Authored by Grant Spolander and Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF)

Ed’s note: The feature below was published in the July/August 2025 issue of 4WD Revolution. Click here to subscribe and receive future issues of 4WD Revolution delivered to your mailbox for free.

ARE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS DELIBERATELY AVOIDING THE DIRTY DIESEL PROBLEM?

I recall reading a story many years ago about how much it would cost to build a Fiat Uno from the parts catalogue; I think it totalled almost R1 million, at a time when the vehicle retailed for around R50k. The article wasn’t an attack on Fiat specifically, but rather illustrated that the automotive industry isn’t shy about charging hefty margins on spare parts.

But overpriced parts aren’t exactly groundbreaking news, nor are they evidence of some sinister conspiracy. But high parts prices are arguably one of the main reasons why so many people ditch their vehicles as soon as the warranty expires. The sad truth is that many of us choose to keep up with automotive debt (including the infamous balloon payment) rather than face the threat of costly repairs and spare parts.

But what if vehicle manufacturers weren’t taking steps to address a known issue in South Africa, an issue which often results in expensive repairs and subsequent parts sales? A cynical person might conclude that their failure to act was influenced by a profit motive. I don’t know. You should make up your own mind on this one.

WHY DIRTY DIESEL IS A PROBLEM

The instructions they gave me were simple: “Go to your nearest packaging supply store and buy five glass jars with sealable lids. Place the jars in your dishwasher on a hot wash. Once the drying cycle is complete and the jars are bone dry, quickly put on the lids to prevent contaminants from entering the jars. Then, visit five different fuel stations in your area (Cape Town), gather a diesel sample from each, and send the samples to our lab in JHB. When you’re next in Gauteng, come to our offices and together we’ll check the diesel quality under a microscope.”

I was chatting to Dean Puntis from Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF), and the above instructions formed part of my homework for this story. I’ve been wanting to write a feature on diesel filtration for some time, and after doing some desk research, I discovered that many leads led to UDF.

Dean wanted me to see, first hand, what the diesel quality was like in my area. I was too intrigued to turn down the offer. However, diesel quality is only part of the story…

It turns out that most modern engine manufacturers recommend a diesel filter spec of between 3 and 5 microns, whereas injector manufacturers stipulate that dirt particles should be removed down to 1 to 3 microns. Vehicle manufacturers don’t accept warranty claims stemming from dirty fuel. So, if your brand-new engine goes “pop” due to dirty diesel (and they can prove it), you’re largely on your own.

But it’s the variance between what the vehicle manufacturer recommends and what the injector manufacturer recommends that’s potentially damaging your engine. Here’s how…

POOR ATOMISATION

In modern diesel engines, fuel enters the cylinder under extremely high pressure and is atomised by the injectors into a fine mist. Proper atomisation ensures that all the available diesel is burnt, maximising energy extraction and efficiency.

But if atomisation isn’t optimal and overfueling occurs, the fuel burns during both the downward and upward strokes of the piston, raising combustion and exhaust-gas temperatures. This additional heat (which the engine isn’t designed for) not only passes through the turbocharger (causing oil breakdown and bearing failure), but can also melt pistons and cause cylinder head damage, depending on the extent of the overfueling.

“Engines and Turbochargers don’t fail for no reason, nor do injectors. There’s a reason behind the failure, and when we look closer, we find that 85 to 90% of all diesel engine failures are due to poor fuel quality, either in the form of dirt particles, water contamination, and/or viscosity” – UDF

THE DANGERS OF OVERFUELING

Even the most microscopic contaminants can disrupt the injector’s performance and the atomisation process by forming larger globules that are more difficult to atomise into a fine mist.

What’s more, contaminants can affect the injector’s performance by causing restrictions in the piston/plunger area or by wearing the delivery holes into an oval shape. As a result, instead of the diesel entering the cylinder as a fine mist, it arrives more like a jet stream or in tiny goblets. This exacerbates the problem, resulting in more unburnt fuel and higher exhaust-gas temperatures.

Unburnt diesel can pool on top of the piston, and when ignited, can result in significant carbon deposits. These deposits trap combustion heat instead of allowing it to escape through the exhaust.

Overfueling can also lead to varnishing or “washing” of the cylinder walls, which compromises the performance of the upper piston rings and may cause diesel to leak past the pistons into the sump. This process of deterioration doesn’t take months or years, either; it can occur in just a few days, depending on the severity of the overfueling.

And, because diesel and engine oil blend seamlessly together without separating, the diesel interferes with the engine oil’s performance. This leads to changes in viscosity and a decrease in the efficacy of the oil’s additives, particularly boron, which acts as a friction modifier to prevent metal-to-metal wear.

“We generally advise people to check their engine oil quality and engine oil levels regularly, especially if they’re travelling to remote areas where poor-quality diesel is a common issue. If you notice that your oil levels are rising on the dipstick or the oil is becoming thinner, it’s quite likely that your diesel is mixing with your engine oil” – UDF

WEAR CHECK

Much like blood tests can unveil underlying health problems long before you’re aware of symptoms, oil analysis can tell you everything you need to know about your 4×4’s engine health.

