Authored by Grant Spolander and Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF)

Ed’s note: The feature below was published in the July/August 2025 issue of 4WD Revolution. Click here to subscribe and receive future issues of 4WD Revolution delivered to your mailbox for free.

ARE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS DELIBERATELY AVOIDING THE DIRTY DIESEL PROBLEM?

I recall reading a story many years ago about how much it would cost to build a Fiat Uno from the parts catalogue; I think it totalled almost R1 million, at a time when the vehicle retailed for around R50k. The article wasn’t an attack on Fiat specifically, but rather illustrated that the automotive industry isn’t shy about charging hefty margins on spare parts.

But overpriced parts aren’t exactly groundbreaking news, nor are they evidence of some sinister conspiracy. But high parts prices are arguably one of the main reasons why so many people ditch their vehicles as soon as the warranty expires. The sad truth is that many of us choose to keep up with automotive debt (including the infamous balloon payment) rather than face the threat of costly repairs and spare parts.

But what if vehicle manufacturers weren’t taking steps to address a known issue in South Africa, an issue which often results in expensive repairs and subsequent parts sales? A cynical person might conclude that their failure to act was influenced by a profit motive. I don’t know. You should make up your own mind on this one.

WHY DIRTY DIESEL IS A PROBLEM

The instructions they gave me were simple: “Go to your nearest packaging supply store and buy five glass jars with sealable lids. Place the jars in your dishwasher on a hot wash. Once the drying cycle is complete and the jars are bone dry, quickly put on the lids to prevent contaminants from entering the jars. Then, visit five different fuel stations in your area (Cape Town), gather a diesel sample from each, and send the samples to our lab in JHB. When you’re next in Gauteng, come to our offices and together we’ll check the diesel quality under a microscope.”

I was chatting to Dean Puntis from Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF), and the above instructions formed part of my homework for this story. I’ve been wanting to write a feature on diesel filtration for some time, and after doing some desk research, I discovered that many leads led to UDF.

Dean wanted me to see, first hand, what the diesel quality was like in my area. I was too intrigued to turn down the offer. However, diesel quality is only part of the story…

It turns out that most modern engine manufacturers recommend a diesel filter spec of between 3 and 5 microns, whereas injector manufacturers stipulate that dirt particles should be removed down to 1 to 3 microns. Vehicle manufacturers don’t accept warranty claims stemming from dirty fuel. So, if your brand-new engine goes “pop” due to dirty diesel (and they can prove it), you’re largely on your own.

But it’s the variance between what the vehicle manufacturer recommends and what the injector manufacturer recommends that’s potentially damaging your engine. Here’s how…

POOR ATOMISATION

In modern diesel engines, fuel enters the cylinder under extremely high pressure and is atomised by the injectors into a fine mist. Proper atomisation ensures that all the available diesel is burnt, maximising energy extraction and efficiency.

But if atomisation isn’t optimal and overfueling occurs, the fuel burns during both the downward and upward strokes of the piston, raising combustion and exhaust-gas temperatures. This additional heat (which the engine isn’t designed for) not only passes through the turbocharger (causing oil breakdown and bearing failure), but can also melt pistons and cause cylinder head damage, depending on the extent of the overfueling.

“Engines and Turbochargers don’t fail for no reason, nor do injectors. There’s a reason behind the failure, and when we look closer, we find that 85 to 90% of all diesel engine failures are due to poor fuel quality, either in the form of dirt particles, water contamination, and/or viscosity” – UDF

THE DANGERS OF OVERFUELING

Even the most microscopic contaminants can disrupt the injector’s performance and the atomisation process by forming larger globules that are more difficult to atomise into a fine mist.

What’s more, contaminants can affect the injector’s performance by causing restrictions in the piston/plunger area or by wearing the delivery holes into an oval shape. As a result, instead of the diesel entering the cylinder as a fine mist, it arrives more like a jet stream or in tiny goblets. This exacerbates the problem, resulting in more unburnt fuel and higher exhaust-gas temperatures.

Unburnt diesel can pool on top of the piston, and when ignited, can result in significant carbon deposits. These deposits trap combustion heat instead of allowing it to escape through the exhaust.

