Welcome to the new 4WD Revolution.

We’ve changed the way we publish content. From now on, you’ll find new features online, brought together in a monthly newsletter like this one.

It’s a change we’ve been thinking about for some time. Our editor’s column explains why, and what comes next.

ED’S COLUMN: GROWING PAINS

Grant explains why 4WD Revolution is moving beyond the traditional issue-and-PDF model, and what we’re hoping to build with the new online Library. READ MORE

THE NO.1 MISTAKE OFF-ROADERS MAKE WHEN BUYING AN ALL-TERRAIN

Same size. Same tread pattern. Same product name. But two very different tyres. We put LT and P-metric all-terrain tyres to the test to uncover the differences that aren’t obvious at first glance—and why choosing the wrong one could ruin your next trip. READ MORE

NAMIBIA OR BOTSWANA?

We look beyond the obvious attractions to explore what each country offers the off-road traveller — and help you work out which one might be right for your first cross-border adventure. READ MORE

HOW TO MAXIMISE YOUR SUV’S PACKING SPACE

Your SUV might have more packing space than you think. We take a closer look at a Fortuner’s storage potential and explore how a smarter approach to drawers, fridges and load space can transform the way you pack for family getaways. READ MORE

OUR SUPPORTERS

Everything we publish is made possible with the support of the brands you see here. Their backing allows us to continue producing practical 4WD content without putting it behind a paywall.

If you find our stories useful, please support these businesses when you have the opportunity.

Would your brand like to support what we’re building? We’d love to hear from you: CONTACT US

The post VOLUME 13 appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

If you’ve ever spent time around a toddler, you’ve probably witnessed the so-called Terrible Twos. Experts say the tantrums stem from young children trying to figure out their place in the world while lacking the communication skills to explain what they’re thinking. The result is an incoherent, wildly unreasonable little person whom you’re somehow expected to be endlessly patient with.

Well, guess what? 4WD Revolution turns two this month, and I’m about to ask you to do the same.

About six months ago, I wrote an editor’s column asking for your feedback. I wanted to know what you liked, what you didn’t and—most importantly—what direction you thought the magazine should take.

It took me weeks to reply to everyone. Not just because there were so many emails, but because I wanted to give each response the same level of thought that many of you had put into your feedback.

What surprised me wasn’t the number of responses. It was how similar they were.

A clear pattern began to emerge.

PATTERN RECOGNITION

Time and again, readers said they valued in-depth, well-researched articles that offered practical advice rather than superficial content. Many of you also told me you were collecting the magazines and keeping them on file as a reference.

That felt important somehow, but much like a two-year-old trying to explain why he absolutely must wear gumboots to bed, I couldn’t quite articulate why.

Then, one afternoon, it finally clicked.

This isn’t becoming a magazine.

It’s becoming a library.

That realisation changed things.

Readers aren’t simply reading 4WD Revolution. They’re using it as a reference. And that’s when I realised we’d created an unexpected problem.

A reference guide is only as good as its index. So, if the information you’re looking for is scattered across half a dozen back issues, it isn’t really a guide at all. It’s just a collection of magazines, and finding the answer becomes an exercise in frustration rather than a genuinely useful resource.

So I started asking a different question.

Not, “How do we build a better magazine?”

But rather…

“How do we build something that’s genuinely more useful?”

The answer, I think, is surprisingly simple.

Don’t build a magazine. Build a library.

After all, a magazine is something you read once. A library is something you can return to.

Caption: Over time, we’ll continue adding old and new features to their relevant categories, making it easier to find useful stories when researching a topic. But more than that, we want to include your experiences, too. If you’d like to contribute to a topic, get in touch with us here.

THE COMPOUND EFFECT

In practical terms, that means we’re moving away from producing dated PDF issues and towards publishing articles as they’re completed. Instead of waiting months for the next issue, you’ll receive new stories throughout the year. The best of them will be continually expanded, refined, and woven into dedicated topic guides which become more comprehensive with every update.

Over the coming months, you’ll start seeing that vision take shape. So rather than producing PDF magazines that slowly become yesterday’s news, I want us to build something that becomes more valuable with time.

Every new article, every reader contribution and every fresh piece of research should strengthen the articles that came before it.

I’ve been writing about 4x4s for almost 20 years, and in that time I’ve been constantly reminded of two things: how much I still have to learn, and that our collective knowledge is far greater than any one person’s.

That’s the future I want to build.

And if your emails and contributed stories are anything to go by, I have a feeling it’s one we’ll build together.

You can start by contacting us here.

The post GROWING PAINS appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

YOUR FIRST CROSS-BORDER ADVENTURE

For many South African 4×4 owners, crossing an international border is high on the bucket list.

You’ve explored your own country, tackled increasingly remote destinations, and perhaps even started to equip your vehicle for longer trips. Eventually, the question comes up: where next?

Namibia and Botswana are obvious candidates. Both are relatively accessible from South Africa, both offer spectacular scenery and wildlife, and both provide the kind of freedom and remoteness that makes an overlanding adventure so appealing.

But they’re very different destinations.

Namibia delivers extraordinary landscapes – the kind that stay with you long after you’ve returned home – while Botswana offers some of the finest wildlife experiences on the planet.

So, if you’ve never taken your 4×4 over an international border before, which should you tackle first – Namibia or Botswana?

TIME TO CHOOSE

If you’ve never taken your 4×4 over an international border before, Namibia is probably the easier place to start.

That’s not to say Botswana is particularly difficult. Rather, Namibia offers a relatively gentle introduction to cross-border 4×4 travel.

For South African travellers, there’s the familiarity of the rand, while Namibia’s road network is generally good, and its low rainfall means you’re less likely to encounter the kind of seasonal road conditions that can turn a straightforward journey into a recovery adventure.

It’s also relatively easy to plan a trip around established routes, accommodation and campsites, and much of southern Namibia can be explored without an overly complicated vehicle setup.

And that makes Namibia more than just a great holiday destination. It’s a good place to learn the ropes of cross-border travel.

You’ll get a feel for travelling long distances, managing fuel and water, dealing with border crossings, planning around remote destinations and discovering what equipment you actually use – and what you don’t.

In other words, Namibia can serve as something of a trial run for bigger and more demanding adventures.

NORTH VERSUS SOUTH

There is, however, an important distinction to make.

