ED’S COLUMN: ACCEPTING THE GOOD WITH THE BAD

The chances of a trip going exactly according to plan are pretty slim. But is that such a bad thing? Grant explores how things going wrong may actually be the answer to a more fulfilled trip. READ MORE

BUYER’S GUIDE: LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 TD5

While it’s not uncommon to see a Defender selling for R450k, a Disco 2 with the same engine, similar mileage, and the same year model, is doing well to get over R100k. Is the Disco inherently flawed, or is this a massive buying opportunity? This in-depth buyer’s guide covering all the D2’s foibles will help you decide. READ MORE

CHAPTER 5: MOROCCO

We continue our series with Moe and Valerie as they prepare to exit Morocco and enter Africa… “proper”. READ MORE

HOW TO PREPARE FOR YOUR FIRST NAMIBIAN HOLIDAY – WITHOUT THE OVERKILL

Last month we published an article stating that Namibia is a great place to start your first cross-border 4×4 trip. In this feature, we cover what’s needed – and more importantly – what isn’t for a successful Namibian first trip. READ MORE

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The post VOLUME 14 appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

One of the most overlooked vehicles in the overland carpark has to be the Land Rover Discovery 2. Arguably every bit as good – and some might say, better – than its older brother, the Defender, the Disco 2 seems to get very little attention in the second-hand market.

So, while it’s not uncommon to see a Defender selling for R450k, a Disco 2 with the same engine, similar mileage, and the same year model, is doing well to get over R100k.

If you’re in the market for a low-cost, highly capable overlander, there are two ways to view this value disparity. The first is to assume that the Disco 2 has some inherent flaw which makes it a risky buy. The second – if you’re someone who values data over sentiment – is to see it as a massive buying opportunity.

If you’re keen to try the overlanding scene, this is a way to get in without having to sell off your Capitec shares. If you do decide to bail and have to sell, you might even net neutral. 

With that in mind, we asked Darron Misplon – a self-confessed Disco 2 enthusiast – to highlight the ins and outs of D2 ownership, as well as what to look for when buying one.

If you recognise Darron’s name, it’s because he previously wrote for us about why he wouldn’t’ buy a Discovery 3 or 4, largely due to their crank-shaft issues.

A brief introduction

The Discovery 2 was launched in 1999 as a development of the Discovery 1, which was Land Rover’s successful attempt to fill the gap between the more basic Defender and the prestigious (and pricey) Range Rover.

The Discovery 2 was a completely new vehicle, with only the rear door carried over. The R380 manual gearbox and LT230 transfer case were retained, while a ZF automatic gearbox was also available.

Two engines were offered: the “Storm” Td5 and the “Thor” 4.0-litre V8, the latter being a derivative of the original 3.5-litre Buick V8 that Land Rover bought the rights to in the early 60s.

South Africa received three model designations: GS, XS, and ES. The ES was the full-house version, with features including ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement), electric sunroofs, leather, climate control, cruise control, a Harman Kardon sound system, and self-levelling air suspension.

Ironically, a basic GS isn’t necessarily a bad choice as there is simply less to go wrong.

Most Discovery 2s sold in South Africa were automatics, reflecting the vehicle’s positioning as a premium vehicle. The ZF boxes are fairly reliable if serviced regularly and not abused, although the XYZ switch is a known weak point. This is a selector position switch which is mounted on the side of the gearbox, it tells the ECU and dashboard which gear has been selected.

The Discovery 2 was never particularly brilliant at any one thing, but it has proved to be a brilliant all-rounder: comfortable, economical (in Td5 guise), sufficiently powerful, spacious, and very capable off-road thanks to a centre diff-lock that works in conjunction with traction control.

This guide focuses mainly on the Td5, although some of the issues mentioned apply to the V8 as well.

ECU and injector harness

Early engines had the MSB ECU which was ‘locked’ so it couldn’t be mapped. But most vehicles will have the later NNN ECU. These can be mapped, and if you suspect it has been, you need to find out what map was installed and who did it.

Some aggressive maps produce glorious power but lousy fuel consumption. Remember that the turbo diesel is already a stressed engine, so there is little sense in stressing it further with a wild map. While you’re there, pull out both electrical plugs connected to the engine ECU and check for oil.

These plugs are connected directly to the diesel injectors inside the cylinder head, and the wiring harness is known to suffer from oil contamination through osmosis. The plugs can be cleaned with Q20 or similar, but replacing the injector wiring harness is preferable.

Oil pump bolt

This affected the earlier models in particular, but it is worth checking. The factory omitted Loctite from some oil-pump bolts, and this sees them work loose. The result can be an instant drop in oil pressure followed by a seized engine. If you’re buying an early Td5, drop the sump, remove the bolt, apply Loctite, and sleep peacefully.

Turbocharger

The Garrett turbochargers used on the Td5 are generally very reliable. Check its condition by removing the air-filter hose from the turbo and look for excess oil, this may indicate worn oil seals. Also check for sideways play in the turbo spindle. If there is excessive play, you could be looking at a replacement or rebuild, so budget accordingly.

MAF sensor

The MAF sensor is crucial to the ECU operating correctly. On a test drive, watch for a few seconds of hesitation or a lack of power when pulling away. This can indicate that the MAF isn’t operating within the correct parameters. The ECU may subsequently default to its factory settings, allowing you to drive normally again. An OBD scan can help confirm a faulty MAF. If it needs replacing, use an original part.

Fit an early-warning system

A Black Box or other early-warning system could save your engine. If the Discovery you’re looking at already has one, say a prayer of thanks. A budget solution is a float with an audible alarm fitted to the header tank. Cheap, but it could save a lot of tears.

Exhaust manifold

Listen for a “birdie” whistling from the exhaust manifold. A common Td5 problem is a warped exhaust manifold that begins blowing gases. It will need to be removed, skimmed, and refitted using new gaskets and bolts. Be aware that an exhaust manifold bolt can break during removal. Professional help is advisable here; you don’t want to damage the cylinder head.

Cylinder head

If the cylinder head requires replacement, consider an AMC replacement. This is an improved design and worth the money. Early cylinder heads were located on the block using plastic dowels, while later units used steel dowels. The plastic dowels could allow the head to shift, compromising the head gasket.

Cooling system and oil cooler

Check the coolant header tank. If it contains only water, which will probably be brown by now, walk away from the deal. The Td5 has an internal oil cooler, and using the incorrect coolant mix can compromise it. An oil cooler leak can become an expensive exercise if the engine isn’t shut down immediately.

If you buy a vehicle and are unsure of the oil cooler’s history, save some Randelas and have the unit replaced as soon as possible.

Transmission and drivetrain

Manual gearbox and dual-mass flywheel: The Discovery 2 manual uses the R380 gearbox and a dual-mass flywheel (DMF). When test driving, listen for rattling at idle or during pull-off. This may indicate a worn DMF. Don’t be tempted to fit a solid flywheel simply because it is cheaper and the Defender uses one. You will be disappointed.

If towing with a manual, use 4^th gear, which has a 1:1 ratio. I’ve seen too many 5^th gears ripped from their housings in R380 gearboxes because people insisted on using this gear to tow with.

Automatic gearbox

The ZF automatic is generally reliable if it has been serviced regularly and not abused. Its Achilles heel is the XYZ switch previously mentioned, which can occasionally cause problems.