Overfueling can also lead to varnishing or “washing” of the cylinder walls, which compromises the performance of the upper piston rings and may cause diesel to leak past the pistons into the sump. This process of deterioration doesn’t take months or years, either; it can occur in just a few days, depending on the severity of the overfueling.

And, because diesel and engine oil blend seamlessly together without separating, the diesel interferes with the engine oil’s performance. This leads to changes in viscosity and a decrease in the efficacy of the oil’s additives, particularly boron, which acts as a friction modifier to prevent metal-to-metal wear.

“We generally advise people to check their engine oil quality and engine oil levels regularly, especially if they’re travelling to remote areas where poor-quality diesel is a common issue. If you notice that your oil levels are rising on the dipstick or the oil is becoming thinner, it’s quite likely that your diesel is mixing with your engine oil” – UDF

WEAR CHECK

Much like blood tests can unveil underlying health problems long before you’re aware of symptoms, oil analysis can tell you everything you need to know about your 4×4’s engine health.

Engine oils contain several additives and performance markers which quickly become unbalanced if something is wrong. The most widely known oil analysis is called ‘Wear Check’, and it typically costs around R250 per test.

The information it provides is invaluable, as it immediately tells you how the oil is performing, what breakdown is occurring, the number of carbon deposits, and the wear rate on the engine.

The team at UDF uses Wear Check reports to assess the performance of their products and to extend service intervals for their clients. The principle is straightforward: the more contaminants you remove from the diesel, the better the atomisation, leading to a cleaner burn and, consequently, cleaner engine oil.

Filtering diesel to 1 micron is not a commonly recognised concept among 4×4 owners, even though it aligns with recommendations from injector manufacturers. However, the practice offers a significant financial incentive within the mining sector.

“Most major earth-moving companies in South Africa, as well as some in Australia, are utilising Ultrafine Depth Filters. One of our clients has extended their oil change intervals from every 250 hours to every 1 000+ hours. To give you an idea, an ore-moving truck requires anywhere from 120 to 185 litres of synthetic oil. Now consider a fleet of 100 such trucks, all able to extend their oil change intervals fourfold, along with the time and costs associated with oil change services; the savings amount to millions. It’s essential to note that they continually monitor oil quality to ensure the filters are functioning effectively. We’ve only had one earth-moving equipment company request the removal of our filters because they felt it was impacting their sales of replacement engine parts. Of course, these companies go beyond what the average 4×4 owner might do by incorporating engine oil bypass filtration, which further removes contaminants from the oil. But by filtering diesel to an ultrafine level, 4×4 owners can extend their oil change intervals and save a significant amount of money.” – UDF

UNDER THE MICROSCOPE

Back at the lab, I’m finally examining my homework under the microscope, feeling anxious that I might have unknowingly filled my tank with poor-quality diesel. Fortunately, most of the fuel stations I regularly visit have a relatively good reputation. One station is slightly worse than the others, but none of them is terrible. The station closest to my house looks immaculate, most likely due to the recent installation of new underground tanks.

Interestingly, busy fuel stations that constantly replenish their stocks tend to provide cleaner diesel. On the other hand, fuel stations in remote areas with tanks that have been underground or hanging in the air for decades are likely to be less reliable.

Either way, the microscope I’m looking through picks up the tiniest detail, and in the case of diesel, it’s not the big stuff you have to worry about. Most factory-fitted diesel filters easily capture large particles. It’s the quantity of the really fine stuff – usually silica – that does all the damage to your injectors.

I initially thought the diesel samples I brought from the coast would be worse than the samples collected by UDF around Johannesburg. However, when I shared this opinion with the lab technicians at UDF, they couldn’t help but laugh. “No, no, no,” they said. “Many of the samples we test around Johannesburg are horrendous!”

There are dozens of sample patches all over the UDF lab, some cleaner than others, but a number of them look like a dusty sunset over an African plain.

WHY STANDARD FILTERS AREN’T ENOUGH

Most factory-fitted filters face a challenging balancing act. They must effectively remove contaminants while allowing sufficient flow without becoming clogged before the required service intervals. For this reason, an Ultrafine filter cannot serve as the primary filter for a vehicle, as it will quickly become clogged with contaminants, restricting fuel flow.