Southern Namibia is considerably more accessible than the remote north.

Once you start heading into northern Namibia, the distances become greater, supplies harder to come by, and the roads considerably more challenging. You’re dealing with a much more remote environment where vehicle preparation, recovery equipment, fuel, water, and self-sufficiency become increasingly important.

So, when we say Namibia is an easier introduction to cross-border travel, we’re primarily talking about southern Namibia.

And that’s where we’re going to start.

Over the course of this series, we’ll look at what you need to know before setting off, how to prepare your 4×4, what equipment is genuinely useful and what you can probably leave at home.

We’ll start with a trip to southern Namibia before moving north into more remote and demanding territory. We’ll then turn our attention to Botswana, including water crossings, wildlife, travelling with kids, and the pros and cons of towing a trailer or caravan.

You can follow that series by subscribing here.

But before we get into all of that, here are some final thoughts on choosing between Namibia and Botswana.

CHOOSE NAMIBIA IF YOU WANT:

Dramatic landscapes

Solitude and wide-open spaces

Desert and mountain scenery

Long-distance exploration

Photography – without the expensive telephoto lenses often needed for wildlife photography

A sense of remoteness

An easier introduction to cross-border 4×4 travel

CHOOSE BOTSWANA IF YOU WANT:

Wildlife

Rivers, wetlands, and bush

Game drives

Predators and big game

Wilderness camping

A more traditional African safari experience

If this is your first cross-border 4×4 adventure, our advice is simple: start with southern Namibia. It offers enough distance, remoteness and adventure to feel like a proper expedition, without immediately throwing you into the deep end.

And once you’ve got that first border crossing under your belt, you’ll have a much better idea of where you want to go next.

The journey continues: In the next instalment, we’ll head into southern Namibia, looking at what you can expect along the way, where to go and, most importantly, how to prepare your 4×4 for the journey.

Want to follow the series? Subscribe to the 4WD Revolution newsletter here and we’ll send the next chapter straight to your inbox.

Have something to add? We’d love to hear from you. Contact us here.

The post NAMIBIA OR BOTSWANA? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Chat to a group of Fortuner owners and many will admit they toyed with the idea of buying a Hilux before finally settling on the SUV.

The double-cab versus SUV debate isn’t unique to Toyota. And it always ultimately comes down to two things: storage and cost.

Drop a canopy onto the back of a double-cab and you have a deep, square load area which offers generous and practical storage. There’s just one problem: the canopy itself.

A fit-for-purpose canopy, with rubberising, and a proper dust-sealing kit, can easily add another R50 – 65k to the vehicle’s sticker price. Whereas, an SUV like the Fortuner arrives pretty much ready to explore.

But while there’s not much you need to do to most SUVs to make them off-road ready and dust proof, there is one area where they typically struggle: packing space.

Caption: Most 4×4 SUVs are essentially turnkey, providing safe, dust- and weather-proof storage straight from the factory. The downside is that their available packing volume rarely matches that of a double-cab. This means SUV owners need to be more inventive – and more critical – about how they use the space available.

THE BOOT PROBLEM

Even with the third row of seats removed, SUV owners have to work harder and be more inventive with the space on offer.

Traditionally, that meant fitting a standard drawer system, putting the fridge on top, then adding a fridge slide, and often a protective cage around the fridge to keep camping gear away from the cooling vents and access points.

Happily, there’s a new solution on offer.

A collaboration between Big Country and National Luna has resulted in a completely new approach to fridge design.

It combines a dedicated drawer fridge with a purpose-designed drawer system to make considerably better use of an SUV’s limited boot space.

Caption: A conventional drawer system typically places the fridge on top, using a drop-down fridge slide to clear the roof when the lid is opened, while also making it easier to see and reach items at the bottom. It’s a tried-and-tested solution, but a fully loaded fridge can be surprisingly heavy, requiring increasingly elaborate – and expensive – slide mechanisms to manage the weight. The Drawer Fridge does away with all of that.

A DIFFERENT KIND OF FRIDGE

The heart of the system is National Luna’s completely different approach to fridge design. Unlike a conventional camping fridge, the 40- and 60-litre National Luna Drawer Fridges feature an externally-mounted compressor. This allows the fridge to sit low and integrate directly into a drawer system, eliminating the need for a conventional drop-down fridge slide.

That seemingly simple change has some significant advantages.

Because the fridge can be mounted at floor level, everything inside is easy to see and reach without having to drop the fridge to access its contents. More importantly, it changes what happens around the fridge.

There’s no protective cage to take up valuable space, no need to accommodate a drop-down fridge slide, and no awkward packing arrangements dictated by the fridge’s position. The entire drawer system also has a flat upper surface, creating a much more practical platform for luggage and camping gear.

LOW PROFILE, HIGH UTILITY 

Best of all, the overall height penalty is surprisingly small, and you still get plenty of vertical packing space that can be utilised.

Big Country was the first to take advantage of this new fridge design, developing a drawer system specifically around the National Luna Drawer Fridge.

The result is a storage solution that makes the most of an SUV’s available space, while also incorporating a dedicated area at the rear for mounting a dual-battery and charging system.

Caption: To make the most of every available centimetre, Big Country has incorporated a dedicated dual-battery shelf at the rear of the drawer system, providing a neat home for the auxiliary battery and charger.

NOT JUST FOR FORTUNERS

And the idea isn’t limited to mid-sized SUVs like the Fortuner.

The National Luna Drawer Fridge and Big Country Drawer System are also available for the Land Cruiser 100, 200, and 300 Series. These larger vehicles make use of the 60-litre Drawer Fridge, while the Fortuner uses the 40-litre unit.

Caption: Of course, the National Luna Drawer Fridge isn’t limited to off-the-shelf storage solutions. Its low-profile design makes it an ideal candidate for a custom drawer system in just about any vehicle.

There are more applications in the pipeline, including a 37-litre version and dedicated drawer system for the Ineos Grenadier. The Suzuki Jimny is also under consideration.

So, while this particular solution might have started with the Fortuner, the thinking behind it has a broader application: use the space you have more cleverly.

For updates on new applications as they become available, subscribe to the 4WD Revolution mailing list here.

PRICING

NL40 Single Control R13 700

NL40 Dual Control R15 400

NL60 Single Control R15 500

NL60 Dual Control R17 500

The Big Country Drawer Fridge storage system starts at R30 999.

