truth is that many of us choose to keep up with automotive debt (including the infamous balloon payment) rather than face the threat of costly repairs and spare parts.

But what if vehicle manufacturers weren’t taking steps to address a known issue in South Africa, an issue which often results in expensive repairs and subsequent parts sales? A cynical person might conclude that their failure to act was influenced by a profit motive. I don’t know. You should make up your own mind on this one.

WHY DIRTY DIESEL IS A PROBLEM

The instructions they gave me were simple: “Go to your nearest packaging supply store and buy five glass jars with sealable lids. Place the jars in your dishwasher on a hot wash. Once the drying cycle is complete and the jars are bone dry, quickly put on the lids to prevent contaminants from entering the jars. Then, visit five different fuel stations in your area (Cape Town), gather a diesel sample from each, and send the samples to our lab in JHB. When you’re next in Gauteng, come to our offices and together we’ll check the diesel quality under a microscope.”

I was chatting to Dean Puntis from Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF), and the above instructions formed part of my homework for this story. I’ve been wanting to write a feature on diesel filtration for some time, and after doing some desk research, I discovered that many leads led to UDF.

Dean wanted me to see, first hand, what the diesel quality was like in my area. I was too intrigued to turn down the offer. However, diesel quality is only part of the story…

It turns out that most modern engine manufacturers recommend a diesel filter spec of between 3 and 5 microns, whereas injector manufacturers stipulate that dirt particles should be removed down to 1 to 3 microns. Vehicle manufacturers don’t accept warranty claims stemming from dirty fuel. So, if your brand-new engine goes “pop” due to dirty diesel (and they can prove it), you’re largely on your own.

But it’s the variance between what the vehicle manufacturer recommends and what the injector manufacturer recommends that’s potentially damaging your engine. Here’s how…

POOR ATOMISATION

In modern diesel engines, fuel enters the cylinder under extremely high pressure and is atomised by the injectors into a fine mist. Proper atomisation ensures that all the available diesel is burnt, maximising energy extraction and efficiency.

But if atomisation isn’t optimal and overfueling occurs, the fuel burns during both the downward and upward strokes of the piston, raising combustion and exhaust-gas temperatures. This additional heat (which the engine isn’t designed for) not only passes through the turbocharger (causing oil breakdown and bearing failure), but can also melt pistons and cause cylinder head damage, depending on the extent of the overfueling.

“Engines and Turbochargers don’t fail for no reason, nor do injectors. There’s a reason behind the failure, and when we look closer, we find that 85 to 90% of all diesel engine failures are due to poor fuel quality, either in the form of dirt particles, water contamination, and/or viscosity” – UDF

THE DANGERS OF OVERFUELING

Even the most microscopic contaminants can disrupt the injector’s performance and the atomisation process by forming larger globules that are more difficult to atomise into a fine mist.

What’s more, contaminants can affect the injector’s performance by causing restrictions in the piston/plunger area or by wearing the delivery holes into an oval shape. As a result, instead of the diesel entering the cylinder as a fine mist, it arrives more like a jet stream or in tiny goblets. This exacerbates the problem, resulting in more unburnt fuel and higher exhaust-gas temperatures.

Unburnt diesel can pool on top of the piston, and when ignited, can result in significant carbon deposits. These deposits trap combustion heat instead of allowing it to escape through the exhaust.

Overfueling can also lead to varnishing or “washing” of the cylinder walls, which compromises the performance of the upper piston rings and may cause diesel to leak past the pistons into the sump. This process of deterioration doesn’t take months or years, either; it can occur in just a few days, depending on the severity of the overfueling.

And, because diesel and engine oil blend seamlessly together without separating, the diesel interferes with the engine oil’s performance. This leads to changes in viscosity and a decrease in the efficacy of the oil’s additives, particularly boron, which acts as a friction modifier to prevent metal-to-metal wear.