Therefore, any filtration system that filters down to one micron should be installed in line AFTER the factory-fitted unit.

Standard diesel filters typically feature a 2-ply pleated or semi-rapped design that captures contaminants between the folds of the paper. However, what you can’t see is that smaller contaminants are captured by tiny microfibers that are barely visible to the naked eye.

Unfortunately, these microfibers are quite fragile. When exposed to vibrations, pulsation, bumps, or impacts, they tend to break off, allowing contaminants to pass through. “Watch this,” Dean says, tapping the fuel filter with his knuckle while diesel flows through their bench-test filtration machine.

Although the standard filter appears to have removed some of the ultra-fine contaminants they intentionally add to the test fuel, the moment Dean taps the filter housing, large debris is immediately visible in the output jar. As someone who has made his career out of driving 4x4s down bumpy trails, you can imagine that this revelation came as quite a shock.

“Interestingly, an old filter often does a better job of removing contaminants than a new one because the accumulated debris helps trap even more pollutants. However, the downside is that if the filter is jolted or shaken – such as when hitting a pothole or driving over corrugations – the microfibers between the pleats can break off and release the contaminants they’ve collected” – UDF

WHERE DOES DIRTY DIESEL COME FROM?

So, where do all these contaminants come from? The engineers at UDF explain, “If you’re a fuel wholesaler, the general rule is that every time you move fuel, you filter fuel. However, the reality in South Africa is quite different. Much of the supply chain and fuel transport systems are old and unfiltered.”

Interestingly, the breather pipes you see at most fuel stations have a 180-degree bend at the top to prevent dirt from entering the tanks. That’s the only safeguard – just a bend. Apart from that, there is no filtering on the breather pipes. As temperature fluctuations occur, diesel expands and contracts, which draws air into the storage tank through the breather pipe. Over time, the inhaled debris accumulates at the bottom of the tank.

The same situation applies to most vehicles, which are equipped with fuel tank breather pipes. However, these pipes often lack filters at the end of them, too. You might be wondering about the forecourt pumps that deliver the fuel to your 4×4. While the pumps do have their own filtration systems, they typically consist of 10 to 20 micron spin-on type paper filters – similar to what’s found in most cars.

Some fuel stations do see the benefits of ultrafine filtration, particularly those that supply diesel to large fleet-based companies. Consider the potential backlash if a courier company experiences multiple engine failures traced back to a single fuel source. Not only could the supplier risk losing a significant contract, but they may also be held liable for damages.

WHAT NOW?

Although aftermarket add-on diesel filters are pretty commonplace amongst off-road enthusiasts, they’re generally the type of units designed to remove water or moisture from the diesel. While this is vitally important to prevent injector-tip failure, most factory-fitted water separators work quite well.

“Although we offer aftermarket water separators, the truth is that most standard water separators are usually quite effective. The issue lies not with the separator itself but with the fact that people don’t drain the water trap often enough. We typically recommend bleeding the separator at least once a month. If this is not done, the water level can rise high enough that it gets sucked back into the fuel line and enters the fuel system, causing super-heated steam in the injector tips” – UDF

What’s truly remarkable about this topic is that although it’s well known that diesel quality in South Africa isn’t particularly good, and there have been multiple scandals involving paraffin being added to diesel to bump up profit margins – often at the expense of your engine’s longevity, very few people are aware of diesel filtration as it relates to atomisation, oil degradation, fuel economy, emissions, performance, and engine longevity.

With that in mind, I asked the UDF team, “How many 4×4 fitment shops are reselling these filters?” They replied, “In the Johannesburg area, a few. In the Cape Town area, maybe one or two.” It’s surprising because the installation process seems relatively straightforward, and the upfront cost isn’t too bad. Less than a tenth of what an injector replacement would cost you.

This raises an important question: If ultrafine filtration is affordable, readily available, easy to install, and proven to work in the cost-driven mining sector, why aren’t vehicle manufacturers including it as a factory option? It’s an especially relevant question considering the numerous scandals surrounding diesel quality in South Africa.