Engine oils contain several additives and performance markers which quickly become unbalanced if something is wrong. The most widely known oil analysis is called ‘Wear Check’, and it typically costs around R250 per test.

The information it provides is invaluable, as it immediately tells you how the oil is performing, what breakdown is occurring, the number of carbon deposits, and the wear rate on the engine.

The team at UDF uses Wear Check reports to assess the performance of their products and to extend service intervals for their clients. The principle is straightforward: the more contaminants you remove from the diesel, the better the atomisation, leading to a cleaner burn and, consequently, cleaner engine oil.

Filtering diesel to 1 micron is not a commonly recognised concept among 4×4 owners, even though it aligns with recommendations from injector manufacturers. However, the practice offers a significant financial incentive within the mining sector.

“Most major earth-moving companies in South Africa, as well as some in Australia, are utilising Ultrafine Depth Filters. One of our clients has extended their oil change intervals from every 250 hours to every 1 000+ hours. To give you an idea, an ore-moving truck requires anywhere from 120 to 185 litres of synthetic oil. Now consider a fleet of 100 such trucks, all able to extend their oil change intervals fourfold, along with the time and costs associated with oil change services; the savings amount to millions. It’s essential to note that they continually monitor oil quality to ensure the filters are functioning effectively. We’ve only had one earth-moving equipment company request the removal of our filters because they felt it was impacting their sales of replacement engine parts. Of course, these companies go beyond what the average 4×4 owner might do by incorporating engine oil bypass filtration, which further removes contaminants from the oil. But by filtering diesel to an ultrafine level, 4×4 owners can extend their oil change intervals and save a significant amount of money.” – UDF

UNDER THE MICROSCOPE

Back at the lab, I’m finally examining my homework under the microscope, feeling anxious that I might have unknowingly filled my tank with poor-quality diesel. Fortunately, most of the fuel stations I regularly visit have a relatively good reputation. One station is slightly worse than the others, but none of them is terrible. The station closest to my house looks immaculate, most likely due to the recent installation of new underground tanks.

Interestingly, busy fuel stations that constantly replenish their stocks tend to provide cleaner diesel. On the other hand, fuel stations in remote areas with tanks that have been underground or hanging in the air for decades are likely to be less reliable.

Either way, the microscope I’m looking through picks up the tiniest detail, and in the case of diesel, it’s not the big stuff you have to worry about. Most factory-fitted diesel filters easily capture large particles. It’s the quantity of the really fine stuff – usually silica – that does all the damage to your injectors.

I initially thought the diesel samples I brought from the coast would be worse than the samples collected by UDF around Johannesburg. However, when I shared this opinion with the lab technicians at UDF, they couldn’t help but laugh. “No, no, no,” they said. “Many of the samples we test around Johannesburg are horrendous!”

There are dozens of sample patches all over the UDF lab, some cleaner than others, but a number of them look like a dusty sunset over an African plain.

WHY STANDARD FILTERS AREN’T ENOUGH

Most factory-fitted filters face a challenging balancing act. They must effectively remove contaminants while allowing sufficient flow without becoming clogged before the required service intervals. For this reason, an Ultrafine filter cannot serve as the primary filter for a vehicle, as it will quickly become clogged with contaminants, restricting fuel flow.

Therefore, any filtration system that filters down to one micron should be installed in line AFTER the factory-fitted unit.

Standard diesel filters typically feature a 2-ply pleated or semi-rapped design that captures contaminants between the folds of the paper. However, what you can’t see is that smaller contaminants are captured by tiny microfibers that are barely visible to the naked eye.

Unfortunately, these microfibers are quite fragile. When exposed to vibrations, pulsation, bumps, or impacts, they tend to break off, allowing contaminants to pass through. “Watch this,” Dean says, tapping the fuel filter with his knuckle while diesel flows through their bench-test filtration machine.

Although the standard filter appears to have removed some of the ultra-fine contaminants they intentionally add to the test fuel, the moment Dean taps the filter housing, large debris is immediately visible in the output jar. As someone who has made his career out of driving 4x4s down bumpy trails, you can imagine that this revelation came as quite a shock.

“Interestingly, an old filter often does a better job of removing contaminants than a new one because the accumulated debris helps trap even more pollutants. However, the downside is that if the filter is jolted or shaken – such as when hitting a pothole or driving over corrugations – the microfibers between the pleats can break off and release the contaminants they’ve collected” – UDF

WHERE DOES DIRTY DIESEL COME FROM?

So, where do all these contaminants come from? The engineers at UDF explain, “If you’re a fuel wholesaler, the general rule is that every time you move fuel, you filter fuel. However, the reality in South Africa is quite different. Much of the supply chain and fuel transport systems are old and unfiltered.”

Interestingly, the breather pipes you see at most fuel stations have a 180-degree bend at the top to prevent dirt from entering the tanks. That’s the only safeguard – just a bend. Apart from that, there is no filtering on the breather pipes. As temperature fluctuations occur, diesel expands and contracts, which draws air into the storage tank through the breather pipe. Over time, the inhaled debris accumulates at the bottom of the tank.