“We generally advise people to check their engine oil quality and engine oil levels regularly, especially if they’re travelling to remote areas where poor-quality diesel is a common issue. If you notice that your oil levels are rising on the dipstick or the oil is becoming thinner, it’s quite likely that your diesel is mixing with your engine oil” – UDF

WEAR CHECK

Much like blood tests can unveil underlying health problems long before you’re aware of symptoms, oil analysis can tell you everything you need to know about your 4×4’s engine health.

Engine oils contain several additives and performance markers which quickly become unbalanced if something is wrong. The most widely known oil analysis is called ‘Wear Check’, and it typically costs around R250 per test.

The information it provides is invaluable, as it immediately tells you how the oil is performing, what breakdown is occurring, the number of carbon deposits, and the wear rate on the engine.

The team at UDF uses Wear Check reports to assess the performance of their products and to extend service intervals for their clients. The principle is straightforward: the more contaminants you remove from the diesel, the better the atomisation, leading to a cleaner burn and, consequently, cleaner engine oil.

Filtering diesel to 1 micron is not a commonly recognised concept among 4×4 owners, even though it aligns with recommendations from injector manufacturers. However, the practice offers a significant financial incentive within the mining sector.

“Most major earth-moving companies in South Africa, as well as some in Australia, are utilising Ultrafine Depth Filters. One of our clients has extended their oil change intervals from every 250 hours to every 1 000+ hours. To give you an idea, an ore-moving truck requires anywhere from 120 to 185 litres of synthetic oil. Now consider a fleet of 100 such trucks, all able to extend their oil change intervals fourfold, along with the time and costs associated with oil change services; the savings amount to millions. It’s essential to note that they continually monitor oil quality to ensure the filters are functioning effectively. We’ve only had one earth-moving equipment company request the removal of our filters because they felt it was impacting their sales of replacement engine parts. Of course, these companies go beyond what the average 4×4 owner might do by incorporating engine oil bypass filtration, which further removes contaminants from the oil. But by filtering diesel to an ultrafine level, 4×4 owners can extend their oil change intervals and save a significant amount of money.” – UDF

UNDER THE MICROSCOPE

Back at the lab, I’m finally examining my homework under the microscope, feeling anxious that I might have unknowingly filled my tank with poor-quality diesel. Fortunately, most of the fuel stations I regularly visit have a relatively good reputation. One station is slightly worse than the others, but none of them is terrible. The station closest to my house looks immaculate, most likely due to the recent installation of new underground tanks.

Interestingly, busy fuel stations that constantly replenish their stocks tend to provide cleaner diesel. On the other hand, fuel stations in remote areas with tanks that have been underground or hanging in the air for decades are likely to be less reliable.

Either way, the microscope I’m looking through picks up the tiniest detail, and in the case of diesel, it’s not the big stuff you have to worry about. Most factory-fitted diesel filters easily capture large particles. It’s the quantity of the really fine stuff – usually silica – that does all the damage to your injectors.

I initially thought the diesel samples I brought from the coast would be worse than the samples collected by UDF around Johannesburg. However, when I shared this opinion with the lab technicians at UDF, they couldn’t help but laugh. “No, no, no,” they said. “Many of the samples we test around Johannesburg are horrendous!”

There are dozens of sample patches all over the UDF lab, some cleaner than others, but a number of them look like a dusty sunset over an African plain.

WHY STANDARD FILTERS AREN’T ENOUGH

Most factory-fitted filters face a challenging balancing act. They must effectively remove contaminants while allowing sufficient flow without becoming clogged before the required service intervals. For this reason, an Ultrafine filter cannot serve as the primary filter for a vehicle, as it will quickly become clogged with contaminants, restricting fuel flow.

Therefore, any filtration system that filters down to one micron should be installed in line AFTER the factory-fitted unit.

Standard diesel filters typically feature a 2-ply pleated or semi-rapped design that captures contaminants between the folds of the paper. However, what you can’t see is that smaller contaminants are captured by tiny microfibers that are barely visible to the naked eye.