To check if there’s a Drawer Fridge and Big Country storage solution for your vehicle, call:

Safari Centre on (021) 595 3910 for Western Cape enquiries.

Big Country on (011) 795 9700 for Gauteng enquiries.

National Luna on (011) 452 5438 for nationwide fridge enquiries. 

Have something to add? We’d love to hear from you. Contact us here.

The post How to maximise your SUV’s packing space. appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Authored by 4WD Revolution.

“How much did you pay for your all-terrain tyres again?”

You can tell by the smirk on your mate’s face that it’s a loaded question. He’s obviously got a better deal on the same tyre, but you play along anyway.

“I think it was R4.5k per tyre. Why do you ask?”

“Jeez, that’s quite pricey. I just bought the same tyre, same size, same tread pattern, for R3.5k per tyre.”

The statement stings. Not just because he’s taking obvious pleasure in one-upping you, but because you’re now wondering whether your tyre dealer ripped you off.

But wait, did he actually buy the same tyre?

Didn’t you once read an article in this very publication about how LT and P-metric tyres look almost identical, but are fundamentally different underneath?

That’s right, you probably did. 

Which means you didn’t necessarily get ripped off by your tyre dealer, and your mate hasn’t necessarily scored a better deal. In fact, if you’re a 4×4 owner who regularly ventures off-road, carries a fair load, and deflates his tyres on a regular basis, you may have bought the more appropriate tyre for your application.

Here’s why…

LT VERSUS P-METRIC

As mentioned above, we’ve discussed LT and P-metric tyres before, but usually as a footnote in a broader tyre story. This time, we’re putting these two different types under the microscope and seeing how they differ — so you don’t buy the wrong tyre for your application.

To recap, many all-terrain tyres are available in two specifications: LT (Light Truck) and P-metric (Passenger-metric), with the latter sometimes marketed as an SUV tyre.

When you buy a brand-new 4×4, the chances are very high it’ll arrive from the factory wearing P-metric all-terrain rubber.

The first thing to be aware of is that there’s nothing inherently wrong with a P-metric tyre. For the average 4×4 owner, there are actually some compelling reasons to choose this type. They’re generally lighter, cheaper, quieter, and more comfortable than their LT equivalents; while their lower weight can also contribute to better fuel economy.

The interesting part is that an LT and P-metric version of the same all-terrain tyre can look almost identical from the outside. Same tread pattern. Same sidewall design. Same overall appearance.

But underneath that familiar exterior, you’re looking at two totally different tyres. It’s like you’re comparing a RAV4 to a Land Cruiser – sure, they’re both Toyotas, but that’s where the similarity ends. 

LT tyres are generally heavier and more robustly constructed, with greater load-carrying capability, and greater resistance to the abuse associated with heavy loads, lower pressures, and rough terrain. They also often have deeper tread, although this isn’t an inherent requirement of an LT tyre.

Caption: Although deeper tread isn’t a prerequisite for LT classification, LT tyres often feature deeper treads than their P-metric counterparts. Depending on your driving style and application, this can translate into a longer service life.

In the case of our test tyres, measured at the same location on each, the P-metric had 10mm of tread depth, compared with 12mm on the LT. That may not sound like much, but it represents 20% more tread — and potentially 20% more value from your tyre.

So what this means is that an LT tyre is a sensible choice if your 4×4 is heavily laden with accessories, camping equipment and other gear, particularly if you regularly deflate your tyres when driving off-road.

The reason comes down to something we can’t see from the outside: construction.

An LT tyre’s more robust construction allows it to better tolerate the additional heat and deflection generated when carrying heavy loads at reduced pressures. Its stronger casing and sidewall can also provide greater resistance to impacts, and reduce sidewall bulging when deflated.

And that matters because a sidewall puncture is a very different proposition to a simple tread puncture. While a tread puncture can often be repaired, damage to the sidewall can render the tyre unrepairable — potentially turning a chance encounter with a sharp rock or piece of debris into an expensive mistake.

THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS

To illustrate some of the key differences between LT and P-metric tyres, we asked the good folks at General Tire if we could borrow two versions of the same tyre.

While many of the major tyre brands offer LT and P-metric versions of their popular all-terrain products, the General Grabber AT3 is a particularly good case study for comparing the differences.

Among South African vehicle brands, the P-metric Grabber AT3 is a popular OE (original equipment) tyre, which makes it a common choice when owners come to replace their original tyres – because we’re inclined to stay with what we know. 

But if you want to upgrade your vehicle’s off-road ability, the LT variant of the Grabber AT3 deserves serious consideration. Sure, it’s more expensive, but let’s look at what it offers you in real terms – actual measurements.

WEIGHT

Using a basic floor scale, the LT weighed in at 23.1 kg, versus 17.5 kg for the P-metric. That’s a difference of 5.6 kg per tyre — almost 33% more unsprung weight.

Much of this additional weight comes from the LT’s more robust construction, including its heavier casing, steel reinforcement, and deeper tread blocks.

The beefier construction allows the LT to safely contain higher pressures and carry greater loads.

There are downsides to all that extra rubber and reinforcement of course. More unsprung weight can affect fuel consumption, ride quality, and suspension performance, particularly if your shocks are already tired.

However, for an off-road-focused 4×4, those compromises are a worthwhile trade-off given the increased durability and load-carrying capability.

And weight is only the beginning.

LOAD

The most significant difference between an LT and P-metric tyre comes down to how much weight each is designed to carry.

Tyres communicate this information in several ways, including load index, load range, and maximum load capacity.

Explaining all the numbers and letters is probably better suited to a separate article, but the important thing to understand is this simple fact: An LT tyre is designed to carry more load than its seemingly identical P-metric sibling. That additional load-carrying capacity is closely linked to the tyre’s ability to safely contain higher inflation pressures.

As we’ve explained in previous tyre articles, the air inside the tyre does much of the heavy lifting. The tyre is essentially the vessel containing that air. Make the vessel stronger, and it can safely contain more pressure and support more weight.

Caption: The General Grabber AT3 is a popular all-terrain in South Africa, making it ideal for our LT versus P-Metric comparison.

Using our General Grabber AT3s as an example, the LT version has a maximum load of 1 450 kg at 5.5 bar, while the P-metric version is rated for 1 120 kg at 3.5 bar.