I pose the same question to Dean, who replies, “In their defence, the vehicle manufacturers aren’t to blame for South Africa’s poor diesel quality. And the same wear and tear happens in overseas markets, but it just happens a whole lot faster in SA due to our diesel. As for why they don’t fit finer filters to combat the issue? I suppose that could relate to the service plan and the fact that an ultrafine filter may increase the number of service intervals needed per year just to replace the diesel filter. All in all, it’s a uniquely South African problem. And we’re small fish in a big global pond”.

Click here to contact UDF, or enter your email below to receive a free bi-monthly copy of 4WD Revolution.

The post KILLER DIESEL appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

We all recognise the challenge…

A camping fridge is a must-have, but they occupy a lot of packing space, you need to keep items clear of their access, and getting one to fit through a canopy opening or under an SUV’s rear door can be a problem if the fridge is mounted on top of a drawer system.

Till now, the solution has been to access the fridge via a gullwing or canopy side door. Alternatively, purchase a drop-down fridge slide that either tilts (where you can’t fully see inside the fridge) or levers downwards but comes at a premium price.

Regardless, the fridge still occupies space above the drawers, and you still need to pack so that nothing interferes with its access and operation.

ENTER: THE DRAWER FRIDGE

The solution to these issues (and more) is surprisingly simple, and it’s hard to believe it isn’t already a mainstream concept.

The big hurdle has always been the compressor. Because 12V fridges typically have their power unit mounted in the bottom half of the fridge’s housing, the overall height of the unit prohibits most fridges from being incorporated inside a drawer system.

With that in mind, National Luna reengineered their current fridge design so that the compressor, fan, and much of the internal pipework are mounted in an external frame on the far side of the fridge. They then moved away from their usual control panel location and mounted the faceplate in the front.

THE RESULT?

A super low-profile drawer fridge that can either “drop” into an existing drawer system or be integrated into a custom setup.

Commercial drawer manufacturers – like Bushtech – are already incorporating the new fridge into their product offering and are due to launch an “off-the-shelf” solution that can accommodate the new drawer fridge.

AVAILABLE DRAWER FRIDGE OPTIONS

For now, the fridges are available in four options:

• 60-litre dual control
• 60-litre single control
• 40-litre dual control
• 40-litre single control

The drawer-fridge concept becomes even more intriguing when considering that two units can be mounted side by side, offering anywhere between 80 and 120 litres of combined easy-access fridge/freezer volume. It will also be interesting to see what off-road trailer manufacturers do with the concept.

CUSTOM SETUP

Being in the market for a drawer system, I was about to pull the trigger on a popular commercial option when I caught wind of National Luna’s new prototype fridge. I immediately asked if I could see drawings of the unit, and as soon as I understood its benefits, I knew that a custom storage system was what I was looking for. I just had to convince National Luna to lend me their 60-litre prototype and find a custom drawer manufacturer willing to tackle the job.

Fortunately, South Africa has no shortage of highly skilled custom builders. After seeing the drawers RockShockerz (Paarl) built for my mate’s Ranger double-cab, I was keen to have them design a storage system around the new fridge. (Tip: Check out the custom drawers made by Overland Bros if you’re in the JHB area)

Ultimately, the custom setup didn’t cost more than a commercial option. However, it’s precisely what I had in mind, particularly regarding dual vertical drawers and integrating the new fridge.   

I have little doubt the drawer-fridge concept will succeed in the market, particularly if it can drop into an off-the-shelf drawer system slightly deeper than usual. The question is, which commercial drawer manufacturer will first accommodate the concept and get a head start in the market?

Rest assured, we’ll update you when that happens, so join our mailing list here to stay tuned, or fill in the form below.

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Authored by TyreLife Solutions

First some background. When it comes to buying off-road tyres, there’s little doubt that Light Truck (LT) variant tyres should be at the top of your shopping list, especially if you intend to drive off-road, tow a trailer (or caravan or boat), or heavily modify your vehicle with aftermarket accessories. You see, LT tyres have stronger carcasses, deeper treads, tougher compounds, and they’re capable of carrying heavier loads than their P-Metric equivalents. P-Metric is industry shorthand for passenger vehicle. 