Prop shafts

Check both prop shafts carefully. The rear prop shaft has a rubber coupling. Look for cracks. It isn’t particularly expensive or difficult to replace. The front prop shaft has a universal joint – twist the prop by hand and listen for a “click”. If you hear one, the prop may need to be reconditioned. Budget accordingly.

Td5 fuelling and boost

Fuel pump: Turn the ignition on and listen carefully around the fuel tank. A heavy whining noise from the fuel pump can indicate that it is on its last legs.

The good news is that there is an access hatch in the load bay area, making pump replacement relatively straightforward. Be careful with the plastic couplings, as they break easily. Take note of the automated bleed cycle, this is activated by depressing the accelerator pedal five times with the ignition on.

EGR

Check whether the EGR has been removed. There is a kit available for this, allowing the Td5 to breathe fresh air. South Africa does not have to follow EU emission laws.

Waste Gate

Check that the waste-gate arm moves freely. It can carbon up, preventing the waste gate from dumping excess pressure. The ECU will then intervene and momentarily cut the fuel supply, resulting in the familiar “hobby-horse” motion while driving.

The Discovery’s waste gate uses electronic control. If this system is faulty, it can be removed and reverted to the standard Defender system, where one vacuum hose is connected to the air-filter pipe.

Suspension and off-road systems

The self-levelling rear air suspension in the Discovery 2 is a brilliant feature, so don’t be tempted to replace the airbags with coils simply because those seem simpler. The compressor can over-cycle if there is a leak in the airbags, causing it to eventually burn out. The compressor can be reconditioned, and the airbags are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace.

ACE

The ACE, or Active Cornering Enhancement system, is simply brilliant. The bushes may be worn, so check them, and look carefully for ACE leaks. The system can be removed, but this needs to be done by someone who knows what they’re doing. The ACE pump must be removed, a different idler fitted, and the ECU told that ACE is no longer fitted.

Traction control and centre diff lock

Early Discovery 2s were fitted with traction control only. But the centre-diff-lock (CDL) mechanism was actually in place, inside the transfer case but no way to activate it. If you’re lucky, this is the case with the Discovery you’re looking at, in which case you simply need to fit an activation lever.

If the transfer case has no CDL mechanism, it is worth replacing the box with one that does. Traction control on its own is simply not good enough off-road.

Door locks

One of the biggest challenges with the Discovery 2 are the electronic door-lock solenoids. Land Rover no longer supplies them and good ones are becoming increasingly difficult to find. Be warned: someone may sell you a used one without any guarantee that it works. The doors cannot be opened manually, so make sure every door lock and the central locking system works correctly before buying.

Body, water leaks, and electrics

The windscreen surround is a known weakness for rust, as are the areas around the sunroofs. Once you’ve bought the vehicle, remove the roof lining and double-check that all the sunroof’s drain pipes are connected and functioning. This is important because water leaking down through the windscreen on the driver’s side can corrode the IDM, the central fuse box that works in conjunction with the body control unit ECU.

Check whether the IDM has suffered any damage and, importantly, check that every electrical function in the Discovery works. A second-hand IDM can be fitted, but it needs to be synchronised with the BCU.

Check that every window goes up and down properly. Many of the window rails will be rusted by now. Front window rails are still available new, but rear window rails can be difficult to find and may require trawling through scrapyards.

Starter motor

If you hear a “click-click” when trying to start the truck, the two contact plates in the starter motor could be on their way out. It is a common repair. Replace the solenoid plunger at the same time.

Lower control-arm bushes

These are likely to be worn if they haven’t already been replaced. They are a pig of a job to replace and are best left to a professional as they can be extremely difficult to press out of the lower control arms. Budget around R6 000.

Conclusion

These are most of the issues you need to be aware of when looking at a second-hand Discovery 2.

The important thing is not to be scared off by a long list of potential problems. These vehicles are now old, and almost any Discovery 2 you buy is going to need some attention. Find a good one, sort out its foibles and you will have a brilliant overlander which is more than capable both on and off road.

The other great thing about the Discovery 2 is that it has legions of die-hard fans around the world, and many of them are online on the various forums. So, there’s a lot of knowledge you can access if you have issues. Plus, locally there are a number of workshops that specialise in older Land Rovers.

Discovery 2 prices also appear to be slowly increasing. They start at around R50 000, while mint examples can sell for around R140 000. Whatever you think of Land Rovers, that is a lot of truck for relatively little money.

But be clever and budget at least another R50 000 to get the truck sorted and its foibles fixed.

About my Discovery

I purchased my 1999 D2 Td5 ES manual in April 2004 and have owned it ever since. I have competed at points events within the Cape Land Rover Club and have completed a number of overland trips in my faithful D2, including Baviaanskloof, Kgalagadi and the Richtersveld, to name a few. My blood is green and I sport a Land Rover tattoo – even though it’s faded now!

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The post Buyer’s guide: Land Rover Discovery 2 Td5 appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

On friendship, empty spaces, and crossing the line into the unknown

“Morocco isn’t real Africa.”

We heard that sentence more than once on the road. And, if we are honest, we used it ourselves from time to time. Morocco is too developed, too easy, too connected to Europe. Too many European campers spend their winters along the coast. Too many roads are paved. Too many things simply work.

But the longer we stayed, the less relevant that distinction became.

If there was one thing we had already learned on this journey, it was that the point was not to reach some imaginary definition of “real Africa”. The point was to be where we were. To enjoy the days we had. To take the road as it came rather than constantly measuring it against what was still ahead.

And Morocco made that easy.

It is an extraordinary country. Mountains rise abruptly from the landscape, giving way to vast, barren deserts. Along the Atlantic coast, long beaches and small fishing villages stretch beneath cliffs, with waves rolling in almost every day. It was wild enough to feel like an adventure, yet accessible enough to let us slow down and simply enjoy it.

And there was another reason to slow down.

Our first fixed point after entering Africa was Essaouira. Friends were coming to spend New Year’s Eve with us.

After months of travelling as a pair, having familiar faces suddenly appear on another continent felt strangely special. We explored the city together, ate far too much, shared stories from the road and celebrated the beginning of a new year somewhere between the Atlantic and the desert.

It reminded us of something easy to forget when travelling for a long time: friends are incredibly valuable.

They bring a different energy into everyday life. Conversations become longer, meals more enjoyable, and even ordinary moments somehow feel richer. When our friends eventually left, the silence inside Balu felt different.

For a while, it felt almost empty.

We had become so used to travelling as a pair that having other people around had reminded us how much we enjoyed sharing stories and everyday life. Suddenly, we had to get used to our little two-person world again.

Fortunately, Morocco had something else waiting for us.

It was time to take Balu properly off the beaten track.

For three days and two nights, we headed into the Erg Chegaga, one of Morocco’s great sand seas, travelling deeper into the desert until we were close to the Algerian border. There were no campsites, no restaurants and very little sign of civilisation. Just dunes, tracks and an enormous sky.

For the first time on the journey, Balu really had to work.

The soft sand swallowed the wheels and demanded momentum. Every dune became a small calculation: speed, tyre pressure, line choice and, above all, keeping the old Puch moving. The 115-horsepower engine was never designed to impress anyone, but slowly and stubbornly Balu climbed his way through the dunes.

This was exactly why we had built him.