Of course, these maximum figures aren’t representative of how most of us use our tyres off-road. We’re more likely to reduce pressures for improved comfort, traction, and reduced impact damage.

This is where the LT tyre’s stronger construction becomes particularly relevant.

Caption: The tyre’s sidewall tells you exactly how much weight it can carry and, consequently, the maximum pressure it can handle.

HEAT

Heat is one of a tyre’s greatest enemies.

As a tyre deflects, the rubber and casing flex, generating heat. Add a heavy vehicle, a heavy load, low tyre pressures, and a corrugated road, and you have a recipe for significant tyre stress.

A more robustly constructed LT tyre is designed to cope with this punishment better than a P-metric tyre. Its stiffer construction generally means less deflection under load, helping it better manage the heat generated when operating at reduced pressures.

And when you’re hundreds of kilometres from the nearest tyre shop, that additional margin of durability can be worth considerably more than the difference in purchase price.

DEFLATION

If you ever want proof of just how widely misunderstood LT versus P-metric tyres are, look at how many publications, websites, and YouTube channels conduct all-terrain tyre tests without mentioning whether the tyres are LT or P-metric.

It’s a glaring omission.

It’s like comparing a RAV4 with a Land Cruiser but focusing on criteria like economy, manoeuvrability, and comfort. Of course, the RAV4 is likely to come out looking like the better vehicle.

To make matters worse, testers will often compare an LT all-terrain tyre with a P-metric all-terrain tyre at the same inflation pressure.

That methodology can be misleading because the two tyres won’t necessarily behave the same way at the same pressure.

Coming back to our two test tyres, we measured the footprint of both General Grabber AT3s at various pressures. As you can see in the images below, the LT consistently produces a shorter footprint than the P-metric at the same pressure – with the difference varying from approximately 7% to 8%.

If you tested these two tyres in sand at exactly the same pressure, the LT could therefore appear to perform significantly worse than the P-metric.

But is that a fair comparison?

The chosen pressure is somewhat arbitrary. If the objective is to compare the tyres’ ability to produce traction, shouldn’t the test be conducted at the same footprint length rather than simply the same pressure?

The point is that an LT tyre’s stiffer construction means it won’t deform and spread in the same way as a P-metric tyre at a given pressure.

That isn’t necessarily a disadvantage. It simply means the two tyres require different pressures across different applications.

This is one reason why a softer, more pliant P-metric tyre can be attractive to an off-roader who drives a relatively lightweight vehicle almost exclusively in sand. It can produce a larger footprint at a given pressure, while also being lighter, more comfortable, and cheaper to replace.

For a heavily-loaded touring 4×4 that spends its time dealing with corrugations and rocky tracks, the priorities can be very different.

THE DEALER DEBACLE

The decision between LT and P-metric really isn’t that complicated. If you frequently drive off-road, heavily load your 4×4, travel to remote places, and regularly reduce your tyre pressures, an LT tyre will generally be the more appropriate choice.

The problem is that not every tyre dealer understands this distinction.

There can be a disconnect between what a tyre salesperson thinks the customer wants — the cheapest possible price — and what the customer actually needs: the right tyre for their application.

There are several reasons for this. Tyre sales staff may be incentivised by sales volumes, staff turnover can be high, and many tyre dealers primarily deal with passenger vehicles rather than dedicated off-road applications.

Caption: While it makes sense to shop around for the best possible tyre deal, it makes even more sense to build a relationship with a tyre dealer who understands the demands of off-road applications — and preferably, one who’s a 4×4 enthusiast himself. Photo credit: Roam Overlanding.

That last point is worth highlighting. Much of the misinformation people receive about tyres could be avoided if they bought from a dealer who specialises in off-road tyres — or, better yet, one whose owner or staff are 4×4 enthusiasts themselves.

Ultimately, however, the responsibility still rests with you, the buyer, to understand what you’re buying.

Because if two tyres look identical but one costs considerably more, the cheaper tyre isn’t necessarily the bargain you think it is.

A PERSONAL ACCOUNT

Ed’s Note: Over the years, I’ve lost a fair number of tyres due to sidewall damage. But, interestingly, I’ve never lost an LT tyre.

And, come to think of it, I’ve also never lost a P-metric tyre when I’ve kept that tyre at the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended pressure.

Almost every tyre I’ve lost to sidewall damage has been a P-metric that I deflated.

It seems I’m a slow learner. I probably should have spotted the trend sooner and stopped deflating P-metric tyres altogether. But when you’re 20 km down a badly-corrugated road, the temptation to “just let out a wee bit of air” to make the ride more bearable eventually creeps in.

Then, before you know it, you’re listening to the all-too-familiar sound of air rushing out of a tyre.

That doesn’t mean P-metric tyres are bad. If you primarily stick to gravel roads, rarely deflate, and seldom carry a heavy load, a P-metric tyre will probably serve you perfectly well.

For everyone else, an LT should be at the top of your shopping list.

Caption: I once travelled through Mozambique’s Limpopo National Park in a stock-standard Nissan Patrol fitted with factory P-metric tyres. Eventually, I ran out of tyre plugs and had to borrow some from others in our convoy. It was my first real-world lesson in how the wrong tyre, in the wrong application, can completely dominate a trip.

PRICE

There are no market-related rules governing how LT and P-metric tyres should differ in price, and publishing specific prices here could quickly make this story inaccurate. However, you can expect to see price differences of anywhere from 30% to 50% between two seemingly identical all-terrain tyres.

WHICH ONE SHOULD YOU BUY?

P-METRIC:

Mostly road driving

Lightly loaded

Occasional gravel/off-road

Comfort and fuel economy priorities

Lightweight vehicle

Rarely deflates

LT:

Heavily accessorised vehicle

Regularly carries camping/touring loads

Frequent off-road use

Regularly deflates tyres

Corrugations and rocky terrain

Long-distance/remote travel

Have something to add? We’d love to hear from you. Contact us here.

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The post The No. 1 mistake off-roaders make when choosing an all-terrain tyre appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Advertorial: Why every motorist needs a set of snow chains

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A surprising number of South Africans believe that 4x4s and snow are a match made in heaven.

They’re not.

