We all recognise the challenge…

A camping fridge is a must-have, but they occupy a lot of packing space, you need to keep items clear of their access, and getting one to fit through a canopy opening or under an SUV’s rear door can be a problem if the fridge is mounted on top of a drawer system.

Till now, the solution has been to access the fridge via a gullwing or canopy side door. Alternatively, purchase a drop-down fridge slide that either tilts (where you can’t fully see inside the fridge) or levers downwards but comes at a premium price.

Regardless, the fridge still occupies space above the drawers, and you still need to pack so that nothing interferes with its access and operation.

ENTER: THE DRAWER FRIDGE

The solution to these issues (and more) is surprisingly simple, and it’s hard to believe it isn’t already a mainstream concept.

The big hurdle has always been the compressor. Because 12V fridges typically have their power unit mounted in the bottom half of the fridge’s housing, the overall height of the unit prohibits most fridges from being incorporated inside a drawer system.

With that in mind, National Luna reengineered their current fridge design so that the compressor, fan, and much of the internal pipework are mounted in an external frame on the far side of the fridge. They then moved away from their usual control panel location and mounted the faceplate in the front.

THE RESULT?

A super low-profile drawer fridge that can either “drop” into an existing drawer system or be integrated into a custom setup.

Commercial drawer manufacturers – like Bushtech – are already incorporating the new fridge into their product offering and are due to launch an “off-the-shelf” solution that can accommodate the new drawer fridge.

AVAILABLE DRAWER FRIDGE OPTIONS

For now, the fridges are available in four options:

• 60-litre dual control
• 60-litre single control
• 40-litre dual control
• 40-litre single control

The drawer-fridge concept becomes even more intriguing when considering that two units can be mounted side by side, offering anywhere between 80 and 120 litres of combined easy-access fridge/freezer volume. It will also be interesting to see what off-road trailer manufacturers do with the concept.

CUSTOM SETUP

Being in the market for a drawer system, I was about to pull the trigger on a popular commercial option when I caught wind of National Luna’s new prototype fridge. I immediately asked if I could see drawings of the unit, and as soon as I understood its benefits, I knew that a custom storage system was what I was looking for. I just had to convince National Luna to lend me their 60-litre prototype and find a custom drawer manufacturer willing to tackle the job.

Fortunately, South Africa has no shortage of highly skilled custom builders. After seeing the drawers RockShockerz (Paarl) built for my mate’s Ranger double-cab, I was keen to have them design a storage system around the new fridge. (Tip: Check out the custom drawers made by Overland Bros if you’re in the JHB area)

Ultimately, the custom setup didn’t cost more than a commercial option. However, it’s precisely what I had in mind, particularly regarding dual vertical drawers and integrating the new fridge.   

I have little doubt the drawer-fridge concept will succeed in the market, particularly if it can drop into an off-the-shelf drawer system slightly deeper than usual. The question is, which commercial drawer manufacturer will first accommodate the concept and get a head start in the market?

Rest assured, we’ll update you when that happens, so join our mailing list here to stay tuned, or fill in the form below.

The post National Luna 12V Drawer Fridge / Freezer appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

But before you turn to a cargo trailer as the answer, consider the hassle of towing, licensing, storing and maintaining that trailer. No, what you need – what most campers need – is a roof rack.

BENEFITS OF A ROOF RACK

An expedition-style roof rack doesn’t just double or triple your vehicle’s packing space; it also serves as a foundation for many more add-ons and improvements, such as an awning, rooftop tent, or even outdoor shower.

Fortunately, South Africa produces some of the world’s best roof racks. But amongst those, few rival Eezi-Awn and their 40+ year history serving the camping / overland market.

Famously known as the inventor of present-shape rooftop tents in 1989, today, Eezi-Awn boasts dozens of overland solutions, including a wide range of expedition roof racks that have travelled to every corner of the globe. If you’re still unconvinced, here are five more reasons you should choose an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack.