At night, there was nothing around us. We made a fire, cooked dinner and lay beneath a sky so full of stars that the Milky Way seemed almost unreal. There were no lights on the horizon, no traffic and no notifications. Just the crackling fire, the cooling sand and the feeling of being completely alone in a landscape that seemed to have no end.

Three days in the desert reminded us that adventure does not necessarily mean going somewhere impossibly remote. Sometimes it is simply about leaving the road and seeing where it takes you.

Eventually, though, the Atlantic pulled us back.

We returned to the coast and traded four wheels for surfboards, working our way south in search of the legendary waves of Morocco’s western shoreline. The coast quickly became its own kind of rhythm: drive, surf, cook, sleep, repeat.

And somewhere along that coast, we met a familiar face again.

The Swiss woman we had first met while travelling through Portugal was there too. What had started as a casual acquaintance on the road slowly changed. Shared waves, meals, evenings around the vans and simply spending time together turned a familiar face into a friend.

It was another reminder that friendships on the road often develop differently. There is no long history behind them. Sometimes you simply meet, spend a few good days together, part ways — and then, months later, meet again somewhere completely unexpected.

The Atlantic coast was busy in places. The beaches and better-known regions had become popular winter destinations for European van travellers, particularly Germans escaping the cold further north.

There was nothing wrong with that. But after almost two months in Morocco, we felt the familiar pull again.

South.

The landscape became emptier as we followed the Atlantic down through Western Sahara. The distances grew longer and the settlements fewer. Over roughly 3,000 kilometres, there was surprisingly little that demanded our attention.

Dakhla was the exception.

We stopped there for almost two weeks to kitesurf, enjoying the wind and the enormous lagoon before continuing south. Beyond Dakhla, the landscape seemed to stretch endlessly. Road, sand, sky. Occasionally a truck, a windmill or a group of camels broke the monotony.

And then, eventually, we reached the border.

For us, this was more than just another immigration checkpoint.

Crossing from Morocco into Mauritania felt like crossing an invisible line between the world we knew and something else entirely. Until that moment, there had always been a certain familiarity. Europe was behind us, but Morocco still felt connected to it in many ways. We knew how things worked. We knew the roads. We knew what to expect.

Beyond the border, that certainty disappeared.

The road ahead led deeper into the Sahara, into countries we had never travelled through, towards landscapes and cultures we knew only from stories and maps.

We had spent months telling ourselves that the journey was about Africa.

Now, finally, it felt as though Africa was beginning.

We crossed the border into Mauritania, leaving the familiar world behind.

And suddenly, the adventure could begin.

The post Chapter 5: Morocco appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Your first cross-border 4×4 adventure doesn’t have to involve a heavily modified vehicle, an expensive collection of accessories or years of off-road experience. In fact, the secret to a relaxing Namibian holiday may lie in knowing what you don’t need.

There’s something about planning a cross-border 4×4 adventure that makes even the most seasoned 4×4 owner question their vehicle’s readiness.

Suddenly, everything is up for debate: Is my fridge too small? Does my battery need upgrading? Do I need more solar power? And should I finally fit that bull bar and winch I’ve been contemplating?

It’s an understandable reaction. Holidays cost time and money, and the pressure to get everything right is palpable.

But there’s a tipping point between being adequately prepared and creating so much stress that you need a holiday from your holiday.

To understand where that point lies, we first need to recognise that Namibia isn’t one “type” of adventure.

Namibia isn’t one destination

For South Africans planning their first cross-border 4×4 holiday, Namibia is arguably one of the best places to start.

The currency is familiar, the tourist infrastructure is well established, and many of the country’s most spectacular attractions can be reached without tackling overly demanding terrain.

But not all Namibian adventures are created equal.

There’s a considerable difference between touring southern and central Namibia’s established gravel roads and venturing into the remote north-west, where distances between services can be substantial and self-sufficiency takes on an entirely different meaning.

Likewise, dedicated dune-driving adventures introduce their own requirements in terms of vehicle capability, recovery equipment and driver experience.

For this guide, we’re concentrating on the type of holiday most first-time visitors are likely to undertake: exploring Namibia’s established touring routes, from the Fish River Canyon and Sossusvlei to Lüderitz, Walvis Bay and even Etosha.

It’s a journey dominated by vast landscapes, long gravel roads, established campsites and relatively accessible attractions. And the preparation required is considerably less complicated than many people imagine.

How much 4×4 do you really need?

Here’s a potentially unpopular opinion: for most established Namibian touring routes, a standard 4×4 is more than adequate.

You don’t necessarily need aftermarket suspension, a bull bar, extensive recovery equipment or even a dual-battery system.

In fact, depending on your itinerary, you probably won’t need to engage low range at all.

That’s not to say these accessories don’t have value or can’t be justified. But their absence isn’t reason enough to delay a holiday you’re almost certain to enjoy regardless.

Caption: Standing 170 metres high, Dune 45 is one of the most photographed dunes in the world. Although almost any vehicle can reach its base, continuing towards Deadvlei requires a 4WD, as the final stretch becomes increasingly sandy. Image credit: Thomas Roell

Of course, if a particular modification forms part of a broader, long-term plan for your vehicle and future cross-border travel, Namibia is a great place to test your equipment and refine your touring setup.

For now, however, we’re focusing on what you’re most likely to need, along with a few non-negotiables. Starting with…

Tyres: the foundation of your Namibian holiday

From a technical perspective, tyre management should be one of your biggest priorities, both before and during the trip.

Appropriate tyre pressures can improve ride comfort and reduce the punishment of corrugated roads, but the correct pressure depends on tyre construction, vehicle load and travelling speed.

Southern and central Namibia aren’t particularly demanding in terms of vehicle capability, but extended gravel-road travel brings a real risk of punctures and irreparable tyre damage, particularly when heavily loaded.

Beware of blowouts 

A straightforward tread puncture can often be repaired, provided you have the essentials: a compressor, functioning jack, wheel-changing tools and a suitable puncture repair kit.

But losing a tyre completely is another matter.

One common cause of irreparable tyre damage is an undetected puncture. As the tyre loses pressure, its sidewalls flex excessively and generate heat. If driven far enough while severely underinflated, the tyre can also become trapped and damaged between the wheel rim and the road surface, eventually causing the sidewall to fail.

Rear-tyre punctures can be particularly difficult to detect because they don’t immediately affect steering feel. On a long, straight Namibian gravel road, a driver might not notice the problem until the tyre is beyond repair.

This is why a Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) is worth serious consideration. An early warning can mean the difference between plugging a puncture and replacing an entire tyre.

Even without a TPMS, regularly checking your tyres and adjusting your mirrors to keep an eye on the rear wheels can help.

Of course, pressure management is only effective if you’re willing to make adjustments when conditions change.

If your compressor is buried beneath a mountain of camping equipment, you’re less likely to use it. That’s when people postpone reinflating their tyres until the next fuel stop, rather than stopping before driving at higher speeds on hot tar.

A reliable pressure gauge and easily accessible compressor are among the most useful pieces of equipment you can carry.

Caption: Keeping your compressor, pressure gauge and tyre-repair kit easily accessible is an important part of packing for Namibia. If they’re buried beneath your luggage, you’re far less likely to use them when needed.