The same situation applies to most vehicles, which are equipped with fuel tank breather pipes. However, these pipes often lack filters at the end of them, too. You might be wondering about the forecourt pumps that deliver the fuel to your 4×4. While the pumps do have their own filtration systems, they typically consist of 10 to 20 micron spin-on type paper filters – similar to what’s found in most cars.

Some fuel stations do see the benefits of ultrafine filtration, particularly those that supply diesel to large fleet-based companies. Consider the potential backlash if a courier company experiences multiple engine failures traced back to a single fuel source. Not only could the supplier risk losing a significant contract, but they may also be held liable for damages.

WHAT NOW?

Although aftermarket add-on diesel filters are pretty commonplace amongst off-road enthusiasts, they’re generally the type of units designed to remove water or moisture from the diesel. While this is vitally important to prevent injector-tip failure, most factory-fitted water separators work quite well.

“Although we offer aftermarket water separators, the truth is that most standard water separators are usually quite effective. The issue lies not with the separator itself but with the fact that people don’t drain the water trap often enough. We typically recommend bleeding the separator at least once a month. If this is not done, the water level can rise high enough that it gets sucked back into the fuel line and enters the fuel system, causing super-heated steam in the injector tips” – UDF

What’s truly remarkable about this topic is that although it’s well known that diesel quality in South Africa isn’t particularly good, and there have been multiple scandals involving paraffin being added to diesel to bump up profit margins – often at the expense of your engine’s longevity, very few people are aware of diesel filtration as it relates to atomisation, oil degradation, fuel economy, emissions, performance, and engine longevity.

With that in mind, I asked the UDF team, “How many 4×4 fitment shops are reselling these filters?” They replied, “In the Johannesburg area, a few. In the Cape Town area, maybe one or two.” It’s surprising because the installation process seems relatively straightforward, and the upfront cost isn’t too bad. Less than a tenth of what an injector replacement would cost you.

This raises an important question: If ultrafine filtration is affordable, readily available, easy to install, and proven to work in the cost-driven mining sector, why aren’t vehicle manufacturers including it as a factory option? It’s an especially relevant question considering the numerous scandals surrounding diesel quality in South Africa.

I pose the same question to Dean, who replies, “In their defence, the vehicle manufacturers aren’t to blame for South Africa’s poor diesel quality. And the same wear and tear happens in overseas markets, but it just happens a whole lot faster in SA due to our diesel. As for why they don’t fit finer filters to combat the issue? I suppose that could relate to the service plan and the fact that an ultrafine filter may increase the number of service intervals needed per year just to replace the diesel filter. All in all, it’s a uniquely South African problem. And we’re small fish in a big global pond”.

Click here to contact UDF, or enter your email below to receive a free bi-monthly copy of 4WD Revolution.

The post KILLER DIESEL appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Authored by TyreLife Solutions

First some background. When it comes to buying off-road tyres, there’s little doubt that Light Truck (LT) variant tyres should be at the top of your shopping list, especially if you intend to drive off-road, tow a trailer (or caravan or boat), or heavily modify your vehicle with aftermarket accessories. You see, LT tyres have stronger carcasses, deeper treads, tougher compounds, and they’re capable of carrying heavier loads than their P-Metric equivalents. P-Metric is industry shorthand for passenger vehicle. 

What many don’t realise is that the vast majority of all-terrain tyres (or ATs as they’re often commonly called) are P-Metric variants. So, although the tread pattern may suggest it’s an off-road tyre, the truth is that most P-metric tyres have poor load-carrying capabilities, limited puncture resistance, wear much faster, and offer little off-road durability against cuts and stone damage – when compared to an LT variant.

The interesting thing about mud-terrain tyres is that most of them are LT variants. It’s only in the all-terrain sector that the confusion occurs, and that’s because the visual differences between an LT and a P-Metric all-terrain are not always noticeable. There is no P-Metric lettering, so unless it says LT on the sidewall, you can safely assume it’s a P-Metric. Aside from this easily-overlooked sidewall detail, the two types of tyres may look identical in every other respect. 

Bottom line, if you want a true off-road tyre which can handle off-road terrain without sustaining punctures, sidewall damage, or total tread destruction, you need an LT variant tyre so make sure you can see the letters’ LT’ on the sidewall. But why would vehicle manufacturers knowingly fit ‘inferior’ P-Metric tyres to their 4WD offerings? Two reasons…

Firstly, they’re competing against other vehicle manufacturers in the arenas of fuel economy, driving comfort, and emission standards – and these are all areas directly affected by the weight, strength and rigidity of the vehicle’s tyres. And secondly, vehicle manufacturers have to consider economics and retail price. Given that LT tyres can cost more than double their P-Metric alternatives, fitting LTs as standard spec to a vehicle would increase its cost which could lead to fewer sales. 

FUEL ECONOMY

So we’re back to the burning question, “Will an all-terrain or mud-terrain tyre affect my vehicle’s fuel consumption?” The short answer is yes. An aggressive tread design plays a big role in fuel economy, and that’s because large tread lugs typically have more wind drag and a higher rolling resistance.