1) EXPEDITION ROOF RACK

One of the unique features of an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack is its expedition-style construction and double-slat design. Unlike other racks that only have lateral slats running in one direction, an Eezi-Awn rack is supported longitudinally and laterally. 

This means the rack can carry significantly more weight without the slats bending or fatiguing on corrugated roads. It also means the gaps between the slats are smaller, so loose items (like bags of firewood) are less likely to shift between them. 

More importantly, the slats are rigid and don’t bow when you walk on them, so the roof rack can be mounted super close to your vehicle’s roof line. This brings us to the next point…

2) A TRULY LOW-PROFILE ROOF RACK

The ability to mount a roof rack as low as possible makes it look less like a bulky afterthought and more like a factory-fitted item. It also helps reduce wind noise and resistance and provides better clearance for underground parking.

3) SIMPLE MOUNTING SYSTEM

Eezi-Awn K9 roof racks are renowned for their simple yet sturdy mounting system. Unlike other racks, which use small, intricate tools that easily strip or round their edges, Eezi-Awn’s mounting system is super simple and robust, using standard tool sizes that won’t strip if you regularly remove the rack.

4) ROOF RACK ACCESSORIES

One advantage of choosing an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack is the wide range of accessories that work seamlessly with the rack. This allows you to customise your roof rack with everything from jerry-can holders and high-lift jack mounts to awnings and rooftop tents.

5) HISTORY & INNOVATION

As mentioned before, Eezi-Awn manufactured the first rooftop tents in Southern Africa, which profoundly influenced how people camp and travel worldwide. Since then, the company has remained at the forefront of innovation and overland travel.

In its most basic sense, an Eezi-Awn K9 roof rack will significantly improve your vehicle’s packing space and versatility, but beyond that, it’s a long-term investment from a long-term company that shows no signs of taking a back seat.

Click here for more information on Eezi-Awn K9 roof racks.

The post Why Choose An Eezi-Awn Roof Rack appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Back in 2018, National Luna launched a new battery-box option that their customers nicknamed : ‘The Black Box’. The product featured a patented faceplate design that was a big leap forward from their original Portable Power Pack (Aka: The Grey Box) where the plug points are mounted on the side of the unit.

The Black Box’s stepped layout allowed National Luna to mount a larger number of output and input power points. What’s more, because the plug ports are positioned at the front of the box, it makes them easier to access.

The design must’ve been a big success, because a short while later the South African company launched several more battery box options. This included their taller Blue Box, the 25A DC-DC Green Box, and more recently, their flagship 40A DC-DC Green Box with a distinguishable black lid.

With the exception of the original Grey Box, all four battery-box solutions feature the new stepped faceplate design. However, after heeding to their customers calls, they recently redesigned their Grey Box system so that the Gen 2 model utilises the same stepped faceplate layout.

They also added Bluetooth connectivity to the unit – compatible with the NL Connect app – as well as a dual-battery display that shows:

• Battery voltage
• Input charge current
• Output load current

BLUETOOTH CONNECTION

The Bluetooth app is available for both Apple and Android devices; it’s quick to download and easy to navigate. Use the serial number on the side of the box as the password when connecting to the Portable Power Pack.

Because the Grey Box uses a split-charging system that can be connected to your vehicle’s alternator, the box and the app both display the voltage of your vehicle’s main cranking battery, as well as the auxiliary battery’s voltage in the box itself.

The app will also tell you if the auxiliary battery is receiving a charge, or if it’s currently being discharged. It also details whether a 220V battery charger is connected, or if the unit is on standby.

However, the feature I like most is the app’s ability to tell you how many amps are being drawn from the auxiliary battery. This information quickly tells you how much power your fridge is drawing, as well as any other connected loads, such as a cell-phone charger, LED camping light, or even a 12V air compressor.

Actually, it’s not just the app which shows you this information, if you hold down the ‘V/A’ button on either side of the box’s voltage meters, the digital dials flip between showing how many volts are left in the battery, to how many amps are being drawn.

An additional 15A input plug point allows you to connect a solar panel – provided you have a solar regulator – that you can then monitor in terms of input charge.