Ditch the old rubber

It’s tempting to squeeze one more holiday out of a set of all-terrains, particularly when there’s still a reasonable amount of tread remaining.

But if your tyres are approaching replacement, consider fitting new ones before the trip rather than afterwards.

Aside from traction and safety considerations, reduced tread depth can also leave tyres more vulnerable to certain types of puncture damage.

Do you need a second spare?

For remote expeditions, an additional spare wheel can provide valuable insurance. But on established southern and central Namibian touring routes, a second spare isn’t automatically essential.

Much depends on the condition and construction of your tyres (see our LT versus P-Metric feature here), the roads you’re planning to travel and how far you’ll be from assistance.

A serviceable spare, reliable jack, appropriate wheel-changing tools and puncture repair kit are generally a sensible starting point.

Just make sure everything works before you leave, including your ability to remove and refit a wheel on uneven terrain.

Dust: the problem you can’t avoid

You may not encounter deep mud, steep rocky climbs or serious recovery situations, but you can be reasonably certain of one thing: you’re going to encounter dust.

Lots of it.

For double-cab owners, this deserves particular attention. A poorly sealed load bin can turn an enjoyable holiday into an ongoing battle to keep clothing, bedding and food clean.

Caption: If you own a double-cab, investing in a dust-sealing kit before your Namibian adventure is a decision you’ll be thankful for, particularly after hundreds of kilometres on dusty gravel roads.

A well-sealed canopy is a good starting point, while dedicated dust-sealing kits and suitable canopy pressurisation systems can provide additional protection.

Sealed storage boxes offer another layer of defence, particularly for sensitive equipment and clothing.

Dust management isn’t particularly glamorous, and it won’t make your vehicle look more capable, but it can make a substantial difference to your travelling experience.

The fridge and battery question

Few subjects generate more discussion among overlanders than refrigeration and battery systems.

Lithium batteries, DC-to-DC chargers, solar panels, inverters and dual-compartment fridge/freezers can all form part of an excellent touring setup.

But do you actually need all of them?

For a typical Namibian holiday following established tourist routes, probably not.

Consider how your journey is likely to unfold.

Established towns such as Lüderitz, Windhoek and Swakopmund may form part of your itinerary, meaning there’s a good chance you’ll be staying in lodges or campsites with electricity between more remote destinations.

In that scenario, your battery system doesn’t necessarily need to support a fridge indefinitely. It simply needs to provide enough power between charging opportunities.

A modest auxiliary battery or suitably sized portable-power pack could be sufficient.

Just bear in mind that a fridge operating in Namibia’s summer heat can consume considerably more energy than the same fridge in mild conditions.

Caption: Most first-time Namibian itineraries include towns such as Lüderitz, pictured here, where you can regularly replenish supplies. This reduces the need to carry excessive food, refrigeration capacity or battery power for extended periods of self-sufficiency. Image credit: Aurelien CHARRIER

Bigger isn’t always better

The same logic applies to refrigeration.

A 40 to 60-litre single-compartment fridge may be perfectly adequate for many travellers, particularly when food can be replenished along the route.

You don’t necessarily need a large dual-compartment fridge/freezer or enough refrigerated storage to carry three weeks of groceries. In fact, food-import restrictions may influence what you can bring across the border in the first place, particularly certain meat and dairy products.

Caption: A 40 to 60-litre fridge will generally be sufficient for most first-time visitors exploring Namibia’s established southern and central touring routes, particularly when opportunities to restock are relatively frequent.

The important consideration is how frequently you’ll have opportunities to restock, rather than how much food you can carry from home.

And remember, a smaller fridge generally means less weight, less space occupied and potentially lower power consumption.

Pack for the journey, not just the destination

There’s an aspect of vehicle preparation that receives surprisingly little attention, despite having an enormous influence on how enjoyable a holiday becomes.

Packing.

Not simply how much equipment you can squeeze into your vehicle, but how easily you can access it.

Namibia is a country of enormous landscapes. Much of the enjoyment comes from the journey itself: stopping beside the road, admiring a mountain range, making coffee in the shade or preparing lunch with a view that stretches to the horizon.

But here’s the problem.

If stopping for coffee involves unpacking half the vehicle to find the kettle, moving three bags to reach the fridge and digging beneath the bedding to retrieve a chair, you’re eventually going to stop bothering.

You’ll drive past another spectacular viewpoint because the effort of unpacking simply isn’t worth it.

And that’s a shame, because those spontaneous stops are often among the most memorable parts of a road trip.

Accessibility beats complexity

You don’t necessarily need an expensive drawer system to organise your vehicle effectively.

You simply need to think carefully about what you’ll use most frequently.

Your fridge should be accessible without moving other equipment. Chairs and tables should be easy to retrieve. Coffee-making equipment, drinking water and snacks should have designated places.

Caption: A fancy drawer system isn’t essential for a successful trip, but smart packing is. Make sure your chairs, food, drinks and coffee-making equipment are easy to access, unpack and repack whenever the opportunity arises.

An awning that can be quickly deployed is particularly useful in Namibia, where natural shade is often scarce.

Likewise, a roof rack may prove valuable for carrying a table, chairs or camping equipment, even if you don’t need it for recovery gear or additional fuel.

The objective isn’t to carry more gear. It’s to make the gear you already have easier to use.

Corrugations: the MERCILESS EQUIPMENT killer

While Namibia’s gravel roads may not demand advanced off-road driving skills, they can be surprisingly hard on a vehicle.

Long stretches of corrugations test suspension components, roof racks, brackets and accessories. Even a minor loose fitting can develop into a serious problem if ignored.

Before departure, ensure your vehicle has been serviced and any existing rattles or mechanical concerns have been investigated. During the trip, make a habit of stopping periodically to check your tyres, inspect roof-rack mounts and look for anything that’s worked loose or isn’t strapped down. A bouncing fridge is a soon-to-be broken fridge. 

Finally, don’t underestimate the value of local knowledge. Chatting to fellow travellers at campsites and lodges can provide invaluable information about road conditions and alternative routes.

A road that was perfectly manageable a month ago may have deteriorated after bad weather, while another may have recently been graded.

A five-minute conversation could save you hours of uncomfortable driving.

The real meaning of being prepared

It’s easy to measure vehicle preparation by the number of accessories fitted.

A bigger fridge, more batteries, upgraded suspension and additional storage can all create the impression that a vehicle is better prepared for adventure.

And sometimes, that’s exactly what they achieve.

But preparation isn’t about how much equipment you own. It’s about understanding the demands of the journey and making sure your vehicle, equipment and experience are appropriate for the task.

For a first-time Namibian adventure, that may mean spending less money on modifications and more time inspecting your tyres, servicing your vehicle, planning your route and organising your luggage.

It may mean choosing a smaller fridge, a simpler battery setup or a comfortable campsite instead of carrying everything required for a month in the wilderness.

And it may mean accepting that the most memorable moments of the holiday won’t involve testing your vehicle’s capabilities at all.

They’ll involve stopping beside a dusty gravel road, unfolding a chair, making a cup of coffee and enjoying a landscape unlike anything you’ve seen before.

After all, the point of preparing your vehicle for an adventure isn’t to spend more time thinking about the vehicle. It’s to spend less.

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The post How to prepare for your first Namibian holiday – without the overkill appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Welcome to the new 4WD Revolution.