Unfortunately, these microfibers are quite fragile. When exposed to vibrations, pulsation, bumps, or impacts, they tend to break off, allowing contaminants to pass through. “Watch this,” Dean says, tapping the fuel filter with his knuckle while diesel flows through their bench-test filtration machine.

Although the standard filter appears to have removed some of the ultra-fine contaminants they intentionally add to the test fuel, the moment Dean taps the filter housing, large debris is immediately visible in the output jar. As someone who has made his career out of driving 4x4s down bumpy trails, you can imagine that this revelation came as quite a shock.

“Interestingly, an old filter often does a better job of removing contaminants than a new one because the accumulated debris helps trap even more pollutants. However, the downside is that if the filter is jolted or shaken – such as when hitting a pothole or driving over corrugations – the microfibers between the pleats can break off and release the contaminants they’ve collected” – UDF

WHERE DOES DIRTY DIESEL COME FROM?

So, where do all these contaminants come from? The engineers at UDF explain, “If you’re a fuel wholesaler, the general rule is that every time you move fuel, you filter fuel. However, the reality in South Africa is quite different. Much of the supply chain and fuel transport systems are old and unfiltered.”

Interestingly, the breather pipes you see at most fuel stations have a 180-degree bend at the top to prevent dirt from entering the tanks. That’s the only safeguard – just a bend. Apart from that, there is no filtering on the breather pipes. As temperature fluctuations occur, diesel expands and contracts, which draws air into the storage tank through the breather pipe. Over time, the inhaled debris accumulates at the bottom of the tank.

The same situation applies to most vehicles, which are equipped with fuel tank breather pipes. However, these pipes often lack filters at the end of them, too. You might be wondering about the forecourt pumps that deliver the fuel to your 4×4. While the pumps do have their own filtration systems, they typically consist of 10 to 20 micron spin-on type paper filters – similar to what’s found in most cars.

Some fuel stations do see the benefits of ultrafine filtration, particularly those that supply diesel to large fleet-based companies. Consider the potential backlash if a courier company experiences multiple engine failures traced back to a single fuel source. Not only could the supplier risk losing a significant contract, but they may also be held liable for damages.

WHAT NOW?

Although aftermarket add-on diesel filters are pretty commonplace amongst off-road enthusiasts, they’re generally the type of units designed to remove water or moisture from the diesel. While this is vitally important to prevent injector-tip failure, most factory-fitted water separators work quite well.

“Although we offer aftermarket water separators, the truth is that most standard water separators are usually quite effective. The issue lies not with the separator itself but with the fact that people don’t drain the water trap often enough. We typically recommend bleeding the separator at least once a month. If this is not done, the water level can rise high enough that it gets sucked back into the fuel line and enters the fuel system, causing super-heated steam in the injector tips” – UDF

What’s truly remarkable about this topic is that although it’s well known that diesel quality in South Africa isn’t particularly good, and there have been multiple scandals involving paraffin being added to diesel to bump up profit margins – often at the expense of your engine’s longevity, very few people are aware of diesel filtration as it relates to atomisation, oil degradation, fuel economy, emissions, performance, and engine longevity.

With that in mind, I asked the UDF team, “How many 4×4 fitment shops are reselling these filters?” They replied, “In the Johannesburg area, a few. In the Cape Town area, maybe one or two.” It’s surprising because the installation process seems relatively straightforward, and the upfront cost isn’t too bad. Less than a tenth of what an injector replacement would cost you.

This raises an important question: If ultrafine filtration is affordable, readily available, easy to install, and proven to work in the cost-driven mining sector, why aren’t vehicle manufacturers including it as a factory option? It’s an especially relevant question considering the numerous scandals surrounding diesel quality in South Africa.

I pose the same question to Dean, who replies, “In their defence, the vehicle manufacturers aren’t to blame for South Africa’s poor diesel quality. And the same wear and tear happens in overseas markets, but it just happens a whole lot faster in SA due to our diesel. As for why they don’t fit finer filters to combat the issue? I suppose that could relate to the service plan and the fact that an ultrafine filter may increase the number of service intervals needed per year just to replace the diesel filter. All in all, it’s a uniquely South African problem. And we’re small fish in a big global pond”.