However, there’s more to the subject of fuel economy than just tread design. Although certain tread patterns and compounds might offer up more rolling resistance, the tyre’s overall mass has the greater impact on fuel consumption. Heavy tyres require more energy to turn, and in most cases, LT tyres are considerably heavier than P-Metrics, sometimes up to 40% heavier! Hence the added fuel use. Naturally, if you also decide to fit a larger tyre than the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended diameter, this will also negatively impact fuel economy.

Finally, one should also remember that not all LT tyres are constructed equally; other factors, such as compound quality, steel reinforcement, steel gauge, and nylon-cord quantity and quality, come into play when choosing between brands. On that note, the decision to replace your factory-fitted P-metric tyres with a Light Truck tyre shouldn’t be taken lightly. The downside is a slight (but noticeable) decrease in fuel efficiency. The upsides are:

• Longer service life
• Significantly better puncture resistance
• Significantly better resistance to sidewall damage
• Better heat resistance
• Greater load-carrying capacity
• Vast improvement in off-road durability
• Better steering response due to stiffer sidewalls

Do your sums carefully. It’s often possible that the fuel consumption trade-off is more than offset by the advantages offered. Now that you know the facts, you can make an educated decision. 

The post Do Off-Road Tyres Use More Fuel? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

PART2: How much power does a camping fridge use at different temperature settings?

In last month’s blog, we looked at how ambient temperatures affect your camping fridge’s power consumption. We did this by comparing the energy efficiency of a common camping fridge, where the internal temperature was set at 4ºC, and the ambient temperature was altered through 21ºC, 32ºC and 43ºC.

By keeping the fridge’s temperature fixed 4ºC, and only altering the ambient temperature, we were able to highlight the impact that external conditions have on a camping fridge’s energy use. In this particular example, the energy used was roughly 3 times higher (within a 24-hour period) when comparing the fridge’s performance at 43ºC as opposed to 21ºC.

The lesson: If possible, try to keep your camping fridge cool, well ventilated, and away from direct sunlight and/or high-ambient conditions. In case you missed it, you can read that blog piece here.

This month, we’re looking at how various temperature settings affect the energy use of the same 60-litre single-compartment fridge. We’ve done this by following the same methodology as last month’s test, however, in this case, we’ve fixed the ambient temperature at 32ºC, and then fluctuated the fridge’s settings through +4ºC, -6ºC and -16ºC.

This allows us to “exclude” the effects of ambient conditions, and focus solely on how various temperature settings affect a common camping fridge’s energy consumption.

The following graphs depict this best…

KEY POINTS

As mentioned in our previous test / blog, the greater the difference between the fridge’s internal- and external temperatures, the faster these two temperatures want to equalize.

That said, your fridge’s insulation is the only barrier that’s slowing down this process. Given that insulation is never 100% effective, eventually, some loses will occur and the fridge’s compressor will have to cycle on in order to replace the lost energy.

In short: Decreasing your fridge’s internal temperature has the same effect as raising the external / ambient temperature. The worst-case scenario would be if the internal temperature was set very low, and the ambient temperature was very high. In this case, it’s not uncommon for the compressor to run 100% of the time.

TEMPERATURE SETTING TIPS

Of course, very few things are better than an ice-cold beer in the bush, however, it pays to be mindful of how “ice-cold” temperatures impact the energy use of your camping fridge.

Generally speaking, most household fridges operate within a 4ºC to 7ºC range. Setting your camping fridge any lower than that may be unnecessary in terms of power consumption.

That said, it can be a good idea to set your fridge’s temperature super low while you’re driving – when the fridge is drawing power from the vehicle’s alternator – and then to adjust the temperature upwards once you get to camp and the fridge is running on battery power.

By doing things this way, you not only ensure that your drinks are cold when you get to camp, you also reduce how much work the compressor has to do thanks to residual cooling.

In much the same way, if you have a dual-compartment fridge, it can be helpful to deep-freeze ice bricks and/or meat in the freezer section while you’re driving, then, once you get to camp, adjust the temperature setting upwards (approximately 7ºC), and move the ice bricks / meat to the fridge section where it can slowly defrost and assist with keeping things cool.

In closing, perhaps the most important lesson of all is knowing that optimum energy efficiency requires a hands-on approach – both in terms of mitigating the effects of high-ambient temperatures, and, to actively adjust your fridge’s settings to best suit the conditions of the day.

The post What temperature should I set my camping fridge? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

PART 1

Knowing how much power your camping fridge uses is an important step in knowing how much battery energy you need. It also helps when calculating your required solar-panel size.

While several factors affect your fridge’s energy use, ambient temperature is one of the most impactful. Other factors include:

• Your preferred temperature setting
• The thickness of your fridge’s insulation
• The volume of your fridge
• The overall design and engineering of the compressor and piping
• How often you open and close the unit

Of course, it’s impossible to make any specific claims about power use when dealing with so many variables, however, by isolating the effects of ambient temperatures, we get to see how significant a role it plays. The following graphs present an example…

AMBIENT TEMPERATURE

The greater the difference between your fridge’s internal temperature, and the ambient external temperature, the greater (or faster) these two forces want to “equalise”.

This is why the quality and thickness of your fridge’s insulation is so pivotal because the insulation is the only thing that’s slowing down this equalising / warm-up effect.