We’ve changed the way we publish content. From now on, you’ll find new features online, brought together in a monthly newsletter like this one.

It’s a change we’ve been thinking about for some time. Our editor’s column explains why, and what comes next.

ED’S COLUMN: GROWING PAINS

Grant explains why 4WD Revolution is moving beyond the traditional issue-and-PDF model, and what we’re hoping to build with the new online Library. READ MORE

THE NO.1 MISTAKE OFF-ROADERS MAKE WHEN BUYING AN ALL-TERRAIN

Same size. Same tread pattern. Same product name. But two very different tyres. We put LT and P-metric all-terrain tyres to the test to uncover the differences that aren’t obvious at first glance—and why choosing the wrong one could ruin your next trip. READ MORE

NAMIBIA OR BOTSWANA?

We look beyond the obvious attractions to explore what each country offers the off-road traveller — and help you work out which one might be right for your first cross-border adventure. READ MORE

HOW TO MAXIMISE YOUR SUV’S PACKING SPACE

Your SUV might have more packing space than you think. We take a closer look at a Fortuner’s storage potential and explore how a smarter approach to drawers, fridges and load space can transform the way you pack for family getaways. READ MORE

OUR SUPPORTERS

Everything we publish is made possible with the support of the brands you see here. Their backing allows us to continue producing practical 4WD content without putting it behind a paywall.

If you find our stories useful, please support these businesses when you have the opportunity.

Would your brand like to support what we’re building? We’d love to hear from you: CONTACT US

The post VOLUME 13 appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

If you’ve ever spent time around a toddler, you’ve probably witnessed the so-called Terrible Twos. Experts say the tantrums stem from young children trying to figure out their place in the world while lacking the communication skills to explain what they’re thinking. The result is an incoherent, wildly unreasonable little person whom you’re somehow expected to be endlessly patient with.

Well, guess what? 4WD Revolution turns two this month, and I’m about to ask you to do the same.

About six months ago, I wrote an editor’s column asking for your feedback. I wanted to know what you liked, what you didn’t and—most importantly—what direction you thought the magazine should take.

It took me weeks to reply to everyone. Not just because there were so many emails, but because I wanted to give each response the same level of thought that many of you had put into your feedback.

What surprised me wasn’t the number of responses. It was how similar they were.

A clear pattern began to emerge.

PATTERN RECOGNITION

Time and again, readers said they valued in-depth, well-researched articles that offered practical advice rather than superficial content. Many of you also told me you were collecting the magazines and keeping them on file as a reference.

That felt important somehow, but much like a two-year-old trying to explain why he absolutely must wear gumboots to bed, I couldn’t quite articulate why.

Then, one afternoon, it finally clicked.

This isn’t becoming a magazine.

It’s becoming a library.

That realisation changed things.

Readers aren’t simply reading 4WD Revolution. They’re using it as a reference. And that’s when I realised we’d created an unexpected problem.

A reference guide is only as good as its index. So, if the information you’re looking for is scattered across half a dozen back issues, it isn’t really a guide at all. It’s just a collection of magazines, and finding the answer becomes an exercise in frustration rather than a genuinely useful resource.

So I started asking a different question.

Not, “How do we build a better magazine?”

But rather…

“How do we build something that’s genuinely more useful?”

The answer, I think, is surprisingly simple.

Don’t build a magazine. Build a library.

After all, a magazine is something you read once. A library is something you can return to.

Caption: Over time, we’ll continue adding old and new features to their relevant categories, making it easier to find useful stories when researching a topic. But more than that, we want to include your experiences, too. If you’d like to contribute to a topic, get in touch with us here.

THE COMPOUND EFFECT

In practical terms, that means we’re moving away from producing dated PDF issues and towards publishing articles as they’re completed. Instead of waiting months for the next issue, you’ll receive new stories throughout the year. The best of them will be continually expanded, refined, and woven into dedicated topic guides which become more comprehensive with every update.

Over the coming months, you’ll start seeing that vision take shape. So rather than producing PDF magazines that slowly become yesterday’s news, I want us to build something that becomes more valuable with time.

Every new article, every reader contribution and every fresh piece of research should strengthen the articles that came before it.

I’ve been writing about 4x4s for almost 20 years, and in that time I’ve been constantly reminded of two things: how much I still have to learn, and that our collective knowledge is far greater than any one person’s.

That’s the future I want to build.

And if your emails and contributed stories are anything to go by, I have a feeling it’s one we’ll build together.

You can start by contacting us here.

The post GROWING PAINS appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

YOUR FIRST CROSS-BORDER ADVENTURE

For many South African 4×4 owners, crossing an international border is high on the bucket list.

You’ve explored your own country, tackled increasingly remote destinations, and perhaps even started to equip your vehicle for longer trips. Eventually, the question comes up: where next?

Namibia and Botswana are obvious candidates. Both are relatively accessible from South Africa, both offer spectacular scenery and wildlife, and both provide the kind of freedom and remoteness that makes an overlanding adventure so appealing.

But they’re very different destinations.

Namibia delivers extraordinary landscapes – the kind that stay with you long after you’ve returned home – while Botswana offers some of the finest wildlife experiences on the planet.

So, if you’ve never taken your 4×4 over an international border before, which should you tackle first – Namibia or Botswana?

TIME TO CHOOSE

If you’ve never taken your 4×4 over an international border before, Namibia is probably the easier place to start.

That’s not to say Botswana is particularly difficult. Rather, Namibia offers a relatively gentle introduction to cross-border 4×4 travel.

For South African travellers, there’s the familiarity of the rand, while Namibia’s road network is generally good, and its low rainfall means you’re less likely to encounter the kind of seasonal road conditions that can turn a straightforward journey into a recovery adventure.

It’s also relatively easy to plan a trip around established routes, accommodation and campsites, and much of southern Namibia can be explored without an overly complicated vehicle setup.

And that makes Namibia more than just a great holiday destination. It’s a good place to learn the ropes of cross-border travel.

You’ll get a feel for travelling long distances, managing fuel and water, dealing with border crossings, planning around remote destinations and discovering what equipment you actually use – and what you don’t.

In other words, Namibia can serve as something of a trial run for bigger and more demanding adventures.

NORTH VERSUS SOUTH

There is, however, an important distinction to make.

Southern Namibia is considerably more accessible than the remote north.

Once you start heading into northern Namibia, the distances become greater, supplies harder to come by, and the roads considerably more challenging. You’re dealing with a much more remote environment where vehicle preparation, recovery equipment, fuel, water, and self-sufficiency become increasingly important.

So, when we say Namibia is an easier introduction to cross-border travel, we’re primarily talking about southern Namibia.

And that’s where we’re going to start.

Over the course of this series, we’ll look at what you need to know before setting off, how to prepare your 4×4, what equipment is genuinely useful and what you can probably leave at home.

We’ll start with a trip to southern Namibia before moving north into more remote and demanding territory. We’ll then turn our attention to Botswana, including water crossings, wildlife, travelling with kids, and the pros and cons of towing a trailer or caravan.

You can follow that series by subscribing here.

But before we get into all of that, here are some final thoughts on choosing between Namibia and Botswana.