Click here to contact UDF, or enter your email below to receive a free bi-monthly copy of 4WD Revolution.

The post KILLER DIESEL appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Authored by TyreLife Solutions

First some background. When it comes to buying off-road tyres, there’s little doubt that Light Truck (LT) variant tyres should be at the top of your shopping list, especially if you intend to drive off-road, tow a trailer (or caravan or boat), or heavily modify your vehicle with aftermarket accessories. You see, LT tyres have stronger carcasses, deeper treads, tougher compounds, and they’re capable of carrying heavier loads than their P-Metric equivalents. P-Metric is industry shorthand for passenger vehicle. 

What many don’t realise is that the vast majority of all-terrain tyres (or ATs as they’re often commonly called) are P-Metric variants. So, although the tread pattern may suggest it’s an off-road tyre, the truth is that most P-metric tyres have poor load-carrying capabilities, limited puncture resistance, wear much faster, and offer little off-road durability against cuts and stone damage – when compared to an LT variant.

The interesting thing about mud-terrain tyres is that most of them are LT variants. It’s only in the all-terrain sector that the confusion occurs, and that’s because the visual differences between an LT and a P-Metric all-terrain are not always noticeable. There is no P-Metric lettering, so unless it says LT on the sidewall, you can safely assume it’s a P-Metric. Aside from this easily-overlooked sidewall detail, the two types of tyres may look identical in every other respect. 

Bottom line, if you want a true off-road tyre which can handle off-road terrain without sustaining punctures, sidewall damage, or total tread destruction, you need an LT variant tyre so make sure you can see the letters’ LT’ on the sidewall. But why would vehicle manufacturers knowingly fit ‘inferior’ P-Metric tyres to their 4WD offerings? Two reasons…

Firstly, they’re competing against other vehicle manufacturers in the arenas of fuel economy, driving comfort, and emission standards – and these are all areas directly affected by the weight, strength and rigidity of the vehicle’s tyres. And secondly, vehicle manufacturers have to consider economics and retail price. Given that LT tyres can cost more than double their P-Metric alternatives, fitting LTs as standard spec to a vehicle would increase its cost which could lead to fewer sales. 

FUEL ECONOMY

So we’re back to the burning question, “Will an all-terrain or mud-terrain tyre affect my vehicle’s fuel consumption?” The short answer is yes. An aggressive tread design plays a big role in fuel economy, and that’s because large tread lugs typically have more wind drag and a higher rolling resistance.

However, there’s more to the subject of fuel economy than just tread design. Although certain tread patterns and compounds might offer up more rolling resistance, the tyre’s overall mass has the greater impact on fuel consumption. Heavy tyres require more energy to turn, and in most cases, LT tyres are considerably heavier than P-Metrics, sometimes up to 40% heavier! Hence the added fuel use. Naturally, if you also decide to fit a larger tyre than the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended diameter, this will also negatively impact fuel economy.

Finally, one should also remember that not all LT tyres are constructed equally; other factors, such as compound quality, steel reinforcement, steel gauge, and nylon-cord quantity and quality, come into play when choosing between brands. On that note, the decision to replace your factory-fitted P-metric tyres with a Light Truck tyre shouldn’t be taken lightly. The downside is a slight (but noticeable) decrease in fuel efficiency. The upsides are:

• Longer service life
• Significantly better puncture resistance
• Significantly better resistance to sidewall damage
• Better heat resistance
• Greater load-carrying capacity
• Vast improvement in off-road durability
• Better steering response due to stiffer sidewalls

Do your sums carefully. It’s often possible that the fuel consumption trade-off is more than offset by the advantages offered. Now that you know the facts, you can make an educated decision. 