What many don’t realise is that the vast majority of all-terrain tyres (or ATs as they’re often commonly called) are P-Metric variants. So, although the tread pattern may suggest it’s an off-road tyre, the truth is that most P-metric tyres have poor load-carrying capabilities, limited puncture resistance, wear much faster, and offer little off-road durability against cuts and stone damage – when compared to an LT variant.

The interesting thing about mud-terrain tyres is that most of them are LT variants. It’s only in the all-terrain sector that the confusion occurs, and that’s because the visual differences between an LT and a P-Metric all-terrain are not always noticeable. There is no P-Metric lettering, so unless it says LT on the sidewall, you can safely assume it’s a P-Metric. Aside from this easily-overlooked sidewall detail, the two types of tyres may look identical in every other respect. 

Bottom line, if you want a true off-road tyre which can handle off-road terrain without sustaining punctures, sidewall damage, or total tread destruction, you need an LT variant tyre so make sure you can see the letters’ LT’ on the sidewall. But why would vehicle manufacturers knowingly fit ‘inferior’ P-Metric tyres to their 4WD offerings? Two reasons…

Firstly, they’re competing against other vehicle manufacturers in the arenas of fuel economy, driving comfort, and emission standards – and these are all areas directly affected by the weight, strength and rigidity of the vehicle’s tyres. And secondly, vehicle manufacturers have to consider economics and retail price. Given that LT tyres can cost more than double their P-Metric alternatives, fitting LTs as standard spec to a vehicle would increase its cost which could lead to fewer sales. 

FUEL ECONOMY

So we’re back to the burning question, “Will an all-terrain or mud-terrain tyre affect my vehicle’s fuel consumption?” The short answer is yes. An aggressive tread design plays a big role in fuel economy, and that’s because large tread lugs typically have more wind drag and a higher rolling resistance.

However, there’s more to the subject of fuel economy than just tread design. Although certain tread patterns and compounds might offer up more rolling resistance, the tyre’s overall mass has the greater impact on fuel consumption. Heavy tyres require more energy to turn, and in most cases, LT tyres are considerably heavier than P-Metrics, sometimes up to 40% heavier! Hence the added fuel use. Naturally, if you also decide to fit a larger tyre than the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended diameter, this will also negatively impact fuel economy.

Finally, one should also remember that not all LT tyres are constructed equally; other factors, such as compound quality, steel reinforcement, steel gauge, and nylon-cord quantity and quality, come into play when choosing between brands. On that note, the decision to replace your factory-fitted P-metric tyres with a Light Truck tyre shouldn’t be taken lightly. The downside is a slight (but noticeable) decrease in fuel efficiency. The upsides are:

• Longer service life
• Significantly better puncture resistance
• Significantly better resistance to sidewall damage
• Better heat resistance
• Greater load-carrying capacity
• Vast improvement in off-road durability
• Better steering response due to stiffer sidewalls

Do your sums carefully. It’s often possible that the fuel consumption trade-off is more than offset by the advantages offered. Now that you know the facts, you can make an educated decision. 

The post Do Off-Road Tyres Use More Fuel? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Arguably one of the most remote wilderness areas in Southern Africa, the great Makgadikgadi Pans of Botswana are the largest salt pans in the world!

Kingsley Holgate and his son Ross almost lost their lives trying to circumnavigate these pans on wind yachts. So, don’t be fooled. As beautiful as they are, they are also dangerous.

Having visited the Makgadikgadi numerous times, I’ve learned one or two things about driving on these deceptive pans. If you’re headed there anytime soon, here are some self-drive tips to help you along the way.

Solo – NEVER venture onto the pans alone!

Season – Do not attempt to cross the pans in the “wet season” unless you’re with an experienced guide.

Tyres – Deflate your tyres BEFORE entering the pans. Waiting to get stuck is not the answer.

Speed – Try maintaining a constant speed of around 50 – 60 km/h. You want your momentum to be enough to get you through the wet patches.

Tracks – When driving in convoy, watch the tracks in front of you. If you see the crust is broken and shows signs of wet ground, avoid the leading vehicle’s tracks.