CHOOSE NAMIBIA IF YOU WANT:

Dramatic landscapes

Solitude and wide-open spaces

Desert and mountain scenery

Long-distance exploration

Photography – without the expensive telephoto lenses often needed for wildlife photography

A sense of remoteness

An easier introduction to cross-border 4×4 travel

CHOOSE BOTSWANA IF YOU WANT:

Wildlife

Rivers, wetlands, and bush

Game drives

Predators and big game

Wilderness camping

A more traditional African safari experience

If this is your first cross-border 4×4 adventure, our advice is simple: start with southern Namibia. It offers enough distance, remoteness and adventure to feel like a proper expedition, without immediately throwing you into the deep end.

And once you’ve got that first border crossing under your belt, you’ll have a much better idea of where you want to go next.

The journey continues: In the next instalment, we’ll head into southern Namibia, looking at what you can expect along the way, where to go and, most importantly, how to prepare your 4×4 for the journey.

Want to follow the series? Subscribe to the 4WD Revolution newsletter here and we’ll send the next chapter straight to your inbox.

Have something to add? We’d love to hear from you. Contact us here.

The post NAMIBIA OR BOTSWANA? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

The way I see it, there are three kinds of people in this world:

1.         Those who know what they want.

2.         Those who have what they want.

3.         And, those who have no idea.

The first group is easy. Ask them, “What do you want in life?” and they’ll immediately rattle off a Santa-sized wish list. “I want a bigger house in a nicer neighbourhood. A fancier car. A better watch. Better holidays.”

Good for them. There ain’t nothing wrong with that. Go get some.

I’ll come back to the second group later. For now, the people who really interest me are the last ones. They’re the ones who – in the absence of a specific answer – will often reply, “To be happy.”

The moment those words leave their mouths, though, they hear how naïve they sound and quickly correct themselves. “Well… you know. Fulfilment. I want fulfilment.”

Hmm… that’s a completely different word. Happiness and fulfilment aren’t the same thing.

In my experience, people who make that instant correction have realised somewhere along the way that happiness is fleeting. It comes and goes. If it didn’t, it wouldn’t really be happiness anymore. It would just be life.

People who say they want fulfilment are really telling you something else. They want peace.

To be satisfied.

Complete.

To stop wanting.

To be full.

The problem is that our brains aren’t wired for peace. They’re wired for achievement.

A goal.

A summit.

A reward for getting there.

But what happens when you reach the top? Do you suddenly dissolve into a beam of pure fulfilment?

Who knows? No one ever seems to get there.

The real dilemma is that we all define “the top” differently, so nobody actually knows what it looks like. We just keep looking sideways at each other, wondering: Has he made it? Has she figured it out?

So, if fulfilment isn’t an Apple Watch, brand new car or top-tier status on your medical-aid rewards programme… what the hell is it?

What does it actually mean to be fulfilled? Content. At peace.

I wish I knew. But lately, it feels as though I might be getting closer to the truth. I suspect the answer lies hidden inside another, far more common question: Heads or tails?

Let me explain…

As a species, we like to think of ourselves as rational, logical, reason-driven animals. The truth is far less flattering.

We don’t perceive reason, we perceive contrast.

Something is good only because it can be measured against something bad.

Warm exists because there’s cold.

Love because there’s loneliness.

High notes because there are low notes.

Happiness because there’s sadness.

Our minds are constantly searching for contrast. We call a photograph beautiful because of the contrast between light and shadow, colour and texture, foreground and background.

A good meal is only good because we’ve eaten bad ones.

A great movie only exists because we’ve sat through terrible ones.

Everything we value is defined by what it isn’t.

Like a coin. One side creates the other.

The mistake we make is going through life labelling every experience as either good or bad. If it’s good, we think, I need more of that. If it’s bad, we assume something has gone wrong.

We expect life to be a coin with only one side.

Which, when you stop to think about it, is hilariously impossible.

It’s like flipping a coin and expecting it to land on heads every single time.

So, we come back to the original question: What does fulfilment actually look like?

Well, if fulfilment and peace really are the same thing, perhaps the answer isn’t hidden on the heads side of the coin. Perhaps it’s found in accepting that tails belongs there too.

We’re an optimistic species. We spend our lives chasing the next promotion, the next holiday, the next relationship, the next Friday, convinced that once we get there, life will finally settle down.

But it doesn’t work like that.

The promotion comes with more responsibility.

The holiday ends.

The relationship takes work.

Friday becomes Monday.

Heads become tails.

The mistake isn’t that tails showed up. The mistake is believing it never should have.

Maybe fulfilment isn’t the feeling you get when life finally starts landing on heads more often. Maybe it’s the moment you stop needing it to.

And that brings me back to the second group. The people who already have what they want.

On the surface, society wants us to believe these are the ones with the biggest houses, the nicest cars, the best holidays, and the diamond-status memberships. But I don’t buy it.

Maybe the people who have what they want are simply the ones who’ve stopped expecting life to land on heads every time.

I once read a line that has stayed with me ever since: “If you don’t know what you want from life, it’s probably because you already have it.”

Funny enough, 4×4 travel teaches this lesson better than most.

Vehicles break.

It rains.

You get stuck.

You take the wrong turn.

Border crossings get delayed.

And yet, years later, those are the stories we remember. After all, adventure isn’t the absence of problems. It’s the acceptance that problems are part of the adventure.

So, the next time a trip doesn’t go according to plan, flip a coin into the air—but don’t look at which side it lands on. Just remember that the good comes with the bad, the sunshine comes with the rain.

And the best stories usually begin the moment things stop going according to plan.

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The post Accepting the good with the bad appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Chat to a group of Fortuner owners and many will admit they toyed with the idea of buying a Hilux before finally settling on the SUV.

The double-cab versus SUV debate isn’t unique to Toyota. And it always ultimately comes down to two things: storage and cost.

Drop a canopy onto the back of a double-cab and you have a deep, square load area which offers generous and practical storage. There’s just one problem: the canopy itself.

A fit-for-purpose canopy, with rubberising, and a proper dust-sealing kit, can easily add another R50 – 65k to the vehicle’s sticker price. Whereas, an SUV like the Fortuner arrives pretty much ready to explore.

But while there’s not much you need to do to most SUVs to make them off-road ready and dust proof, there is one area where they typically struggle: packing space.

Caption: Most 4×4 SUVs are essentially turnkey, providing safe, dust- and weather-proof storage straight from the factory. The downside is that their available packing volume rarely matches that of a double-cab. This means SUV owners need to be more inventive – and more critical – about how they use the space available.

THE BOOT PROBLEM

Even with the third row of seats removed, SUV owners have to work harder and be more inventive with the space on offer.

Traditionally, that meant fitting a standard drawer system, putting the fridge on top, then adding a fridge slide, and often a protective cage around the fridge to keep camping gear away from the cooling vents and access points.

Happily, there’s a new solution on offer.

A collaboration between Big Country and National Luna has resulted in a completely new approach to fridge design.

It combines a dedicated drawer fridge with a purpose-designed drawer system to make considerably better use of an SUV’s limited boot space.

Caption: A conventional drawer system typically places the fridge on top, using a drop-down fridge slide to clear the roof when the lid is opened, while also making it easier to see and reach items at the bottom. It’s a tried-and-tested solution, but a fully loaded fridge can be surprisingly heavy, requiring increasingly elaborate – and expensive – slide mechanisms to manage the weight. The Drawer Fridge does away with all of that.