The post Do Off-Road Tyres Use More Fuel? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Feel free to download all back issues here.

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In This Issue:

• Anysberg Nature Reserve – Destination review.
• The true benefit of a snorkel.
• What it takes to tackle the Cape Route Rally.
• Does engine oil really expire within a year?
• How to use a winch damper, the right way?
• Malawi – When plans fail.
• National Luna 45L Travel Box.
• Off-road insurance with Tuffstuff Insurance.

The post NOV / DEC 24 ISSUE appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

In this copy of 4WD Revolution…

SIX OF THE BEST

We asked the folks at Tracks4Africa and ZA TRAX for their favourite Richtersveld campsites. Here’s what they had to say. Read more.

JUMBO JIM

How to fit bigger tyres to a Jimny Gen 4. Read more.

FATTIES OR SKINNIES

The arguments for wide vs narrow tyres for your 4×4. Read more.

HARD LIFE

How a loan Hardbody looks after SA’s busiest mountain bike region. Read more.

MAKGADIKGADI PANS

Driving tips for the Makgadikgadi Pans. Read more.

LITHIUM vs LEAD ACID

The pros & cons of a lithium dual-battery system. Read more.

The post SEPT / OCT 24 ISSUE appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

But before you turn to a cargo trailer as the answer, consider the hassle of towing, licensing, storing and maintaining that trailer. No, what you need – what most campers need – is a roof rack.

BENEFITS OF A ROOF RACK

An expedition-style roof rack doesn’t just double or triple your vehicle’s packing space; it also serves as a foundation for many more add-ons and improvements, such as an awning, rooftop tent, or even outdoor shower.

Fortunately, South Africa produces some of the world’s best roof racks. But amongst those, few rival Eezi-Awn and their 40+ year history serving the camping / overland market.

Famously known as the inventor of present-shape rooftop tents in 1989, today, Eezi-Awn boasts dozens of overland solutions, including a wide range of expedition roof racks that have travelled to every corner of the globe. If you’re still unconvinced, here are five more reasons you should choose an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack.

1) EXPEDITION ROOF RACK

One of the unique features of an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack is its expedition-style construction and double-slat design. Unlike other racks that only have lateral slats running in one direction, an Eezi-Awn rack is supported longitudinally and laterally. 

This means the rack can carry significantly more weight without the slats bending or fatiguing on corrugated roads. It also means the gaps between the slats are smaller, so loose items (like bags of firewood) are less likely to shift between them. 

More importantly, the slats are rigid and don’t bow when you walk on them, so the roof rack can be mounted super close to your vehicle’s roof line. This brings us to the next point…

2) A TRULY LOW-PROFILE ROOF RACK

The ability to mount a roof rack as low as possible makes it look less like a bulky afterthought and more like a factory-fitted item. It also helps reduce wind noise and resistance and provides better clearance for underground parking.

3) SIMPLE MOUNTING SYSTEM

Eezi-Awn K9 roof racks are renowned for their simple yet sturdy mounting system. Unlike other racks, which use small, intricate tools that easily strip or round their edges, Eezi-Awn’s mounting system is super simple and robust, using standard tool sizes that won’t strip if you regularly remove the rack.

4) ROOF RACK ACCESSORIES

One advantage of choosing an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack is the wide range of accessories that work seamlessly with the rack. This allows you to customise your roof rack with everything from jerry-can holders and high-lift jack mounts to awnings and rooftop tents.

5) HISTORY & INNOVATION

As mentioned before, Eezi-Awn manufactured the first rooftop tents in Southern Africa, which profoundly influenced how people camp and travel worldwide. Since then, the company has remained at the forefront of innovation and overland travel.

In its most basic sense, an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack will significantly improve your vehicle’s packing space and versatility, but beyond that, it’s a long-term investment from a long-term company that shows no signs of taking a back seat.

Click here for more information on Eezi-Awn K9 roof racks.