Edge – If the overall surface looks wet, don’t try to cut across the pans – this is where many people get stuck. Stick to what is known as the “pans edge,” which is usually drier and firmer. Having said that, still be alert!

Snatch – If you are stuck, stay calm and don’t spin your tyres – that will only worsen things. Assess the situation and remember that a traditional “snatch” recovery will likely not work, as the recovery vehicle will probably also get bogged.

Manpower – Experience has taught me the best way to free yourself is to dig soil away from the front of the tyres, and then use manpower in the form of friends pushing you free. Recovery tracks will definitely help. However, you must get them under the tyres before attempting the recovery.

Mud – Once you’re off the pans, remember to clear your rims of mud. You might think you have a tyre balance issue if you don’t!

Salt – The mud of the Makgadikgadi Pans is extremely salty and can cause corrosion. Clean mud off your vehicle’s sensors with a high- pressure cleaner as soon as possible.

The post Makgadikgadi Pans Self Drive Tips appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Feel free to download all back issues here.

The post THANKS FOR SUBSCRIBING! appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

In This Issue:

• Anysberg Nature Reserve – Destination review.
• The true benefit of a snorkel.
• What it takes to tackle the Cape Route Rally.
• Does engine oil really expire within a year?
• How to use a winch damper, the right way?
• Malawi – When plans fail.
• National Luna 45L Travel Box.
• Off-road insurance with Tuffstuff Insurance.

The post NOV / DEC 24 ISSUE appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

In this copy of 4WD Revolution…

SIX OF THE BEST

We asked the folks at Tracks4Africa and ZA TRAX for their favourite Richtersveld campsites. Here’s what they had to say. Read more.

JUMBO JIM

How to fit bigger tyres to a Jimny Gen 4. Read more.

FATTIES OR SKINNIES

The arguments for wide vs narrow tyres for your 4×4. Read more.

HARD LIFE

How a loan Hardbody looks after SA’s busiest mountain bike region. Read more.

MAKGADIKGADI PANS

Driving tips for the Makgadikgadi Pans. Read more.

LITHIUM vs LEAD ACID

The pros & cons of a lithium dual-battery system. Read more.

The post SEPT / OCT 24 ISSUE appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

But before you turn to a cargo trailer as the answer, consider the hassle of towing, licensing, storing and maintaining that trailer. No, what you need – what most campers need – is a roof rack.

BENEFITS OF A ROOF RACK

An expedition-style roof rack doesn’t just double or triple your vehicle’s packing space; it also serves as a foundation for many more add-ons and improvements, such as an awning, rooftop tent, or even outdoor shower.

Fortunately, South Africa produces some of the world’s best roof racks. But amongst those, few rival Eezi-Awn and their 40+ year history serving the camping / overland market.

Famously known as the inventor of present-shape rooftop tents in 1989, today, Eezi-Awn boasts dozens of overland solutions, including a wide range of expedition roof racks that have travelled to every corner of the globe. If you’re still unconvinced, here are five more reasons you should choose an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack.

1) EXPEDITION ROOF RACK

One of the unique features of an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack is its expedition-style construction and double-slat design. Unlike other racks that only have lateral slats running in one direction, an Eezi-Awn rack is supported longitudinally and laterally. 

This means the rack can carry significantly more weight without the slats bending or fatiguing on corrugated roads. It also means the gaps between the slats are smaller, so loose items (like bags of firewood) are less likely to shift between them. 

More importantly, the slats are rigid and don’t bow when you walk on them, so the roof rack can be mounted super close to your vehicle’s roof line. This brings us to the next point…

2) A TRULY LOW-PROFILE ROOF RACK

The ability to mount a roof rack as low as possible makes it look less like a bulky afterthought and more like a factory-fitted item. It also helps reduce wind noise and resistance and provides better clearance for underground parking.

3) SIMPLE MOUNTING SYSTEM

Eezi-Awn K9 roof racks are renowned for their simple yet sturdy mounting system. Unlike other racks, which use small, intricate tools that easily strip or round their edges, Eezi-Awn’s mounting system is super simple and robust, using standard tool sizes that won’t strip if you regularly remove the rack.