A DIFFERENT KIND OF FRIDGE

The heart of the system is National Luna’s completely different approach to fridge design. Unlike a conventional camping fridge, the 40- and 60-litre National Luna Drawer Fridges feature an externally-mounted compressor. This allows the fridge to sit low and integrate directly into a drawer system, eliminating the need for a conventional drop-down fridge slide.

That seemingly simple change has some significant advantages.

Because the fridge can be mounted at floor level, everything inside is easy to see and reach without having to drop the fridge to access its contents. More importantly, it changes what happens around the fridge.

There’s no protective cage to take up valuable space, no need to accommodate a drop-down fridge slide, and no awkward packing arrangements dictated by the fridge’s position. The entire drawer system also has a flat upper surface, creating a much more practical platform for luggage and camping gear.

LOW PROFILE, HIGH UTILITY 

Best of all, the overall height penalty is surprisingly small, and you still get plenty of vertical packing space that can be utilised.

Big Country was the first to take advantage of this new fridge design, developing a drawer system specifically around the National Luna Drawer Fridge.

The result is a storage solution that makes the most of an SUV’s available space, while also incorporating a dedicated area at the rear for mounting a dual-battery and charging system.

Caption: To make the most of every available centimetre, Big Country has incorporated a dedicated dual-battery shelf at the rear of the drawer system, providing a neat home for the auxiliary battery and charger.

NOT JUST FOR FORTUNERS

And the idea isn’t limited to mid-sized SUVs like the Fortuner.

The National Luna Drawer Fridge and Big Country Drawer System are also available for the Land Cruiser 100, 200, and 300 Series. These larger vehicles make use of the 60-litre Drawer Fridge, while the Fortuner uses the 40-litre unit.

Caption: Of course, the National Luna Drawer Fridge isn’t limited to off-the-shelf storage solutions. Its low-profile design makes it an ideal candidate for a custom drawer system in just about any vehicle.

There are more applications in the pipeline, including a 37-litre version and dedicated drawer system for the Ineos Grenadier. The Suzuki Jimny is also under consideration.

So, while this particular solution might have started with the Fortuner, the thinking behind it has a broader application: use the space you have more cleverly.

For updates on new applications as they become available, subscribe to the 4WD Revolution mailing list here.

PRICING

NL40 Single Control R13 700

NL40 Dual Control R15 400

NL60 Single Control R15 500

NL60 Dual Control R17 500

The Big Country Drawer Fridge storage system starts at R30 999.

To check if there’s a Drawer Fridge and Big Country storage solution for your vehicle, call:

Safari Centre on (021) 595 3910 for Western Cape enquiries.

Big Country on (011) 795 9700 for Gauteng enquiries.

National Luna on (011) 452 5438 for nationwide fridge enquiries. 

Have something to add? We’d love to hear from you. Contact us here.

The post How to maximise your SUV’s packing space. appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Authored by 4WD Revolution.

“How much did you pay for your all-terrain tyres again?”

You can tell by the smirk on your mate’s face that it’s a loaded question. He’s obviously got a better deal on the same tyre, but you play along anyway.

“I think it was R4.5k per tyre. Why do you ask?”

“Jeez, that’s quite pricey. I just bought the same tyre, same size, same tread pattern, for R3.5k per tyre.”

The statement stings. Not just because he’s taking obvious pleasure in one-upping you, but because you’re now wondering whether your tyre dealer ripped you off.

But wait, did he actually buy the same tyre?

Didn’t you once read an article in this very publication about how LT and P-metric tyres look almost identical, but are fundamentally different underneath?

That’s right, you probably did. 

Which means you didn’t necessarily get ripped off by your tyre dealer, and your mate hasn’t necessarily scored a better deal. In fact, if you’re a 4×4 owner who regularly ventures off-road, carries a fair load, and deflates his tyres on a regular basis, you may have bought the more appropriate tyre for your application.

Here’s why…

LT VERSUS P-METRIC

As mentioned above, we’ve discussed LT and P-metric tyres before, but usually as a footnote in a broader tyre story. This time, we’re putting these two different types under the microscope and seeing how they differ — so you don’t buy the wrong tyre for your application.

To recap, many all-terrain tyres are available in two specifications: LT (Light Truck) and P-metric (Passenger-metric), with the latter sometimes marketed as an SUV tyre.

When you buy a brand-new 4×4, the chances are very high it’ll arrive from the factory wearing P-metric all-terrain rubber.

The first thing to be aware of is that there’s nothing inherently wrong with a P-metric tyre. For the average 4×4 owner, there are actually some compelling reasons to choose this type. They’re generally lighter, cheaper, quieter, and more comfortable than their LT equivalents; while their lower weight can also contribute to better fuel economy.

The interesting part is that an LT and P-metric version of the same all-terrain tyre can look almost identical from the outside. Same tread pattern. Same sidewall design. Same overall appearance.

But underneath that familiar exterior, you’re looking at two totally different tyres. It’s like you’re comparing a RAV4 to a Land Cruiser – sure, they’re both Toyotas, but that’s where the similarity ends. 

LT tyres are generally heavier and more robustly constructed, with greater load-carrying capability, and greater resistance to the abuse associated with heavy loads, lower pressures, and rough terrain. They also often have deeper tread, although this isn’t an inherent requirement of an LT tyre.

Caption: Although deeper tread isn’t a prerequisite for LT classification, LT tyres often feature deeper treads than their P-metric counterparts. Depending on your driving style and application, this can translate into a longer service life.

In the case of our test tyres, measured at the same location on each, the P-metric had 10mm of tread depth, compared with 12mm on the LT. That may not sound like much, but it represents 20% more tread — and potentially 20% more value from your tyre.

So what this means is that an LT tyre is a sensible choice if your 4×4 is heavily laden with accessories, camping equipment and other gear, particularly if you regularly deflate your tyres when driving off-road.

The reason comes down to something we can’t see from the outside: construction.

An LT tyre’s more robust construction allows it to better tolerate the additional heat and deflection generated when carrying heavy loads at reduced pressures. Its stronger casing and sidewall can also provide greater resistance to impacts, and reduce sidewall bulging when deflated.

And that matters because a sidewall puncture is a very different proposition to a simple tread puncture. While a tread puncture can often be repaired, damage to the sidewall can render the tyre unrepairable — potentially turning a chance encounter with a sharp rock or piece of debris into an expensive mistake.

THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS

To illustrate some of the key differences between LT and P-metric tyres, we asked the good folks at General Tire if we could borrow two versions of the same tyre.

While many of the major tyre brands offer LT and P-metric versions of their popular all-terrain products, the General Grabber AT3 is a particularly good case study for comparing the differences.

Among South African vehicle brands, the P-metric Grabber AT3 is a popular OE (original equipment) tyre, which makes it a common choice when owners come to replace their original tyres – because we’re inclined to stay with what we know. 

But if you want to upgrade your vehicle’s off-road ability, the LT variant of the Grabber AT3 deserves serious consideration. Sure, it’s more expensive, but let’s look at what it offers you in real terms – actual measurements.

WEIGHT

Using a basic floor scale, the LT weighed in at 23.1 kg, versus 17.5 kg for the P-metric. That’s a difference of 5.6 kg per tyre — almost 33% more unsprung weight.

Much of this additional weight comes from the LT’s more robust construction, including its heavier casing, steel reinforcement, and deeper tread blocks.