And finally, the unit also boasts a configurable start timer and low-battery warning that can be adjusted to suit a variety of applications.

Other features of the Grey Box include…

• A split-charging system
• Four USB charge ports
• Two 12V DC sockets (Cigar)
• Two Hella-type sockets
• Two 50A Grey coupler plugs
• NL5 Intelligent Charger port (charger available separately)

NOTE: If you can’t decide between a relay-based dual-battery system (Grey Box), or a DC-DC based dual-battery system (Green Box), then the following link may help. The article details the pros and cons of relay- versus DC-DC split-charging systems: https://4wdrevolution.com/which-dual-battery-system-is-best/

Join our newsletter here to get future product announcements and 4WD news

The post National Luna’s new portable power pack (grey box) with Bluetooth connectivity appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Because off-road situations can vary so greatly, there are very few absolute truths when it comes to off-road driving techniques. Most of the time, it comes down to experience, i.e. know your limits, know your vehicle’s limits, and know how that relates to a variety of terrain types.

In my view, the best 4×4 instructors are the ones who help you determine those limits (safely), so that you don’t have to learn them the hard way. On that note, here are four things to consider when choosing the right 4×4 instructor.

TERRAIN

When picking a 4×4 driving instructor, it’s a good idea to start with your intended vehicle use. Generally speaking, 4×4 trail driving on the weekend is focused around intentionally seeking obstacles that push you and your vehicle to the limits. Overland travel on the other hand, is all about protecting your vehicle and avoiding unnecessary risks.

In both cases, you should know how to navigate a variety of obstacles, but if you intend to heavily kit out your vehicle, and travel long distances to remote places, you should aim to find an off-road driving instructor who has experience in overland travel.

In some cases, you can find a 4×4 instructor who also works as an off-road tour operator. It’s a good sign if the tour company’s trips are regularly booked up, too. Tour operators also tend to think “risk first”, which includes: vehicle preservation, and just as important, tyre protection.

TYRE TRAINING

I would be very suspicions of any 4×4 instructor who doesn’t focus heavily on tyre training. Learning about your 4×4 without learning about your tyres, is like learning about hunting rifles without learning about bullet ballistics.

That said, you need to know your tyres’ strengths, weaknesses, and how to look after them. For example: While tyre deflation is obviously beneficial in terms of off-road traction, Light Truck tyres that are designed to be puncture resistant and durable under heavy loads, are going to be more susceptible to cracking if the tyre is severely under inflated. 

In short: Proper 4×4 instruction needs to include what your tyres (not just your vehicle) can and can’t do.

RECOVERY RISKS

Ironically, when accidents do happen off-road, it’s generally in response to a bad situation, rather than the bad situation itself.

A common example of this is when a vehicle is heavily bogged down in sand or mud – which isn’t the end of the world – but instead of using the correct equipment to free the stuck vehicle, a tow rope is used in haste. Inevitably, something hard- and heavy breaks free from the bogged-down vehicle and hurtles through the driver’s cranium.

Knowing how to safely recover a 4×4 is like a fighter learning how to take a punch, rather than just knowing how to throw one. That said, some 4×4 training courses may not delve into the recovery aspect of off-road driving in just one day. You may need to do a 2- or 3-day course to cover that information.

ONE ON ONE, OR GROUP THERAPY?

Fortunately, I’ve had the privilege of training one-on-one with some of South Africa’s most well respected 4×4 instructors; I’ve also attended several courses with large corporate groups and motoring journos. Although I’d definitely say you’re going to learn more when training one-on-one, it’s often helpful to see how various people respond to various off-road challenges. Or put another way: It’s often helpful to see what NOT to do. That’s not to say I haven’t made mistakes off-road (I have… many, many times), however, when you get to watch someone else mess up, it can often be a great learning tool.

The post 4×4 off-road training: Choosing the right instructor appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Unless you’re using a foldable solar panel for camping, such as Flexopower’s popular BAJA 105 and NAMIB 150 products, you may be tempted to save boot space by mounting your solar panel on your vehicle’s roof, or, on the roof of your off-road trailer / caravan.