4) ROOF RACK ACCESSORIES

One advantage of choosing an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack is the wide range of accessories that work seamlessly with the rack. This allows you to customise your roof rack with everything from jerry-can holders and high-lift jack mounts to awnings and rooftop tents.

5) HISTORY & INNOVATION

As mentioned before, Eezi-Awn manufactured the first rooftop tents in Southern Africa, which profoundly influenced how people camp and travel worldwide. Since then, the company has remained at the forefront of innovation and overland travel.

In its most basic sense, an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack will significantly improve your vehicle’s packing space and versatility, but beyond that, it’s a long-term investment from a long-term company that shows no signs of taking a back seat.

Click here for more information on Eezi-Awn K9 roof racks.

The post Why Choose An Eezi-Awn Roof Rack appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Back in 2018, National Luna launched a new battery-box option that their customers nicknamed : ‘The Black Box’. The product featured a patented faceplate design that was a big leap forward from their original Portable Power Pack (Aka: The Grey Box) where the plug points are mounted on the side of the unit.

The Black Box’s stepped layout allowed National Luna to mount a larger number of output and input power points. What’s more, because the plug ports are positioned at the front of the box, it makes them easier to access.

The design must’ve been a big success, because a short while later the South African company launched several more battery box options. This included their taller Blue Box, the 25A DC-DC Green Box, and more recently, their flagship 40A DC-DC Green Box with a distinguishable black lid.

With the exception of the original Grey Box, all four battery-box solutions feature the new stepped faceplate design. However, after heeding to their customers calls, they recently redesigned their Grey Box system so that the Gen 2 model utilises the same stepped faceplate layout.

They also added Bluetooth connectivity to the unit – compatible with the NL Connect app – as well as a dual-battery display that shows:

• Battery voltage
• Input charge current
• Output load current

BLUETOOTH CONNECTION

The Bluetooth app is available for both Apple and Android devices; it’s quick to download and easy to navigate. Use the serial number on the side of the box as the password when connecting to the Portable Power Pack.

Because the Grey Box uses a split-charging system that can be connected to your vehicle’s alternator, the box and the app both display the voltage of your vehicle’s main cranking battery, as well as the auxiliary battery’s voltage in the box itself.

The app will also tell you if the auxiliary battery is receiving a charge, or if it’s currently being discharged. It also details whether a 220V battery charger is connected, or if the unit is on standby.

However, the feature I like most is the app’s ability to tell you how many amps are being drawn from the auxiliary battery. This information quickly tells you how much power your fridge is drawing, as well as any other connected loads, such as a cell-phone charger, LED camping light, or even a 12V air compressor.

Actually, it’s not just the app which shows you this information, if you hold down the ‘V/A’ button on either side of the box’s voltage meters, the digital dials flip between showing how many volts are left in the battery, to how many amps are being drawn.

An additional 15A input plug point allows you to connect a solar panel – provided you have a solar regulator – that you can then monitor in terms of input charge.

And finally, the unit also boasts a configurable start timer and low-battery warning that can be adjusted to suit a variety of applications.

Other features of the Grey Box include…

• A split-charging system
• Four USB charge ports
• Two 12V DC sockets (Cigar)
• Two Hella-type sockets
• Two 50A Grey coupler plugs
• NL5 Intelligent Charger port (charger available separately)

NOTE: If you can’t decide between a relay-based dual-battery system (Grey Box), or a DC-DC based dual-battery system (Green Box), then the following link may help. The article details the pros and cons of relay- versus DC-DC split-charging systems: https://4wdrevolution.com/which-dual-battery-system-is-best/

Join our newsletter here to get future product announcements and 4WD news

The post National Luna’s new portable power pack (grey box) with Bluetooth connectivity appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

I asked the same question to several 4×4 trainers to see if commonality appeared in their answers. The question was: “If you could teach only 4 off-road tips, what would they be?”.

In truth, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Would they have wildly different advice, or would a general theme appear? I’ll let you decide the result.

See their answers below…

BERNIE WILLIAMS

4X4 training provider and off-road tour guide (Gauteng)

1) Engage your brain before you engage 4WD! Off-road driving is NOT instinctive; you need to think about what you are doing.