Every winter, motorists head for snow-covered mountain passes expecting their 4x4s to handle whatever nature throws at them. After all, if a vehicle can conquer mud, sand and rocky trails, surely a little snow won’t be a problem.

The reality is very different.

When it comes to snow and ice, traction — not drivetrain configuration or the latest off-road tyre — is what matters most. A 4WD system may help a vehicle move forward, but it does little to help when you’re trying to stop or steer on a slippery surface. Without adequate grip, even the most capable 4×4 can become little more than a passenger on its own journey.

That’s a particular concern in South Africa, where snow is relatively rare and most drivers have little experience dealing with icy roads. Add steep mountain passes, hidden obstacles, cambered sections and patches of black ice to the equation, and it’s easy to see how a scenic snow trip can quickly become a dangerous situation.

Caption: The difference between getting stuck and getting home. On snow and ice, even the most capable 4×4 can lose traction. Fitted with RUD snow chains, however, it becomes an effective recovery vehicle capable of helping others when conditions deteriorate.

Fortunately, there is a simple way to dramatically improve traction, steering and braking performance in slippery conditions: snow chains.

However, although they’re commonly referred to as “snow chains”, the term doesn’t tell the full story. Modern traction chains are designed to improve grip on a wide variety of slippery surfaces, including snow, ice, mud, wet gravel and loose off-camber roads. Their ability to generate mechanical grip makes them just as useful on muddy mountain tracks or gravel passes as they are on snow-covered roads.

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NOT ALL SNOW CHAINS ARE CREATED EQUAL

Broadly speaking, there are two common styles of snow chain: the traditional ladder pattern and the more advanced diamond pattern.

The ladder-type design uses straight cross chains running across the tyre and is generally manufactured from round welded chain. While relatively simple and widely available, it only provides grip when each cross chain contacts the ground, meaning traction comes and goes as the wheel rotates.

What’s more, a major flaw in ladder chains is that, because the cross chains are not continuously tensioned, they tend to move around the tyre, limiting travel speeds to around 5 km/h in many applications.

Diamond-pattern chains work differently…

Because the chain forms a continuous network around the tyre, there’s constant tension across the entire assembly and a greater number of contact points with the ground.

Thanks to the diamond layout, there is always chain in contact with the surface, providing more consistent traction for accelerating, steering and braking, particularly on ice where maintaining continuous grip is critical.

This is one reason why simply copying the appearance of a traditional ladder chain or making homemade chains rarely delivers the same performance.

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DETAILS MAKE A DIFFERENCE

The design of the chain itself also plays a significant role in how well it performs.

Quality traction chains are typically manufactured from case-hardened steel, creating a hard, wear-resistant outer surface while retaining a tougher, slightly more flexible core. This allows the chain to withstand repeated impacts without becoming brittle.

Another feature found on premium chains is the use of square-profile links rather than conventional round links. The sharp edges of the square profile effectively bite into snow, ice and loose surfaces, while the increased contact area provides additional grip.

Keeping the overall chain profile compact is equally important. Fitting chains increases the tyre’s overall diameter, so minimising chain thickness helps maintain body and suspension clearance, particularly when steering is on full lock.

Drivers should always consult the chain’s product manual for the correct body-to-tyre clearance requirements and recommendations.

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BUILT FOR CHANGING CONDITIONS

One of the biggest misconceptions about traction chains is that they can only be used on snow.

In reality, modern traction chains can safely be driven on hard surfaces such as tar when necessary, allowing drivers to transition between snow, gravel and sealed roads without constantly stopping to remove and refit them. That can be particularly useful on mountain passes where road conditions often change over relatively short distances.

While chains can be driven on tar and other hard surfaces, they will naturally wear faster the higher the vehicle’s speed. As a general rule, reducing speed on hard surfaces will significantly extend chain life.

Caption: Snow chains aren’t just for vehicles. RUD’s specially designed Shoe Chains provide sure-footed grip and added confidence when walking on snow and ice.

On loose gravel, mud and similar surfaces, quality chains can comfortably handle speeds of around 30-40 km/h while still providing excellent traction.

On snow, many drivers report that the chains are barely noticeable. On tar, they produce a firmer, bumpier ride, but one that remains manageable over moderate distances.

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THE IMPORTANCE OF FAST FITMENT

Weather can change quickly in the mountains, which is why ease of installation matters.

A quality diamond-pattern traction chain can typically be fitted in around 90 seconds per wheel. By comparison, traditional ladder chains can often take between ten and fifteen minutes to install, depending on the terrain and conditions.

Caption: When seconds count.
RUD’s diamond-pattern chains can typically be fitted in around 90 seconds per wheel, while traditional ladder chains can take up to 10 to 15 minutes to install.

That difference becomes significant when you’re standing roadside in freezing temperatures or during a snowstorm. Perhaps more importantly, diamond-pattern chains can usually be fitted after you’ve already encountered slippery conditions rather than having to anticipate exactly where they’ll be needed.

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HOW MANY CHAINS DO YOU NEED?

The correct number of chains depends on the vehicle.

At a minimum, front-wheel-drive vehicles should have chains fitted to the front axle, where both steering and drive take place.

Rear-wheel-drive vehicles should ideally have chains fitted to both the front and rear axles. This improves traction while also maintaining steering control.

Caption: Unlike driving on sand, RUD chains are designed to be used with tyres inflated to their recommended road pressure for optimum performance and safety. They’re equally effective on loose surfaces such as gravel and mud, and can also be driven over short stretches of tar without needing to be removed.

The same principle applies to all-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive vehicles. Although fitting one pair will significantly improve traction, fitting chains to both axles provides the greatest improvement in braking, steering and overall vehicle stability.

If you’re towing a trailer, fitting chains to both axles becomes even more important. Chains fitted only to the front axle can leave the rear of the vehicle vulnerable to being pushed sideways by the trailer on slippery descents.

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A FEW PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS

Unlike driving on sand, tyre pressures should not be reduced when using traction chains. Tyres should remain at their recommended operating pressure to ensure the chains fit and perform correctly.

Drivers should also remember that fitting chains slightly increases the overall diameter of the wheel assembly. Before driving, it’s worth checking that adequate clearance exists between the chains, suspension and bodywork, particularly when steering is at full lock.

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MORE THAN JUST A SNOW ACCESSORY

For many South Africans, traction chains are something that only comes out when snow falls.