However, no insulation is perfect, eventually, the fridge’s internal temperature will rise to a point where the compressor will cycle on in order to bring the temperature back down.

That said, the number of ON/OFF cycles is directly related to the ambient temperature. A higher ambient temperature means a higher number of cycles within a 1-hour period.

The graphs below highlight this fact on a single compartment fridge with 60 mm of insulation, and an internal temperature setting of +4ºC.

By excluding all the other variables, and looking at the effects of the ambient temperature alone, we’re able to see how impactful the operating conditions are on a camping fridge’s energy use.

To be clear, it’s not that the compressor is working “harder” or “faster” at 43ºC (as opposed to 21ºC), it’s that the compressor is cycling on 3 times more often. The actual energy consumed – per cycle – is mostly the same at various ambient temperatures, however, the number of cycles considerably changes.

The final graph below combines the concepts of the previous 3 graphs, and stretches that information over 24-hours.

It’s important to note that these values are typical for this size- and type of fridge, however, some variations will exist between manufacturers and the actual usage of the unit. What’s more, these results are based on an empty fridge. If the unit was packed full of groceries, the ON and OFF times would both be longer as the contents of the fridge would “stretch out” the cycle times.

For the reasons explained above, it becomes obvious that the energy use of a camping fridge is irrelevant when stated as a snap shot in time. For example: It’s quite possible that a fridge equipped with thick insulation, drawing 3.5A, can be more economical over 24-hours, than a fridge equipped with thin insulation drawing just 2.5A over the same period.

Again, the efficiency of a camping fridge relates more to the insulation, than it does to the compressor itself. However, the benefit of using a more powerful compressor is that the unit can pull the temperature down a lot faster when you need it to.

KEY POINTS

Ambient temperatures are the enemy! The hotter the operating conditions, the more often the fridge will cycle ON and OFF. Insulation is the best defence against this.

Solution: Keep your fridge away from direct sunlight, and if possible, remove it from a hot vehicle.

Ventilation plays a key role in your fridge’s ability to extract heat. A fridge that can’t “breath” properly, will use more power.

Solution: Make sure your fridge’s ventilation ports are unobstructed, and that hot air can flow freely away from the unit.

Heat will follow the path of least resistance, this includes the door / lid seal that’s designed to be compressed.

Solution: Always keep your fridge’s lid properly latched.

Frequently opening and closing your fridge will increase the number of compressor cycles, as well as how much energy is consumed over 24-hours.

Solution: Try to think ahead in terms of what you need from your fridge, and keep the lid opening to a minimum.

Click here to browse the full range of National Luna fridges

The post How much power does a camping fridge use? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Answer supplied by National Luna.

Click here to view National Luna’s range of solar-ready products.

To answer this question you first need to know:

• How much energy are you using on a daily basis?
• How much time do you have to replace it?

WHAT SIZE SOLAR PANEL FOR CAMPING?

Naturally, your 12V camping fridge plays a big role in your energy use over a 24-hour period. However, calculating that power consumption can be difficult when there are so many variables at play, including: The ambient operating temperature, the time of the day, how often you open and close your fridge, and of course, your preferred fridge / freezer temperature.

Typically speaking, a premium 12V camping fridge may use between 30Ah and 45Ah over a 24-hour period. Depending on daylight conditions, as well as your geographic location, most campsites have anywhere between 2- and 7-hours of usable solar energy.

Considering that an 85W panel produces roughly 5 amps per hour in ideal conditions, you would need at least 7-hours to replenish 35 amps.

Of course, the above calculation is radically simplified and based on minimum solar requirements as per: fridge size, performance, operating conditions, and how often you’re opening and closing the fridge. What’s more, the calculations don’t account for non-ideal conditions such as:

• Dew / Dust on your solar panel
• Partly cloudy weather
• High ambient temperatures and additional strain on your fridge
• How many appliances you’re powering, and…
• The fact that you need to power your fridge at the same time that you’re recharging your auxiliary battery

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MINIMUM PANEL SIZE

This is why it’s best to upsize the panel to a 120W / 150W unit if you’re thinking in terms of minimum requirements.

What’s more, upsizing your panel size will help to produce enough energy to power additional camping accessories such as LED lighting, and/or a cellphone charger. In some cases, many campers may even opt for a 200W or 250W panel for an additional margin.

However, bear in mind that your regulator would need to be rated to this capacity, and that such a panel may be impractically large in the case of non-flexible units.

ENERGY SAVING TIPS FOR CAMPING

Once you start calculating your energy consumption, it becomes clear that optimising your energy usage is far more practical than buying the biggest panel that will fit in/on your vehicle.

What’s more, some campers make use of a 220V inverter to power their camera and/or laptop chargers, without realising that the inverter itself is drawing significant energy. If possible, it’s generally best to substitute your 220V camera / laptop charger with 12V USB alternative. This alone can eliminate the need for an inverter and cut your energy use in half.

On that note, it would be wise to increase your solar power to a 200W panel if you’re forced to use an inverter, and, to make use of a MPPT solar regulator as opposed to a PWM unit.

