Authored by 4WD Revolution.

“How much did you pay for your all-terrain tyres again?”

You can tell by the smirk on your mate’s face that it’s a loaded question. He’s obviously got a better deal on the same tyre, but you play along anyway.

“I think it was R4.5k per tyre. Why do you ask?”

“Jeez, that’s quite pricey. I just bought the same tyre, same size, same tread pattern, for R3.5k per tyre.”

The statement stings. Not just because he’s taking obvious pleasure in one-upping you, but because you’re now wondering whether your tyre dealer ripped you off.

But wait, did he actually buy the same tyre?

Didn’t you once read an article in this very publication about how LT and P-metric tyres look almost identical, but are fundamentally different underneath?

That’s right, you probably did. 

Which means you didn’t necessarily get ripped off by your tyre dealer, and your mate hasn’t necessarily scored a better deal. In fact, if you’re a 4×4 owner who regularly ventures off-road, carries a fair load, and deflates his tyres on a regular basis, you may have bought the more appropriate tyre for your application.

Here’s why…

LT VERSUS P-METRIC

As mentioned above, we’ve discussed LT and P-metric tyres before, but usually as a footnote in a broader tyre story. This time, we’re putting these two different types under the microscope and seeing how they differ — so you don’t buy the wrong tyre for your application.

To recap, many all-terrain tyres are available in two specifications: LT (Light Truck) and P-metric (Passenger-metric), with the latter sometimes marketed as an SUV tyre.

When you buy a brand-new 4×4, the chances are very high it’ll arrive from the factory wearing P-metric all-terrain rubber.

The first thing to be aware of is that there’s nothing inherently wrong with a P-metric tyre. For the average 4×4 owner, there are actually some compelling reasons to choose this type. They’re generally lighter, cheaper, quieter, and more comfortable than their LT equivalents; while their lower weight can also contribute to better fuel economy.

The interesting part is that an LT and P-metric version of the same all-terrain tyre can look almost identical from the outside. Same tread pattern. Same sidewall design. Same overall appearance.

But underneath that familiar exterior, you’re looking at two totally different tyres. It’s like you’re comparing a RAV4 to a Land Cruiser – sure, they’re both Toyotas, but that’s where the similarity ends. 

LT tyres are generally heavier and more robustly constructed, with greater load-carrying capability, and greater resistance to the abuse associated with heavy loads, lower pressures, and rough terrain. They also often have deeper tread, although this isn’t an inherent requirement of an LT tyre.

Caption: Although deeper tread isn’t a prerequisite for LT classification, LT tyres often feature deeper treads than their P-metric counterparts. Depending on your driving style and application, this can translate into a longer service life.

In the case of our test tyres, measured at the same location on each, the P-metric had 10mm of tread depth, compared with 12mm on the LT. That may not sound like much, but it represents 20% more tread — and potentially 20% more value from your tyre.

So what this means is that an LT tyre is a sensible choice if your 4×4 is heavily laden with accessories, camping equipment and other gear, particularly if you regularly deflate your tyres when driving off-road.

The reason comes down to something we can’t see from the outside: construction.

An LT tyre’s more robust construction allows it to better tolerate the additional heat and deflection generated when carrying heavy loads at reduced pressures. Its stronger casing and sidewall can also provide greater resistance to impacts, and reduce sidewall bulging when deflated.

And that matters because a sidewall puncture is a very different proposition to a simple tread puncture. While a tread puncture can often be repaired, damage to the sidewall can render the tyre unrepairable — potentially turning a chance encounter with a sharp rock or piece of debris into an expensive mistake.

THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS

To illustrate some of the key differences between LT and P-metric tyres, we asked the good folks at General Tire if we could borrow two versions of the same tyre.

While many of the major tyre brands offer LT and P-metric versions of their popular all-terrain products, the General Grabber AT3 is a particularly good case study for comparing the differences.

Among South African vehicle brands, the P-metric Grabber AT3 is a popular OE (original equipment) tyre, which makes it a common choice when owners come to replace their original tyres – because we’re inclined to stay with what we know. 

But if you want to upgrade your vehicle’s off-road ability, the LT variant of the Grabber AT3 deserves serious consideration. Sure, it’s more expensive, but let’s look at what it offers you in real terms – actual measurements.

WEIGHT

Using a basic floor scale, the LT weighed in at 23.1 kg, versus 17.5 kg for the P-metric. That’s a difference of 5.6 kg per tyre — almost 33% more unsprung weight.

Much of this additional weight comes from the LT’s more robust construction, including its heavier casing, steel reinforcement, and deeper tread blocks.

The beefier construction allows the LT to safely contain higher pressures and carry greater loads.

There are downsides to all that extra rubber and reinforcement of course. More unsprung weight can affect fuel consumption, ride quality, and suspension performance, particularly if your shocks are already tired.