The post Why Choose An Eezi-Awn Roof Rack appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

You’ll find this information stamped on the tyre’s sidewall, just after the DOT number. These days, the manufacturing date is depicted as a four-digit code, where the first two digits represent the week the tyre was manufactured, while the last two digits represent the year.

For example: If the tyre’s sidewall is stamped 4920, it means the tyre was manufactured in the 49th week, of the year 2020.

Get an instant online quote

on a wide range of tyres by clicking here

HOW OLD IS TOO OLD

But what about an expiry date? Is this information also displayed on the sidewall?

In most cases: No it isn’t.

However, in terms of industry standards, it’s widely considered that most tyres should be replaced once the manufacturer’s warranty has lapsed. Typically speaking, this period is limited to 5- or 6-years depending on the brand and/or quality of the tyre.

That said, it’s important to remember that even if the tyre’s tread depth appears deep enough to keep using, it could be that the tyre is too old to safely use.

NATURAL MATERIALS

Because tyres are made from naturally occurring materials (i.e. rubber), overtime, these materials may oxidise and “dry out”. This oxidation effect can impact the tyre’s flexibility making the compound harder, more brittle, and poorer performing.

If left long enough, the tyre may start to break apart under stressful conditions, such as: hard braking, acceleration and cornering.

What’s more, because the oxidation process starts – albeit very slowly – from the day the tyre is made, it’s important to note the date of manufacture on any set of tyres, especially on a used vehicle.  

Get an instant online quote

on a wide range of tyres by clicking here

CARAVANS & TRAILERS

This last point is particularly important for caravan or trailer owners. This is because, in most cases, caravan tyres seldom need replacing due to mileage and tread wear, but instead, because of oxidation and/or UV damage over time.

The post Do tyres have an expiry date? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Unless you’re using a foldable solar panel for camping, such as Flexopower’s popular BAJA 105 and NAMIB 150 products, you may be tempted to save boot space by mounting your solar panel on your vehicle’s roof, or, on the roof of your off-road trailer / caravan.

This is especially true for campers using large-size solar panels that won’t fit in the boot- or load-bin area of their vehicle.

Of course, there’s nothing wrong with mounting your solar panel on your vehicle’s roof; panels such as the Tacoma-130 (which are popular on trailers and campers) feature a semi-flexible design that’s purposefully made to follow the curvature of a vehicle’s roof.

However, a panel-killing problem may exist in how the panel is mounted.

Because roof-mounted panels are subject to aerodynamic fluttering, any gap between the panel and the roof itself will likely cause your panel to flutter its way to an early death. Sadly, many campers make the mistake of thinking that their solar panel is securely strapped down and that no movement is possible.

The reality, however, is that wind turbulence can’t be tampered down, and after prolonged exposure this wind-fluttering effect will gradually cause the cells to disconnect. The result is a continuous loss of power until the solar panel eventually fails outright.

Here’s a real-life example…

Some time ago a Flexopower client installed three Tacoma-130 panels on his off-road trailer. After just 2 road trips, all three panels stopped working at exactly the same time with zero output!

Flexopower replaced all three panels under warranty, however, 6-months later the same customer reported that the three newly installed panels had failed again! 

An inspection of the installation quickly revealed that there were noticeable gaps between the panels and the roof. The panels were all adequately secured to the roof structure, however, the side edges were not quite sealed against the airflow. The resulting air ingress caused all three solar panels to flutter.

To confirm this effect, Flexopower mounted a camera on the vehicle’s roof, where it became clear that the panels started to flutter at approximately 40km/h. Naturally, things got worse as the vehicle’s speed was increased.

So what’s the solution? Firstly, it must be said that any semi-flexible panel will fail if subjected to wind fluttering. The air gap between the panel(s) and the roof should be sealed on all sides of the panel, not just the front.