Naturally, other energy cutbacks can be made in the form of efficient LED lighting, as well as opting for a fridge / freezer with high-quality insulation, compressor performance, and a correctly sized power cable. Other energy saving tips include…

• Always keep your camping fridge / freezer’s latches closed to ensure optimum seal performance.
• Never pack items around the fridge’s ventilation. Doing so will raise the operating temperature and use more battery power.
• Set your camping fridge / freezer’s temperature to a low setting while driving, then adjust the temperature to a more economical setting once you arrive at camp.
• Avoid parking your vehicle directly in sunlight.
• Keep your camping fridge as full as possible.

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The post HOW MUCH SOLAR POWER DO I NEED FOR CAMPING? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

You’ll find this information stamped on the tyre’s sidewall, just after the DOT number. These days, the manufacturing date is depicted as a four-digit code, where the first two digits represent the week the tyre was manufactured, while the last two digits represent the year.

For example: If the tyre’s sidewall is stamped 4920, it means the tyre was manufactured in the 49th week, of the year 2020.

Get an instant online quote

on a wide range of tyres by clicking here

HOW OLD IS TOO OLD

But what about an expiry date? Is this information also displayed on the sidewall?

In most cases: No it isn’t.

However, in terms of industry standards, it’s widely considered that most tyres should be replaced once the manufacturer’s warranty has lapsed. Typically speaking, this period is limited to 5- or 6-years depending on the brand and/or quality of the tyre.

That said, it’s important to remember that even if the tyre’s tread depth appears deep enough to keep using, it could be that the tyre is too old to safely use.

NATURAL MATERIALS

Because tyres are made from naturally occurring materials (i.e. rubber), overtime, these materials may oxidise and “dry out”. This oxidation effect can impact the tyre’s flexibility making the compound harder, more brittle, and poorer performing.

If left long enough, the tyre may start to break apart under stressful conditions, such as: hard braking, acceleration and cornering.

What’s more, because the oxidation process starts – albeit very slowly – from the day the tyre is made, it’s important to note the date of manufacture on any set of tyres, especially on a used vehicle.  

Get an instant online quote

on a wide range of tyres by clicking here

CARAVANS & TRAILERS

This last point is particularly important for caravan or trailer owners. This is because, in most cases, caravan tyres seldom need replacing due to mileage and tread wear, but instead, because of oxidation and/or UV damage over time.

The post Do tyres have an expiry date? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

I tend to gauge 4×4 equipment in a cost-versus-reward ratio.

For example: The cost of a recovery winch is high relative to how often you’ll use it, but in the event of you desperately needing one, the price is irrelevant.

This is true for many accessories: Bull-bar, long-range tank, suspension, Light Truck tyres, a diff-lock… it’s a long list.

However, there are one or two accessories on the market where the costs are crazy low, despite the benefits being incalculably high. Namely: a winch damper! Otherwise known as a ‘winch blanket’.

So what does a winch damper do, and, how do you use it properly?

Let’s delve into it… 

WHAT DOES A WINCH DAMPER DO?

In short, the purpose of a winch damper is simple: In the event of your winch cable (or snatch strap) breaking under load, the winch damper is designed to weigh the cable down so that it hits the ground and reduces its speed and kinetic energy, while directing any potential impact forces away from the vehicle.

Without a winch damper you run the risk of the broken cable or strap causing significant damage to the recovered vehicle, or worse yet, resulting in a life-threatening injury.

DO WINCH DAMPERS WORK?

But do winch dampers really work, or are they just gimmicky items that take up space in your recovery bag?

Well, the answer to that question depends on three things:

• The quality of the winch damper
• Where you position it on the cable
• How many winch dampers you use

It would be easy to assume that any item could be flopped over a winch cable to dampen its forces, but it’s not uncommon for a low-quality winch damper to tear apart in a recovery situation. This is particularly true for broken snatch straps which release incredible amounts of energy once they fail.

That said, it’s quite likely that most winch dampers (even the good ones) will rip in the event of a broken cable or strap, but what you don’t want is for the bag to be easily flung off the cable when that happens. The damper needs to stay on the cable long enough to drag it to the ground.

On that note, the effectiveness of a winch damper radically improves the moment it’s filled with sand or dirt. Which is why the bag you purchase should include a pocket(s) of some sort

SAFETY TIP: Never fill the pocket with rocks, as this could turn the bag itself into a dangerous projectile.

HOW TO USE A WINCH DAMPER

The obvious question is: Where do you place the bag over the cable, at the front, rear, or in the middle of the cable’s length?

There’s some debate around which position works best, but it’s widely accepted that the best place to position your winch damper is somewhere between the middle- and the far-end of the cable. This is because most cables typically fail close to the “hook up” point. Or at least: within the last third of the cable’s length.

Ideally, the more dampers you use, the better the result. So from that perspective, the more the merrier.

However, what matters most is that you don’t rush the recovery process, and that you take the time to assess the situation. At the end of the day, getting home safely is your number one priority.