However, for an off-road-focused 4×4, those compromises are a worthwhile trade-off given the increased durability and load-carrying capability.

And weight is only the beginning.

LOAD

The most significant difference between an LT and P-metric tyre comes down to how much weight each is designed to carry.

Tyres communicate this information in several ways, including load index, load range, and maximum load capacity.

Explaining all the numbers and letters is probably better suited to a separate article, but the important thing to understand is this simple fact: An LT tyre is designed to carry more load than its seemingly identical P-metric sibling. That additional load-carrying capacity is closely linked to the tyre’s ability to safely contain higher inflation pressures.

As we’ve explained in previous tyre articles, the air inside the tyre does much of the heavy lifting. The tyre is essentially the vessel containing that air. Make the vessel stronger, and it can safely contain more pressure and support more weight.

Caption: The General Grabber AT3 is a popular all-terrain in South Africa, making it ideal for our LT versus P-Metric comparison.

Using our General Grabber AT3s as an example, the LT version has a maximum load of 1 450 kg at 5.5 bar, while the P-metric version is rated for 1 120 kg at 3.5 bar.

Of course, these maximum figures aren’t representative of how most of us use our tyres off-road. We’re more likely to reduce pressures for improved comfort, traction, and reduced impact damage.

This is where the LT tyre’s stronger construction becomes particularly relevant.

Caption: The tyre’s sidewall tells you exactly how much weight it can carry and, consequently, the maximum pressure it can handle.

HEAT

Heat is one of a tyre’s greatest enemies.

As a tyre deflects, the rubber and casing flex, generating heat. Add a heavy vehicle, a heavy load, low tyre pressures, and a corrugated road, and you have a recipe for significant tyre stress.

A more robustly constructed LT tyre is designed to cope with this punishment better than a P-metric tyre. Its stiffer construction generally means less deflection under load, helping it better manage the heat generated when operating at reduced pressures.

And when you’re hundreds of kilometres from the nearest tyre shop, that additional margin of durability can be worth considerably more than the difference in purchase price.

DEFLATION

If you ever want proof of just how widely misunderstood LT versus P-metric tyres are, look at how many publications, websites, and YouTube channels conduct all-terrain tyre tests without mentioning whether the tyres are LT or P-metric.

It’s a glaring omission.

It’s like comparing a RAV4 with a Land Cruiser but focusing on criteria like economy, manoeuvrability, and comfort. Of course, the RAV4 is likely to come out looking like the better vehicle.

To make matters worse, testers will often compare an LT all-terrain tyre with a P-metric all-terrain tyre at the same inflation pressure.

That methodology can be misleading because the two tyres won’t necessarily behave the same way at the same pressure.

Coming back to our two test tyres, we measured the footprint of both General Grabber AT3s at various pressures. As you can see in the images below, the LT consistently produces a shorter footprint than the P-metric at the same pressure – with the difference varying from approximately 7% to 8%.

If you tested these two tyres in sand at exactly the same pressure, the LT could therefore appear to perform significantly worse than the P-metric.

But is that a fair comparison?

The chosen pressure is somewhat arbitrary. If the objective is to compare the tyres’ ability to produce traction, shouldn’t the test be conducted at the same footprint length rather than simply the same pressure?

The point is that an LT tyre’s stiffer construction means it won’t deform and spread in the same way as a P-metric tyre at a given pressure.

That isn’t necessarily a disadvantage. It simply means the two tyres require different pressures across different applications.

This is one reason why a softer, more pliant P-metric tyre can be attractive to an off-roader who drives a relatively lightweight vehicle almost exclusively in sand. It can produce a larger footprint at a given pressure, while also being lighter, more comfortable, and cheaper to replace.

For a heavily-loaded touring 4×4 that spends its time dealing with corrugations and rocky tracks, the priorities can be very different.

THE DEALER DEBACLE

The decision between LT and P-metric really isn’t that complicated. If you frequently drive off-road, heavily load your 4×4, travel to remote places, and regularly reduce your tyre pressures, an LT tyre will generally be the more appropriate choice.

The problem is that not every tyre dealer understands this distinction.

There can be a disconnect between what a tyre salesperson thinks the customer wants — the cheapest possible price — and what the customer actually needs: the right tyre for their application.

There are several reasons for this. Tyre sales staff may be incentivised by sales volumes, staff turnover can be high, and many tyre dealers primarily deal with passenger vehicles rather than dedicated off-road applications.

Caption: While it makes sense to shop around for the best possible tyre deal, it makes even more sense to build a relationship with a tyre dealer who understands the demands of off-road applications — and preferably, one who’s a 4×4 enthusiast himself. Photo credit: Roam Overlanding.