In reality, they’re an all-season recovery and safety tool capable of transforming vehicle control on a wide range of loose surfaces and slippery off-camber terrain.

Whether you’re heading to the Drakensberg in winter, exploring muddy back roads after heavy rain in the Tankwa, or tackling loose gravel mountain passes, traction chains provide something no four-wheel-drive system can generate on its own: grip.

For those who regularly venture into challenging conditions, that extra grip can make the difference between reaching your destination safely or becoming stranded.

Quality traction chains are available in sizes to suit everything from passenger vehicles to heavy-duty and mining applications, with prices typically ranging from around R4,000 to R7,000 depending on tyre size — considerably less than the cost of many winches or premium recovery boards.

Replacement parts are also readily available, allowing individual components to be serviced rather than replacing an entire chain set.

For more information on RUD’s high-quality, diamond-pattern snow chains, or to obtain a no-obligation quotation, contact SecureTech:

Tel: 0861 040 506 or (011) 792 5226

Email: info@snowchains.co.za

Web: www.snowchains.co.za

The post TRACTION SATISFACTION appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Authored by Grant Spolander and Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF)

Ed’s note: The feature below was published in the July/August 2025 issue of 4WD Revolution. Click here to receive more features like this delivered to your mailbox.

ARE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS DELIBERATELY AVOIDING THE DIRTY DIESEL PROBLEM?

I recall reading a story many years ago about how much it would cost to build a Fiat Uno from the parts catalogue; I think it totalled almost R1 million, at a time when the vehicle retailed for around R50k. The article wasn’t an attack on Fiat specifically, but rather illustrated that the automotive industry isn’t shy about charging hefty margins on spare parts.

But overpriced parts aren’t exactly groundbreaking news, nor are they evidence of some sinister conspiracy. But high parts prices are arguably one of the main reasons why so many people ditch their vehicles as soon as the warranty expires. The sad truth is that many of us choose to keep up with automotive debt (including the infamous balloon payment) rather than face the threat of costly repairs and spare parts.

But what if vehicle manufacturers weren’t taking steps to address a known issue in South Africa, an issue which often results in expensive repairs and subsequent parts sales? A cynical person might conclude that their failure to act was influenced by a profit motive. I don’t know. You should make up your own mind on this one.

WHY DIRTY DIESEL IS A PROBLEM

The instructions they gave me were simple: “Go to your nearest packaging supply store and buy five glass jars with sealable lids. Place the jars in your dishwasher on a hot wash. Once the drying cycle is complete and the jars are bone dry, quickly put on the lids to prevent contaminants from entering the jars. Then, visit five different fuel stations in your area (Cape Town), gather a diesel sample from each, and send the samples to our lab in JHB. When you’re next in Gauteng, come to our offices and together we’ll check the diesel quality under a microscope.”

I was chatting to Dean Puntis from Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF), and the above instructions formed part of my homework for this story. I’ve been wanting to write a feature on diesel filtration for some time, and after doing some desk research, I discovered that many leads led to UDF.

Dean wanted me to see, first hand, what the diesel quality was like in my area. I was too intrigued to turn down the offer. However, diesel quality is only part of the story…

It turns out that most modern engine manufacturers recommend a diesel filter spec of between 3 and 5 microns, whereas injector manufacturers stipulate that dirt particles should be removed down to 1 to 3 microns. Vehicle manufacturers don’t accept warranty claims stemming from dirty fuel. So, if your brand-new engine goes “pop” due to dirty diesel (and they can prove it), you’re largely on your own.

But it’s the variance between what the vehicle manufacturer recommends and what the injector manufacturer recommends that’s potentially damaging your engine. Here’s how…

POOR ATOMISATION

In modern diesel engines, fuel enters the cylinder under extremely high pressure and is atomised by the injectors into a fine mist. Proper atomisation ensures that all the available diesel is burnt, maximising energy extraction and efficiency.

But if atomisation isn’t optimal and overfueling occurs, the fuel burns during both the downward and upward strokes of the piston, raising combustion and exhaust-gas temperatures. This additional heat (which the engine isn’t designed for) not only passes through the turbocharger (causing oil breakdown and bearing failure), but can also melt pistons and cause cylinder head damage, depending on the extent of the overfueling.

“Engines and Turbochargers don’t fail for no reason, nor do injectors. There’s a reason behind the failure, and when we look closer, we find that 85 to 90% of all diesel engine failures are due to poor fuel quality, either in the form of dirt particles, water contamination, and/or viscosity” – UDF

THE DANGERS OF OVERFUELING

Even the most microscopic contaminants can disrupt the injector’s performance and the atomisation process by forming larger globules that are more difficult to atomise into a fine mist.

What’s more, contaminants can affect the injector’s performance by causing restrictions in the piston/plunger area or by wearing the delivery holes into an oval shape. As a result, instead of the diesel entering the cylinder as a fine mist, it arrives more like a jet stream or in tiny goblets. This exacerbates the problem, resulting in more unburnt fuel and higher exhaust-gas temperatures.

Unburnt diesel can pool on top of the piston, and when ignited, can result in significant carbon deposits. These deposits trap combustion heat instead of allowing it to escape through the exhaust.

Overfueling can also lead to varnishing or “washing” of the cylinder walls, which compromises the performance of the upper piston rings and may cause diesel to leak past the pistons into the sump. This process of deterioration doesn’t take months or years, either; it can occur in just a few days, depending on the severity of the overfueling.

And, because diesel and engine oil blend seamlessly together without separating, the diesel interferes with the engine oil’s performance. This leads to changes in viscosity and a decrease in the efficacy of the oil’s additives, particularly boron, which acts as a friction modifier to prevent metal-to-metal wear.

“We generally advise people to check their engine oil quality and engine oil levels regularly, especially if they’re travelling to remote areas where poor-quality diesel is a common issue. If you notice that your oil levels are rising on the dipstick or the oil is becoming thinner, it’s quite likely that your diesel is mixing with your engine oil” – UDF

WEAR CHECK

Much like blood tests can unveil underlying health problems long before you’re aware of symptoms, oil analysis can tell you everything you need to know about your 4×4’s engine health.

Engine oils contain several additives and performance markers which quickly become unbalanced if something is wrong. The most widely known oil analysis is called ‘Wear Check’, and it typically costs around R250 per test.