This is especially true for campers using large-size solar panels that won’t fit in the boot- or load-bin area of their vehicle.

Of course, there’s nothing wrong with mounting your solar panel on your vehicle’s roof; panels such as the Tacoma-130 (which are popular on trailers and campers) feature a semi-flexible design that’s purposefully made to follow the curvature of a vehicle’s roof.

However, a panel-killing problem may exist in how the panel is mounted.

Because roof-mounted panels are subject to aerodynamic fluttering, any gap between the panel and the roof itself will likely cause your panel to flutter its way to an early death. Sadly, many campers make the mistake of thinking that their solar panel is securely strapped down and that no movement is possible.

The reality, however, is that wind turbulence can’t be tampered down, and after prolonged exposure this wind-fluttering effect will gradually cause the cells to disconnect. The result is a continuous loss of power until the solar panel eventually fails outright.

Here’s a real-life example…

Some time ago a Flexopower client installed three Tacoma-130 panels on his off-road trailer. After just 2 road trips, all three panels stopped working at exactly the same time with zero output!

Flexopower replaced all three panels under warranty, however, 6-months later the same customer reported that the three newly installed panels had failed again! 

An inspection of the installation quickly revealed that there were noticeable gaps between the panels and the roof. The panels were all adequately secured to the roof structure, however, the side edges were not quite sealed against the airflow. The resulting air ingress caused all three solar panels to flutter.

To confirm this effect, Flexopower mounted a camera on the vehicle’s roof, where it became clear that the panels started to flutter at approximately 40km/h. Naturally, things got worse as the vehicle’s speed was increased.

So what’s the solution? Firstly, it must be said that any semi-flexible panel will fail if subjected to wind fluttering. The air gap between the panel(s) and the roof should be sealed on all sides of the panel, not just the front.

Give Flexopower a call on (011) 658 0500 for more solar advice in terms of…

• What size solar panel you need?
• Should you use a semi-flexible panel, or a foldable unit?
• How much dual-battery power is enough

The post WHY YOUR SOLAR PANEL MAY BE DYING AN EARLY DEATH appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

You can read that blog piece here, otherwise, here’s the summarised version…

Although a 40A DC-DC charger appears to be the ultimate dual-battery solution, the benefit of using a 40A charger is only truly seen during the ‘bulk’ stage of the recharge cycle. 

Once you include the ‘absorption’ stage in the overall process, the total recharge time is similar for both a 25A and 40A DC-DC system.

This is because the total recharge time is determined by the battery’s technology, and not the charger itself. Simply put: The battery is the limiting factor, not the DC-DC!

However, because a 40A DC-DC charger will reduce the bulk charging time of your auxiliary battery, the real benefits are realised when you need to quickly replace used energy within the first 3-hours of driving. 

If you’re using a lithium battery, you could potentially knock that time down to 2-hours.

NATIONAL LUNA’S NEW 40A GREEN BOX

With the above points in mind, National Luna is due to launch a brand new 40A DC-DC power pack. It will be the first of its kind on the market, and further cements the company’s position as a global leader in dual-battery solutions. 

National Luna previously launched a 25A DC-DC portable power pack in 2019 (aka: The Green Box). Due to the success of that product worldwide, and calls for a 40A version, they’re now launching a far punchier unit, one that incorporates their built-in 40A DC-DC charger. 