The beefier construction allows the LT to safely contain higher pressures and carry greater loads.

There are downsides to all that extra rubber and reinforcement of course. More unsprung weight can affect fuel consumption, ride quality, and suspension performance, particularly if your shocks are already tired.

However, for an off-road-focused 4×4, those compromises are a worthwhile trade-off given the increased durability and load-carrying capability.

And weight is only the beginning.

LOAD

The most significant difference between an LT and P-metric tyre comes down to how much weight each is designed to carry.

Tyres communicate this information in several ways, including load index, load range, and maximum load capacity.

Explaining all the numbers and letters is probably better suited to a separate article, but the important thing to understand is this simple fact: An LT tyre is designed to carry more load than its seemingly identical P-metric sibling. That additional load-carrying capacity is closely linked to the tyre’s ability to safely contain higher inflation pressures.

As we’ve explained in previous tyre articles, the air inside the tyre does much of the heavy lifting. The tyre is essentially the vessel containing that air. Make the vessel stronger, and it can safely contain more pressure and support more weight.

Caption: The General Grabber AT3 is a popular all-terrain in South Africa, making it ideal for our LT versus P-Metric comparison.

Using our General Grabber AT3s as an example, the LT version has a maximum load of 1 450 kg at 5.5 bar, while the P-metric version is rated for 1 120 kg at 3.5 bar.

Of course, these maximum figures aren’t representative of how most of us use our tyres off-road. We’re more likely to reduce pressures for improved comfort, traction, and reduced impact damage.

This is where the LT tyre’s stronger construction becomes particularly relevant.

Caption: The tyre’s sidewall tells you exactly how much weight it can carry and, consequently, the maximum pressure it can handle.

HEAT

Heat is one of a tyre’s greatest enemies.

As a tyre deflects, the rubber and casing flex, generating heat. Add a heavy vehicle, a heavy load, low tyre pressures, and a corrugated road, and you have a recipe for significant tyre stress.

A more robustly constructed LT tyre is designed to cope with this punishment better than a P-metric tyre. Its stiffer construction generally means less deflection under load, helping it better manage the heat generated when operating at reduced pressures.

And when you’re hundreds of kilometres from the nearest tyre shop, that additional margin of durability can be worth considerably more than the difference in purchase price.

DEFLATION

If you ever want proof of just how widely misunderstood LT versus P-metric tyres are, look at how many publications, websites, and YouTube channels conduct all-terrain tyre tests without mentioning whether the tyres are LT or P-metric.

It’s a glaring omission.

It’s like comparing a RAV4 with a Land Cruiser but focusing on criteria like economy, manoeuvrability, and comfort. Of course, the RAV4 is likely to come out looking like the better vehicle.

To make matters worse, testers will often compare an LT all-terrain tyre with a P-metric all-terrain tyre at the same inflation pressure.

That methodology can be misleading because the two tyres won’t necessarily behave the same way at the same pressure.

Coming back to our two test tyres, we measured the footprint of both General Grabber AT3s at various pressures. As you can see in the images below, the LT consistently produces a shorter footprint than the P-metric at the same pressure – with the difference varying from approximately 7% to 8%.

If you tested these two tyres in sand at exactly the same pressure, the LT could therefore appear to perform significantly worse than the P-metric.

But is that a fair comparison?

The chosen pressure is somewhat arbitrary. If the objective is to compare the tyres’ ability to produce traction, shouldn’t the test be conducted at the same footprint length rather than simply the same pressure?

The point is that an LT tyre’s stiffer construction means it won’t deform and spread in the same way as a P-metric tyre at a given pressure.

That isn’t necessarily a disadvantage. It simply means the two tyres require different pressures across different applications.

This is one reason why a softer, more pliant P-metric tyre can be attractive to an off-roader who drives a relatively lightweight vehicle almost exclusively in sand. It can produce a larger footprint at a given pressure, while also being lighter, more comfortable, and cheaper to replace.

For a heavily-loaded touring 4×4 that spends its time dealing with corrugations and rocky tracks, the priorities can be very different.

THE DEALER DEBACLE

The decision between LT and P-metric really isn’t that complicated. If you frequently drive off-road, heavily load your 4×4, travel to remote places, and regularly reduce your tyre pressures, an LT tyre will generally be the more appropriate choice.

The problem is that not every tyre dealer understands this distinction.

There can be a disconnect between what a tyre salesperson thinks the customer wants — the cheapest possible price — and what the customer actually needs: the right tyre for their application.

There are several reasons for this. Tyre sales staff may be incentivised by sales volumes, staff turnover can be high, and many tyre dealers primarily deal with passenger vehicles rather than dedicated off-road applications.

Caption: While it makes sense to shop around for the best possible tyre deal, it makes even more sense to build a relationship with a tyre dealer who understands the demands of off-road applications — and preferably, one who’s a 4×4 enthusiast himself. Photo credit: Roam Overlanding.

That last point is worth highlighting. Much of the misinformation people receive about tyres could be avoided if they bought from a dealer who specialises in off-road tyres — or, better yet, one whose owner or staff are 4×4 enthusiasts themselves.

Ultimately, however, the responsibility still rests with you, the buyer, to understand what you’re buying.

Because if two tyres look identical but one costs considerably more, the cheaper tyre isn’t necessarily the bargain you think it is.

A PERSONAL ACCOUNT

Ed’s Note: Over the years, I’ve lost a fair number of tyres due to sidewall damage. But, interestingly, I’ve never lost an LT tyre.

And, come to think of it, I’ve also never lost a P-metric tyre when I’ve kept that tyre at the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended pressure.

Almost every tyre I’ve lost to sidewall damage has been a P-metric that I deflated.

It seems I’m a slow learner. I probably should have spotted the trend sooner and stopped deflating P-metric tyres altogether. But when you’re 20 km down a badly-corrugated road, the temptation to “just let out a wee bit of air” to make the ride more bearable eventually creeps in.

Then, before you know it, you’re listening to the all-too-familiar sound of air rushing out of a tyre.

That doesn’t mean P-metric tyres are bad. If you primarily stick to gravel roads, rarely deflate, and seldom carry a heavy load, a P-metric tyre will probably serve you perfectly well.

For everyone else, an LT should be at the top of your shopping list.

Caption: I once travelled through Mozambique’s Limpopo National Park in a stock-standard Nissan Patrol fitted with factory P-metric tyres. Eventually, I ran out of tyre plugs and had to borrow some from others in our convoy. It was my first real-world lesson in how the wrong tyre, in the wrong application, can completely dominate a trip.

PRICE

There are no market-related rules governing how LT and P-metric tyres should differ in price, and publishing specific prices here could quickly make this story inaccurate. However, you can expect to see price differences of anywhere from 30% to 50% between two seemingly identical all-terrain tyres.

WHICH ONE SHOULD YOU BUY?

P-METRIC:

Mostly road driving

Lightly loaded

Occasional gravel/off-road

Comfort and fuel economy priorities

Lightweight vehicle

Rarely deflates

LT:

Heavily accessorised vehicle

Regularly carries camping/touring loads

Frequent off-road use

Regularly deflates tyres

Corrugations and rocky terrain

Long-distance/remote travel

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The post The No. 1 mistake off-roaders make when choosing an all-terrain tyre appeared first on 4WD Revolution.