The information it provides is invaluable, as it immediately tells you how the oil is performing, what breakdown is occurring, the number of carbon deposits, and the wear rate on the engine.

The team at UDF uses Wear Check reports to assess the performance of their products and to extend service intervals for their clients. The principle is straightforward: the more contaminants you remove from the diesel, the better the atomisation, leading to a cleaner burn and, consequently, cleaner engine oil.

Filtering diesel to 1 micron is not a commonly recognised concept among 4×4 owners, even though it aligns with recommendations from injector manufacturers. However, the practice offers a significant financial incentive within the mining sector.

“Most major earth-moving companies in South Africa, as well as some in Australia, are utilising Ultrafine Depth Filters. One of our clients has extended their oil change intervals from every 250 hours to every 1 000+ hours. To give you an idea, an ore-moving truck requires anywhere from 120 to 185 litres of synthetic oil. Now consider a fleet of 100 such trucks, all able to extend their oil change intervals fourfold, along with the time and costs associated with oil change services; the savings amount to millions. It’s essential to note that they continually monitor oil quality to ensure the filters are functioning effectively. We’ve only had one earth-moving equipment company request the removal of our filters because they felt it was impacting their sales of replacement engine parts. Of course, these companies go beyond what the average 4×4 owner might do by incorporating engine oil bypass filtration, which further removes contaminants from the oil. But by filtering diesel to an ultrafine level, 4×4 owners can extend their oil change intervals and save a significant amount of money.” – UDF

UNDER THE MICROSCOPE

Back at the lab, I’m finally examining my homework under the microscope, feeling anxious that I might have unknowingly filled my tank with poor-quality diesel. Fortunately, most of the fuel stations I regularly visit have a relatively good reputation. One station is slightly worse than the others, but none of them is terrible. The station closest to my house looks immaculate, most likely due to the recent installation of new underground tanks.

Interestingly, busy fuel stations that constantly replenish their stocks tend to provide cleaner diesel. On the other hand, fuel stations in remote areas with tanks that have been underground or hanging in the air for decades are likely to be less reliable.

Either way, the microscope I’m looking through picks up the tiniest detail, and in the case of diesel, it’s not the big stuff you have to worry about. Most factory-fitted diesel filters easily capture large particles. It’s the quantity of the really fine stuff – usually silica – that does all the damage to your injectors.

I initially thought the diesel samples I brought from the coast would be worse than the samples collected by UDF around Johannesburg. However, when I shared this opinion with the lab technicians at UDF, they couldn’t help but laugh. “No, no, no,” they said. “Many of the samples we test around Johannesburg are horrendous!”

There are dozens of sample patches all over the UDF lab, some cleaner than others, but a number of them look like a dusty sunset over an African plain.

WHY STANDARD FILTERS AREN’T ENOUGH

Most factory-fitted filters face a challenging balancing act. They must effectively remove contaminants while allowing sufficient flow without becoming clogged before the required service intervals. For this reason, an Ultrafine filter cannot serve as the primary filter for a vehicle, as it will quickly become clogged with contaminants, restricting fuel flow.

Therefore, any filtration system that filters down to one micron should be installed in line AFTER the factory-fitted unit.

Standard diesel filters typically feature a 2-ply pleated or semi-rapped design that captures contaminants between the folds of the paper. However, what you can’t see is that smaller contaminants are captured by tiny microfibers that are barely visible to the naked eye.

Unfortunately, these microfibers are quite fragile. When exposed to vibrations, pulsation, bumps, or impacts, they tend to break off, allowing contaminants to pass through. “Watch this,” Dean says, tapping the fuel filter with his knuckle while diesel flows through their bench-test filtration machine.

Although the standard filter appears to have removed some of the ultra-fine contaminants they intentionally add to the test fuel, the moment Dean taps the filter housing, large debris is immediately visible in the output jar. As someone who has made his career out of driving 4x4s down bumpy trails, you can imagine that this revelation came as quite a shock.

“Interestingly, an old filter often does a better job of removing contaminants than a new one because the accumulated debris helps trap even more pollutants. However, the downside is that if the filter is jolted or shaken – such as when hitting a pothole or driving over corrugations – the microfibers between the pleats can break off and release the contaminants they’ve collected” – UDF

WHERE DOES DIRTY DIESEL COME FROM?

So, where do all these contaminants come from? The engineers at UDF explain, “If you’re a fuel wholesaler, the general rule is that every time you move fuel, you filter fuel. However, the reality in South Africa is quite different. Much of the supply chain and fuel transport systems are old and unfiltered.”

Interestingly, the breather pipes you see at most fuel stations have a 180-degree bend at the top to prevent dirt from entering the tanks. That’s the only safeguard – just a bend. Apart from that, there is no filtering on the breather pipes. As temperature fluctuations occur, diesel expands and contracts, which draws air into the storage tank through the breather pipe. Over time, the inhaled debris accumulates at the bottom of the tank.

The same situation applies to most vehicles, which are equipped with fuel tank breather pipes. However, these pipes often lack filters at the end of them, too. You might be wondering about the forecourt pumps that deliver the fuel to your 4×4. While the pumps do have their own filtration systems, they typically consist of 10 to 20 micron spin-on type paper filters – similar to what’s found in most cars.

Some fuel stations do see the benefits of ultrafine filtration, particularly those that supply diesel to large fleet-based companies. Consider the potential backlash if a courier company experiences multiple engine failures traced back to a single fuel source. Not only could the supplier risk losing a significant contract, but they may also be held liable for damages.

WHAT NOW?

Although aftermarket add-on diesel filters are pretty commonplace amongst off-road enthusiasts, they’re generally the type of units designed to remove water or moisture from the diesel. While this is vitally important to prevent injector-tip failure, most factory-fitted water separators work quite well.

“Although we offer aftermarket water separators, the truth is that most standard water separators are usually quite effective. The issue lies not with the separator itself but with the fact that people don’t drain the water trap often enough. We typically recommend bleeding the separator at least once a month. If this is not done, the water level can rise high enough that it gets sucked back into the fuel line and enters the fuel system, causing super-heated steam in the injector tips” – UDF

What’s truly remarkable about this topic is that although it’s well known that diesel quality in South Africa isn’t particularly good, and there have been multiple scandals involving paraffin being added to diesel to bump up profit margins – often at the expense of your engine’s longevity, very few people are aware of diesel filtration as it relates to atomisation, oil degradation, fuel economy, emissions, performance, and engine longevity.