25A GREEN BOX vs 40A GREEN BOX

So why would you want a 40A DC-DC power pack instead of a 25A unit? Well, the higher amperage is beneficial when…

• You want a much faster charging time within the first 3-hours of driving – which is arguably where it matters most
• You have a large capacity battery
• You want the extra solar capabilities
• You’re powering a load (a fridge or another appliance) at the same time as charging the battery
• You have an alternative power source such as a wind generator

JOIN our newsletter here for future product announcements

Other features of the 40A National Luna Green Box include: 

Plug ’n play solar input

Lithium-ion compatibility

Built-in battery voltage meter

220V input charging port

Customisable faceplate with multiple power inputs

True 40A output current

5-stage intelligent charge algorithm

AGM, Gel, Wet, Calcium, Lithium-Ion support

Alternator input up to 32V

40A, 600W MPPT solar regulator

Supports solar panels up to 42V

Separate auxiliary DC input up to 32V

Smart-alternator compatible

Battery temperature compensation for safe charging

Short-circuit protected

Reverse-polarity protected

Over-voltage protected

Over-temperature protected

JOIN our newsletter here for future product announcements

The post National Luna’s new 40A DC-DC Green Box appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

One of my favourite pastimes on the weekend is classic-car restoration. But as any jalopy owner will tell you, the greatest challenge of any restoration project is… Rust!

Needless to say, when it comes to rust, shortcuts are the enemy. A shortcut today creates double the work tomorrow. So from that perspective, “de-rusting” automotive parts is a time consuming job that requires lots of elbow grease.

What’s more, the process often involves many conflicting arguments such as, “Okay, that’s good enough, I’ve got all the rust”. Which is then met with a nagging sensation that says, “Stop being lazy, you know the rust will come back, so do the job right the first time!”

Well, that all changed when I stumbled upon two great products that should be in every garage man’s tool cabinet: EVAPO-RUST and Zinc-It!

I recently gave both products a try on a set of headlight mounting rings. The steel rings were pretty badly rusted and the retaining screws required several squirts of Q20 beforehand to loosen them up.

Once that was done, I dropped the rings into a bath of EVAPO-RUST for roughly 24-hours and waited for the results.

Much to my surprise, the rings needed no further scrubbing or brushing; I just rinsed them off with water, allowed them to dry, and then gave them a liberal coat of Zinc-It.

I followed the Zinc-It coat with a fresh coat of black spray paint, and mounted the rings to the new headlights. Viola, job done! No cursing, no elbow grease, and no back-and-forth arguments where laziness and guilt-trips battle it out.

I’m now excitedly looking for more rust covered components that I can restore.     

The post How to remove rust from an old car – best product appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Is a 40 amp DC-DC charger better than a 25 amp unit?

Not necessarily. National Luna explains why…

QUESTION

I’ve got my heart set on a DC-DC setup, purely because I like the ease at which solar power can be added to the system. My question is: What size DC-DC charger do I need? Should I be considering a 40 amp unit instead of the typical 20- to 25 amp charger? I know there’s a price difference, but is bigger better?

ANSWER

The limitation of any 20A or 25A DC-DC system is the fact that the battery’s recharge rate is restricted to just 25 amps or less. This is particularly important during the ‘bulk stage’ of the recharge process.

On that note, the following graph depicts the recharge curves of a 25A versus a 40A DC-DC charger. This test was conducted using a 140Ah AGM battery that was discharged by 110Ah (78%).

You’ll see from the graph above that the NLDC-40 restores up to 30Ah more than the NLDC-25 after just 2-hours of driving. Following that, the NLDC-40’s charging curve starts to taper off.

That said, although the 40A DC-DC system appears to be the “silver bullet” of vehicle-based, auxiliary-battery power, the benefit of using a 40A charger is only noticeable during the ‘bulk’ stage of recharging. Once you include the ‘absorption’ stage in the overall process, the total recharge time is similar for both products.

This is because the total charge time is determined by the battery’s technology, and not the charger itself. Simply put: The battery is the limiting factor.

Unfortunately, there’s no way around this, as most lead-acid batteries require considerable time to reach full charge. In contrast, a lithium battery will accept far more energy during its ‘bulk charge stage’ than a lead-acid battery, and ultimately, reach full-charge quicker.

READ NEXT: LITHIUM-ION VS LEAD-ACID BATTERY

However, the economics of using a lithium battery (within a vehicle-based application) should be strongly considered. Thankfully, the NLDC-40 and NLDC-25 both support Lithium-ion and LiFeP04 batteries, as well as regular Flooded, Gel, AGM and Calcium batteries.