Give Flexopower a call on (011) 658 0500 for more solar advice in terms of…

• What size solar panel you need?
• Should you use a semi-flexible panel, or a foldable unit?
• How much dual-battery power is enough

The post WHY YOUR SOLAR PANEL MAY BE DYING AN EARLY DEATH appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

You can read that blog piece here, otherwise, here’s the summarised version…

Although a 40A DC-DC charger appears to be the ultimate dual-battery solution, the benefit of using a 40A charger is only truly seen during the ‘bulk’ stage of the recharge cycle. 

Once you include the ‘absorption’ stage in the overall process, the total recharge time is similar for both a 25A and 40A DC-DC system.

This is because the total recharge time is determined by the battery’s technology, and not the charger itself. Simply put: The battery is the limiting factor, not the DC-DC!

However, because a 40A DC-DC charger will reduce the bulk charging time of your auxiliary battery, the real benefits are realised when you need to quickly replace used energy within the first 3-hours of driving. 

If you’re using a lithium battery, you could potentially knock that time down to 2-hours.

NATIONAL LUNA’S NEW 40A GREEN BOX

With the above points in mind, National Luna is due to launch a brand new 40A DC-DC power pack. It will be the first of its kind on the market, and further cements the company’s position as a global leader in dual-battery solutions. 

National Luna previously launched a 25A DC-DC portable power pack in 2019 (aka: The Green Box). Due to the success of that product worldwide, and calls for a 40A version, they’re now launching a far punchier unit, one that incorporates their built-in 40A DC-DC charger. 

25A GREEN BOX vs 40A GREEN BOX

So why would you want a 40A DC-DC power pack instead of a 25A unit? Well, the higher amperage is beneficial when…

• You want a much faster charging time within the first 3-hours of driving – which is arguably where it matters most
• You have a large capacity battery
• You want the extra solar capabilities
• You’re powering a load (a fridge or another appliance) at the same time as charging the battery
• You have an alternative power source such as a wind generator

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Other features of the 40A National Luna Green Box include: 

Plug ’n play solar input

Lithium-ion compatibility

Built-in battery voltage meter

220V input charging port

Customisable faceplate with multiple power inputs

True 40A output current

5-stage intelligent charge algorithm

AGM, Gel, Wet, Calcium, Lithium-Ion support

Alternator input up to 32V

40A, 600W MPPT solar regulator

Supports solar panels up to 42V

Separate auxiliary DC input up to 32V

Smart-alternator compatible

Battery temperature compensation for safe charging

Short-circuit protected

Reverse-polarity protected

Over-voltage protected

Over-temperature protected

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The post National Luna’s new 40A DC-DC Green Box appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

One of my favourite pastimes on the weekend is classic-car restoration. But as any jalopy owner will tell you, the greatest challenge of any restoration project is… Rust!

Needless to say, when it comes to rust, shortcuts are the enemy. A shortcut today creates double the work tomorrow. So from that perspective, “de-rusting” automotive parts is a time consuming job that requires lots of elbow grease.

What’s more, the process often involves many conflicting arguments such as, “Okay, that’s good enough, I’ve got all the rust”. Which is then met with a nagging sensation that says, “Stop being lazy, you know the rust will come back, so do the job right the first time!”

Well, that all changed when I stumbled upon two great products that should be in every garage man’s tool cabinet: EVAPO-RUST and Zinc-It!

I recently gave both products a try on a set of headlight mounting rings. The steel rings were pretty badly rusted and the retaining screws required several squirts of Q20 beforehand to loosen them up.

Once that was done, I dropped the rings into a bath of EVAPO-RUST for roughly 24-hours and waited for the results.

Much to my surprise, the rings needed no further scrubbing or brushing; I just rinsed them off with water, allowed them to dry, and then gave them a liberal coat of Zinc-It.

I followed the Zinc-It coat with a fresh coat of black spray paint, and mounted the rings to the new headlights. Viola, job done! No cursing, no elbow grease, and no back-and-forth arguments where laziness and guilt-trips battle it out.

I’m now excitedly looking for more rust covered components that I can restore.     

The post How to remove rust from an old car – best product appeared first on 4WD Revolution.