With that in mind, I asked the UDF team, “How many 4×4 fitment shops are reselling these filters?” They replied, “In the Johannesburg area, a few. In the Cape Town area, maybe one or two.” It’s surprising because the installation process seems relatively straightforward, and the upfront cost isn’t too bad. Less than a tenth of what an injector replacement would cost you.

This raises an important question: If ultrafine filtration is affordable, readily available, easy to install, and proven to work in the cost-driven mining sector, why aren’t vehicle manufacturers including it as a factory option? It’s an especially relevant question considering the numerous scandals surrounding diesel quality in South Africa.

I pose the same question to Dean, who replies, “In their defence, the vehicle manufacturers aren’t to blame for South Africa’s poor diesel quality. And the same wear and tear happens in overseas markets, but it just happens a whole lot faster in SA due to our diesel. As for why they don’t fit finer filters to combat the issue? I suppose that could relate to the service plan and the fact that an ultrafine filter may increase the number of service intervals needed per year just to replace the diesel filter. All in all, it’s a uniquely South African problem. And we’re small fish in a big global pond”.

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The post HOW DIRTY DIESEL IS DESTROYING YOUR ENGINE appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Arguably one of the most remote wilderness areas in Southern Africa, the great Makgadikgadi Pans of Botswana are the largest salt pans in the world!

Kingsley Holgate and his son Ross almost lost their lives trying to circumnavigate these pans on wind yachts. So, don’t be fooled. As beautiful as they are, they are also dangerous.

Having visited the Makgadikgadi numerous times, I’ve learned one or two things about driving on these deceptive pans. If you’re headed there anytime soon, here are some self-drive tips to help you along the way.

Solo – NEVER venture onto the pans alone!

Season – Do not attempt to cross the pans in the “wet season” unless you’re with an experienced guide.

Tyres – Deflate your tyres BEFORE entering the pans. Waiting to get stuck is not the answer.

Speed – Try maintaining a constant speed of around 50 – 60 km/h. You want your momentum to be enough to get you through the wet patches.

Tracks – When driving in convoy, watch the tracks in front of you. If you see the crust is broken and shows signs of wet ground, avoid the leading vehicle’s tracks.

Edge – If the overall surface looks wet, don’t try to cut across the pans – this is where many people get stuck. Stick to what is known as the “pans edge,” which is usually drier and firmer. Having said that, still be alert!

Snatch – If you are stuck, stay calm and don’t spin your tyres – that will only worsen things. Assess the situation and remember that a traditional “snatch” recovery will likely not work, as the recovery vehicle will probably also get bogged.

Manpower – Experience has taught me the best way to free yourself is to dig soil away from the front of the tyres, and then use manpower in the form of friends pushing you free. Recovery tracks will definitely help. However, you must get them under the tyres before attempting the recovery.

Mud – Once you’re off the pans, remember to clear your rims of mud. You might think you have a tyre balance issue if you don’t!

Salt – The mud of the Makgadikgadi Pans is extremely salty and can cause corrosion. Clean mud off your vehicle’s sensors with a high- pressure cleaner as soon as possible.

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Answer supplied by National Luna.

Click here to view National Luna’s range of solar-ready products.

To answer this question you first need to know:

• How much energy are you using on a daily basis?
• How much time do you have to replace it?

WHAT SIZE SOLAR PANEL FOR CAMPING?

Naturally, your 12V camping fridge plays a big role in your energy use over a 24-hour period. However, calculating that power consumption can be difficult when there are so many variables at play, including: The ambient operating temperature, the time of the day, how often you open and close your fridge, and of course, your preferred fridge / freezer temperature.

Typically speaking, a premium 12V camping fridge may use between 30Ah and 45Ah over a 24-hour period. Depending on daylight conditions, as well as your geographic location, most campsites have anywhere between 2- and 7-hours of usable solar energy.

Considering that an 85W panel produces roughly 5 amps per hour in ideal conditions, you would need at least 7-hours to replenish 35 amps.

Of course, the above calculation is radically simplified and based on minimum solar requirements as per: fridge size, performance, operating conditions, and how often you’re opening and closing the fridge. What’s more, the calculations don’t account for non-ideal conditions such as:

• Dew / Dust on your solar panel
• Partly cloudy weather
• High ambient temperatures and additional strain on your fridge
• How many appliances you’re powering, and…
• The fact that you need to power your fridge at the same time that you’re recharging your auxiliary battery

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MINIMUM PANEL SIZE

This is why it’s best to upsize the panel to a 120W / 150W unit if you’re thinking in terms of minimum requirements.

What’s more, upsizing your panel size will help to produce enough energy to power additional camping accessories such as LED lighting, and/or a cellphone charger. In some cases, many campers may even opt for a 200W or 250W panel for an additional margin.

However, bear in mind that your regulator would need to be rated to this capacity, and that such a panel may be impractically large in the case of non-flexible units.

ENERGY SAVING TIPS FOR CAMPING

Once you start calculating your energy consumption, it becomes clear that optimising your energy usage is far more practical than buying the biggest panel that will fit in/on your vehicle.

What’s more, some campers make use of a 220V inverter to power their camera and/or laptop chargers, without realising that the inverter itself is drawing significant energy. If possible, it’s generally best to substitute your 220V camera / laptop charger with 12V USB alternative. This alone can eliminate the need for an inverter and cut your energy use in half.

On that note, it would be wise to increase your solar power to a 200W panel if you’re forced to use an inverter, and, to make use of a MPPT solar regulator as opposed to a PWM unit.

Naturally, other energy cutbacks can be made in the form of efficient LED lighting, as well as opting for a fridge / freezer with high-quality insulation, compressor performance, and a correctly sized power cable. Other energy saving tips include…

• Always keep your camping fridge / freezer’s latches closed to ensure optimum seal performance.
• Never pack items around the fridge’s ventilation. Doing so will raise the operating temperature and use more battery power.
• Set your camping fridge / freezer’s temperature to a low setting while driving, then adjust the temperature to a more economical setting once you arrive at camp.
• Avoid parking your vehicle directly in sunlight.
• Keep your camping fridge as full as possible.

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