So, from that perspective, using a 40A charger is noticeably beneficial if your driving habits are typically around the 3-hour mark or less. Beyond that, the two products start to offer similar results. However, there are other considerations, too…

CONNECTING A SOLAR PANEL TO A DC-DC CHARGER

As mentioned before, solar power plays a big role in the decision to install a DC-DC system, where most top-tier products include a built-in MPPT solar regulator.

Having a solar panel connected to your auxiliary battery negates the need to drive your vehicle on a daily basis. In many cases, solar power will be responsible for keeping the battery full, and may even be enough to supply your total power needs.

This feature is particularly important for motorhomes, caravans and off-road campers, where you’re more likely to camp for a prolonged period, rather than drive your vehicle everyday.

With this in mind, the NLDC-40 features a 600W MPPT solar regulator, as opposed to the NLDC-25’s 375W MPPT. Meaning, your panel array can be much larger when using the NLDC-40; and, because its solar input is rated to 42V, the unit supports newer, more efficient solar panels that generally produce higher voltages.

What’s more, the NLDC-40 boasts a second DC input that can be connected to an external power supply. This is common in mobile homes where Mains Power (220V AC) is converted into DC current, and then subsequently connected to the NLDC-40’s separate auxiliary DC port. This utilizes the NLDC-40’s powerful 5-stage smart-charge algorithm that effectively creates a 220V Maintenance Charger.

TO SUM UP…

Although a 40A DC-DC charger will reduce the bulk-charging time, the real benefits are realized in applications with larger battery banks or installations with large solar arrays.

On that note, here’s a short list of when a 40A DC-DC system should be the preferred choice, and, when it shouldn’t…

A larger 40A DC-DC charger is better when:

• You need the extra charge quickly during the ‘bulk stage’ of the charge, despite the battery not reaching full capacity.
• You have a large battery bank where the ‘absorption stage’ is comparatively short to the ‘bulk stage’ of the recharge process.
• You are powering a load (a fridge or another appliance) at the same time as charging the battery.
• You want the extra solar capabilities

A larger 40A DC-DC charger is NOT better when:

• The battery is not capable of receiving high currents, which is often the case with smaller GEL and Lithium batteries.
• Your application is mostly stationery, where you rely predominantly on AC power.
• Your solar array is relatively small (150W to 350W).

The post What size dc-dc charger do you need? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Winch cables don’t last forever, and when they do fail the results are often catastrophic and/or costly. This is why cable inspection and maintenance are vitally important.

While most winch cables (also known as ‘wire rope’) are lubricated during the manufacturing process, the factory-applied lube is only adequate for the initial storage of the cable, as well as the early stages of its service life.

Correct winch-cable lubrication is important for two reasons:

1. It reduces friction between the individual wire strands.
2. It provides protection against corrosion.

CORE IMPORTANCE

Typically speaking, winch cables fail at their core. This is because the inner portion of the cable is often poorly lubricated and prone to corrosion. To make matters worse: Core corrosion is difficult to see and monitor, which makes rust prevention that much more critical as there’s no way of knowing when the rope will fail!

On that note, there are two types of cable lubrication: External and internal. For the reasons mentioned above, it’s crucial that a high-quality penetrating oil is used when lubricating a winch cable. However, it should be noted that overly thin lubes (such as most multi-purpose oils) tend to dry out quickly and are not ideal for winch-cable maintenance.

In contrast, grease-like lubricants are generally too thick to adequately penetrate the cable’s core. They also have a tendency to gather dirt and lead to further maintenance issues. 

Most winch cables fail from the inside. This is due to incorrect lubrication that’s unable to penetrate the cable’s core. While the cable may look healthy on the outside, the inner core may be significantly weakened due to rust and corrosion. This is why it’s important to use a dedicated winch cable lubricant that deeply protects the cable from the inside out.

IDEAL WINCH CABLE LUBRICANT

The ideal winch cable lubricant should be thin in its application, but then have the ability to drive out moisture, protect against corrosion, and quickly solidify into a more adhesive state.