2) Adjust your tyre pressures for the terrain you’re driving, preferably beforehand.

3) Traction determines which gear you should be in and how much momentum is needed.

4) Know your vehicle’s strengths and weaknesses. That includes your tyres.

Contact Bernie here

TRAVIS DUGGAN

4X4 training provider and off-road tour guide (KwaZulu Natal)

1) Know your vehicle’s 4WD system, driving aids, and how/when to engage them.

2) Make sure your tyre choice and pressures are suited to the terrain you’re tackling. Adjusting your pressures – before driving a specific terrain – will significantly minimise the risk of getting stuck.

3) Make sure your vehicle is lined up with the obstacle you’re attempting. Choose your line carefully by keeping the vehicle on the high points as much as you can. Don’t fight the vehicle into a position; let it find its own path within reason, and keep your line as straight as possible.

4) Know when to quit. If your vehicle is struggling to overcome an obstacle, stop before things get worse and reassess the situation.

Contact Travis here

GERHARD GROENEWALD

4X4 training provider and off-road tour guide (Western Cape)

1) Select the correct tyre pressure for the terrain you’re driving.

2) Consider your driving line, which includes wheel placement and knowing how that relates to your vehicle’s lowest point and undercarriage.

3) Traction determines how much momentum is needed. Finding the correct balance between the two is the sweet spot.

4. Plan your escape route before entering a difficult obstacle. Remember that gravity makes steering useless on a steep slope while reversing.

Contact Gerhard here

ROBERT PEPPER

Driving instructor, book author and technical writer (Australia)

1) Always think: What if? Off-road driving is inherently risky, so never drive anywhere without a clear idea of what you’ll do if things go wrong… as they often do.

2) Understand why off-roading is complex. Road drivers can get away with knowing that one pedal makes them go faster and the other slower. However, in tough off-road situations you need to know how things work in terms of differentials, tyres and traction.

3) Push the limits beforehand on shorter trips. Attempt that tough hill, winch, change a tyre on a slope, bog yourself in sand, or use your comms gear. Then, whatever happens on your longer riskier trips, it’ll be easy by comparison.

4) It may seem overwhelming, but start small. You acquire off-road skills and knowledge like any other adventure hobby: training, clubs, reading, and slowly working up to the tough stuff.

Contact Robert here

FRANCOIS MARAIS

4X4 training provider and off-road tour guide (Western Cape)

1) Know and trust your vehicle. It’s essential to know the capabilities, limitations, features and systems of your 4WD.

2) Inspect the track and plan your route through challenging obstacles. Remember to think of your rear wheels, too! If the plan fails: Go back, reassess, and redo it. It’s better to do it over than overdo it.

3) The better the traction, the less momentum is needed. Adjust accordingly.

4) Think! Use your knowledge and experience before using your right foot excessively.

Contact Francois here

GLYN DEMMER

4X4 training provider, author, and off-road tour guide (Gauteng)

1) Your driving position matters. You should always be comfortably seated and in a position that ensures you are not pulled/pushed from the steering wheel when ascending/descending a slope.

2) Keep your seatbelt on, and your thumbs away from the steering wheel spokes to avoid a possible “kickback” injury.

3) The dynamics of an off-road vehicle are different to a road car in terms of centre-of-gravity and stopping distances. Keep these things in mind and adjust your speed accordingly.

4) A critical off-road skill is the ability to select or “read” a line”. A good line allows you to keep all four wheels in contact with the terrain. Knowing how to read a line, coupled with the knowledge of your vehicle, will enhance your off-road experience.

Contact Glyn at gdemmer@mweb.co.za

BRENT CLARK

4X4 training provider and off-road tour guide (Eastern Cape)

1) Get yourself and your partner onto an off-road training course with a reputable trainer so that you understand your vehicle’s off-road systems and limitations.

2) Establish what you want to use your vehicle for, as this will guide you in terms of what needs upgrading. Whilst most vehicles are competent in stock form, their tyres are mostly road-biased and in need of an upgrade.

3) Invest in good-quality recovery gear.

4 An accurate tyre gauge is essential in matching your tyre pressures to the traction/terrain.

Contact Brent here

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