More winch-damper tips from SecureTech

1. Never overfill the bag as the stitching may fail during a “normal” recovery.
2. Failure to fill the bag with enough sand or dirt may significantly reduce its effectiveness. That said, winch dampers with small pocket sizes are generally ineffective.
3. We recommend that a winch damper be used on either end of the recovery system. We generally spec one damper (@ 5m) from each vehicle, and an additional damper along each 5m interval if the rope/cable/strap is long enough.
4. We prefer using our winch dampers in conjunction with safety lanyards.
5. SecureTech winch blankets can also be used with kinetic ropes, webbings, winch extension strap, pull straps, winch cables, and plasma ropes.

The post Do winch dampers work and how to use them properly appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Last month we chatted about steel rims vs alloy rims, and pointed out that steel rims are preferable in extreme off-road situations where damage to the rim is likely to occur. In these cases, an alloy rim is more likely to crack due to impact, whereas a steel rim can be bent or hammered back into shape in emergency situations.

This month, we’re talking about beadlock rims: what are they, how do they work, and who should fit them?

WHAT IS A BEADLOCK RIM?

Once again, if you’re driving extreme off-road trails where vehicle-, tyre- or rim damage is likley to occur, you may choose to deflate your tyres to extremely low levels.

However, in the case of a standard rim (steel or alloy), the bead area of the tyre is seated against the rim with the help of internal air pressure. If the pressure inside the tyre is deflated too low, the force necessary to seal the bead may not be enough, and the risk of de-beading the tyre is high.

If a tyre does de-bead (also known as ‘break its bead’), it will continue to leak air until the tyre…

• Is completely flat
• Runs off the rim entirely
• Sustains permanent friction damage to the bead/seal area

What’s more, a tyre that has broken its bead is a difficult thing to re-inflate, and may require an air volume that’s beyond the abilities of most 12V air compressors. Lastly, even if you do manage to pump enough air into the tyre for the bead area to re-seat, there’s a good chance that dirt and sand will get trapped under the seal and continue to leak air as a slow puncture.

In short, the more you deflate, the greater the chance of de-beading your tyres and having to endure all the hassles listed above. So what’s the solution?

ENTER: THE BEADLOCK RIM

In the case of beadlocks, the rim features a bolted outer ring that clamps the tyre’s bead area. Meaning, the tyre is no longer reliant on air pressure to seal the bead, but rather, it’s “locked” in place by the bolted ring. With the tyre now clamped down, there’s far less chance of the bead breaking under extremely low air pressures. This allows extreme off-roaders to deflate their tyres for better performance over loose, slippery, or wet terrain. 

On that note, let’s look at some of the pros and cons of fitting a beadlock rim…

PROS:

• Better off-road traction
• More comfort
• Less tread belt punctures
• Tyre moulds to the contours of the terrain
• Many people love the look of a beadlock rim
• The tyre should remain on the rim in the event of a high-speed blowout (Information credit: Allan Venter)
• Beadlocks may help to prevent sand and mud from forcing their way between the tyre and the rim (Information credit: Allan Venter)

CONS:

• Far more costly than a standard rim (sometimes double or triple the price)
• Difficult, costly, and time consuming to install
• Due to the additional work, some tyre dealers may refuse to fit a tyre to a beadlock rim
• Very hard to balance
• Extreme deflation will forfeit your tyres’ warranty
• Beadlocks are heavier than standard rims, leading to less fuel economy and potentially less engine performance
• Maintenance, you may have to re-torque the beadlock’s bolts several times a year
• Harder steering response from significantly aired-down tyres
• At extremely low air pressure, structural tyre damage is likely to occur
• Greater chance of sidewall tyre damage due to rock pinching

CONCLUSION

Although beadlocks certainly look the part, unless you’re an avid off-roader who frequently drives grade 5 trails and suffers regular de-beading problems, there’s little to no reason for fitting a beadlock rim. It’s also important to realise that any extreme tyre deflation will void your tyre’s warranty, regardless of what tyre make or brand you have.

If you like the look of a beadlock rim, but don’t want to deal with the maintenance issues that come with owning a set, you can also fit an imitation beadlock rim. TyreLife Solutions distributes a wide range of alloy rims, steel rims, imitation beadlock rims, and genuine beadlock rims. Follow the link for more information: www.tyrelife.co.za

Brought to you by TyreLife Solutions

The post What are beadlock rims and are they worth it? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

If you’re in the market for a new set of rims, you may be contemplating the benefits of steel wheels versus alloys. Let’s look at the pros and cons of each.

ARE STEEL WHEELS BETTER?

PROS:

• Malleable and resistant to high-impact forces
• Easy to bend, but very hard to crack
• Strong centre
• Can be re-shaped / repaired on a trail or remote area
• Affordable
• Widely available, even in remote regions

CONS:

• Weak edges in terms of distortion and bending
• High heat-conductivity
• Prone to rust if scratched
• Limited sizes that are specific to off-road use and high-profile tyres
• Slightly heavier
• Harder to balance if distorted
• Limited design styles in terms of customising

ARE ALLOY WHEELS BETTER?