What’s more, the lubricant should be clear in colour. This makes it easier to inspect the cable in the future for potential fraying.

That said, the lifespan of your winch cable is directly proportional to the effectiveness of its maintenance, and if lubricated correctly, the service life of the cable should more than double.

Thankfully, CRC Industries’ boasts a ‘Chain & Wire Rope Lubricant’ that’s specifically formulated for winch cables. This special blend of synthetic lubricants, solvents and Molybdenum, are designed to keep hard-working chains and cables in peak operating condition.

CRC’s ‘Chain & Wire Rope Lubricant’ is clear in colour, deep penetrating, and because the formula is petroleum based, will help to clean the cable as the lube is applied.

What’s more, thanks to the product’s incredibly fast evaporation rate, the lube quickly thickens after application and deeply coats each wire strand with a non-drying protective film and lubricant.

APPLICATIONS INCLUDE…

• Winches
• Low speed conveyors
• Drive chains
• Hoists
• Rollers
• Garage doors
• Bushings
• Seals
• O-rings
• Come-alongs

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The post Why it’s important to lubricate your winch cable appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Is it time to ditch your lead-acid battery for lithium-ion technology?

While some overland travellers have migrated away from lead-acid batteries in favour of Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4), others are not yet convinced of the economics.

Although it may be true that the higher costs of a LiFePO4 auxiliary battery make it harder to justify in a vehicle-based application (where the system is only used a few times a year), there are significant recharge benefits to switching to a LiFePO4 dual-battery setup.

Economics aside, the real question is: How much better performing is LiFePO4 when compared to lead-acid batteries?  And, does that performance justify the higher upfront costs?

BATTERY TESTS

Boasting a range of DC-DC chargers that are all lithium, AGM and wet-cell compatible, National Luna recently tested three battery options that are commonly used within the leisure market. We conducted these tests by discharging each battery type by 70Ah, and then recorded the recharge performance using our 25A and 40A DC-DC chargers.

As shown in the graphs below, the LiFePO4 battery features a longer ‘Bulk’ charging stage in relation to its shorter ‘Absorption’ stage. This is thanks to lithium having a better ‘Conversion Efficiency’, which means the LiFePO4 battery reaches its full capacity in a far shorter period.

In contrast, the recharge performance of the wet-cell and AGM batteries is hindered by a disproportionately short ‘Bulk’ stage, in comparison to a longer ‘Absorption’ stage.

What’s more, the extra 15 amps of the NLDC-40 help the LiFePO4 battery reach a full charge in less than 2-hours. Needless to say, a rapid recharge cycle is supremely practical in terms of driving times and how you plan your road trip.

PROS & CONS

Of course, only you can decide if the above data justifies a migration, but aside from the rate of recharge, there are several other pros and cons to consider.

LiFePO4 PROS:

• Charges faster
• Significantly lighter (important for portable systems)
• Can be deeply discharged without greatly affecting battery life
• Has a longer life span

LiFePO4 CONS:

• Heat sensitive
• Costly initial expense
• Requires a unique charging algorithm
• Cannot be charged directly from your vehicle’s alternator
• Can have a much lower current limit, making it unsuitable for high-current applications, i.e. winching and engine cranking

SUMMARY

With the above points in mind, it’s clear that the decision to adopt LiFePO4 technology has less to do with economics, and more to do with the convenience of having a fast-charging dual-battery system.

That said, it’s really a personal question of whether the performance benefits of a LiFePO4 battery are enough to overlook the initial costs of the newfangled technology.

However, it should also be noted that the integration of a solar panel will also greatly influence your decision, as well as your camping habits: Do you typically drive long distances between camps, do you move around a lot, or do you tend to stay in one campsite for a few days?

What’s more, not all DC-DC chargers support lithium technology, so make sure your DC- DC unit is lithium compatible before you make any changes to your dual-battery setup.

Brought to you by National Luna

The post Lithium-Ion vs lead-acid deep cycle dual-battery system appeared first on 4WD Revolution.