PROS:

• Are extremely rigid and resistant to mild impact forces
• Are hard to bend or distort
• Have strong edges
• Won’t rust if they have been scratched
• Are better suited to low- or medium-impact forces
• Are easier to balance
• Have a wide range of styles available
• Offer a wide range of sizes for most vehicle types
• Have low heat-conductivity

CONS:

• More likely to crack in a severe impact
• Are seldom available in remote regions
• Are difficult (and sometimes impossible) to repair
• Are more costly than steel wheels
• A crack in the bead area will allow air to leak from the tyre
• There is a greater risk of theft

So which is better: Steel or alloy rims?

We tend to think of steel rims as the stronger option, but in some cases, where potential impact forces are low or medium, alloy rims are less likely to distort, and are therefore less likely to cause other problems such as with balancing.

However, if the wheel is exposed to extreme impact forces (particularly if the tyre is flat or significantly deflated), alloy wheels are more likely to crack. Needless to say, a cracked alloy rim is almost impossible to fix on a trail and is likely to leak air. In most cases, the wheel will have to be scrapped.

In contrast, steel wheels are far more malleable, which means that they are easier to bend (especially on their edges), but are almost impossible to crack. In other words, most steel wheels can be knocked back into shape with a hammer in emergency situations, and it is very unlikely that a steel wheel will ever leave you stranded.

As far as other damages go, such as rock rash, etc., a steel wheel will obviously rust if badly scratched. However, in most cases, the corrosion is surface-bound and easy to brush off and repair. Of course, alloy wheels won’t rust if scratched, but because they tend to cost more, it’s often harder to face any damage to the rim. 

Typically speaking, steel wheels tend to weigh more than equally-sized alloy rims, but the differences are often marginal, and the impact on fuel consumption is far more likely to be affected by your tyre choice, particularly if the tyre’s carcass is a Light Truck variant, as opposed to a P-Metric alternative.

In many ways, debating ‘steel versus alloy’ is encapsulated in the Chinese proverb, “The green reed which bends in the wind, is stronger than the mighty oak which breaks in the storm.” So, the question of which is best depends on the storms (i.e. trails) you hope to chase.

The post What’s better: steel or alloy wheels? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

If your vehicle has recently picked up a slight vibration and some road noise, it could be an indication that your tyres need rotating. Other symptoms of an overdue tyre-service include:

1. Higher costs per kilometre 
2. Uneven tread wear
3. Increased road noise, and
4. Steering wheel vibrations

So, why do tyres wear unevenly?

First off, your front tyres generally carry more load than the rear, and because they also take sharper turns, the wear rate is different. However, your tyres also wear differently from left to right, and that’s because we typically take corners faster to the right when driving on the left-hand side of the road. And lastly, the road’s natural camber also causes uneven tyre wear.

Rotating your tyres helps to equalise these wear rates, which means longer tyre life, quieter road noise and a smoother ride. This is true for all tyres, but failure to follow a rotation schedule is particularly noticeable on all-terrain and mud-terrain tyres.

But how often should you rotate your tyres? And, which is just as important, in what sequence should you rotate them?

4WD REVOLUTION: “CLICK HERE FOR AN INSTANT QUOTE ON 4X4 TYRES“

Relying on your local tyre dealer to know this information is not always a good idea, as the rotation pattern is different for Front-Wheel Drive (FWD), Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) and All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles. Throw in the problem of incorporating a fifth tyre (the spare), and the subject becomes even more confusing.

As a general rule, you should first check the vehicle’s Owner’s Manual for the recommended tyre-rotation sequence. However, if you can’t find the relevant info, there are several ways to rotate your tyres. Here’s what you need to know for your vehicle type…

FORWARD CROSS (FWD vehicles)

The front tyres move straight back to the rear, and the rear tyres move to the opposite front position.

See Diagram A below.

REARWARD CROSS (RWD vehicles and part-time 4x4s)

The rear tyres move straight up to the front, and the front tyres move to the opposite rear position.

See Diagram C below.

X-PATTERN (FWD vehicles)

This is an alternative sequence to the forward-cross pattern. Here, the front tyres move to the opposite rear positions, and the rear tyres move to the opposite front positions.

FRONT TO BACK (Directional Tyres)

Due to their specific tread pattern, directional tyres are designed to move only in a single direction, which means that the tyres have to move from the front to the back, while remaining on the same side of the vehicle. In other words, the front right tyre moves to the back right, and the front left tyre moves to the back left.

5 TYRE PATTERN (AWD Vehicles and Full-Time 4x4s)

If your vehicle is equipped with a full-size spare, you may want to incorporate the fifth tyre into your rotation sequence to ensure even wear. This can be particularly important for AWD vehicles and full-time 4x4s, where a difference in tyre diameter could put unnecessary strain on the vehicle’s drivetrain.

In this case, move the left-rear tyre to the left-front position, and the right rear tyre to the right front position. The right front tyre goes to the left rear position, the spare tyre moves to the right rear position, and the left front tyre then becomes the spare.

See Diagram D below.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU ROTATE YOUR TYRES?

Just as your vehicle has an annual maintenance plan, your tyres need regular maintenance to ensure optimum performance, tread-life, and comfort. Your vehicle’s service book should provide guidelines on how often your tyres need balancing, rotation and alignment.

Brought to you by TyreLife Solutions

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