That last point is worth highlighting. Much of the misinformation people receive about tyres could be avoided if they bought from a dealer who specialises in off-road tyres — or, better yet, one whose owner or staff are 4×4 enthusiasts themselves.

Ultimately, however, the responsibility still rests with you, the buyer, to understand what you’re buying.

Because if two tyres look identical but one costs considerably more, the cheaper tyre isn’t necessarily the bargain you think it is.

A PERSONAL ACCOUNT

Ed’s Note: Over the years, I’ve lost a fair number of tyres due to sidewall damage. But, interestingly, I’ve never lost an LT tyre.

And, come to think of it, I’ve also never lost a P-metric tyre when I’ve kept that tyre at the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended pressure.

Almost every tyre I’ve lost to sidewall damage has been a P-metric that I deflated.

It seems I’m a slow learner. I probably should have spotted the trend sooner and stopped deflating P-metric tyres altogether. But when you’re 20 km down a badly-corrugated road, the temptation to “just let out a wee bit of air” to make the ride more bearable eventually creeps in.

Then, before you know it, you’re listening to the all-too-familiar sound of air rushing out of a tyre.

That doesn’t mean P-metric tyres are bad. If you primarily stick to gravel roads, rarely deflate, and seldom carry a heavy load, a P-metric tyre will probably serve you perfectly well.

For everyone else, an LT should be at the top of your shopping list.

Caption: I once travelled through Mozambique’s Limpopo National Park in a stock-standard Nissan Patrol fitted with factory P-metric tyres. Eventually, I ran out of tyre plugs and had to borrow some from others in our convoy. It was my first real-world lesson in how the wrong tyre, in the wrong application, can completely dominate a trip.

PRICE

There are no market-related rules governing how LT and P-metric tyres should differ in price, and publishing specific prices here could quickly make this story inaccurate. However, you can expect to see price differences of anywhere from 30% to 50% between two seemingly identical all-terrain tyres.

WHICH ONE SHOULD YOU BUY?

P-METRIC:

Mostly road driving

Lightly loaded

Occasional gravel/off-road

Comfort and fuel economy priorities

Lightweight vehicle

Rarely deflates

LT:

Heavily accessorised vehicle

Regularly carries camping/touring loads

Frequent off-road use

Regularly deflates tyres

Corrugations and rocky terrain

Long-distance/remote travel

Have something to add? We’d love to hear from you. Contact us here.

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The post The No. 1 mistake off-roaders make when choosing an all-terrain tyre appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Last month we chatted about steel rims vs alloy rims, and pointed out that steel rims are preferable in extreme off-road situations where damage to the rim is likely to occur. In these cases, an alloy rim is more likely to crack due to impact, whereas a steel rim can be bent or hammered back into shape in emergency situations.

This month, we’re talking about beadlock rims: what are they, how do they work, and who should fit them?

WHAT IS A BEADLOCK RIM?

Once again, if you’re driving extreme off-road trails where vehicle-, tyre- or rim damage is likley to occur, you may choose to deflate your tyres to extremely low levels.

However, in the case of a standard rim (steel or alloy), the bead area of the tyre is seated against the rim with the help of internal air pressure. If the pressure inside the tyre is deflated too low, the force necessary to seal the bead may not be enough, and the risk of de-beading the tyre is high.

If a tyre does de-bead (also known as ‘break its bead’), it will continue to leak air until the tyre…

• Is completely flat
• Runs off the rim entirely
• Sustains permanent friction damage to the bead/seal area

What’s more, a tyre that has broken its bead is a difficult thing to re-inflate, and may require an air volume that’s beyond the abilities of most 12V air compressors. Lastly, even if you do manage to pump enough air into the tyre for the bead area to re-seat, there’s a good chance that dirt and sand will get trapped under the seal and continue to leak air as a slow puncture.

In short, the more you deflate, the greater the chance of de-beading your tyres and having to endure all the hassles listed above. So what’s the solution?

ENTER: THE BEADLOCK RIM

In the case of beadlocks, the rim features a bolted outer ring that clamps the tyre’s bead area. Meaning, the tyre is no longer reliant on air pressure to seal the bead, but rather, it’s “locked” in place by the bolted ring. With the tyre now clamped down, there’s far less chance of the bead breaking under extremely low air pressures. This allows extreme off-roaders to deflate their tyres for better performance over loose, slippery, or wet terrain. 

On that note, let’s look at some of the pros and cons of fitting a beadlock rim…

PROS:

• Better off-road traction
• More comfort
• Less tread belt punctures
• Tyre moulds to the contours of the terrain
• Many people love the look of a beadlock rim
• The tyre should remain on the rim in the event of a high-speed blowout (Information credit: Allan Venter)
• Beadlocks may help to prevent sand and mud from forcing their way between the tyre and the rim (Information credit: Allan Venter)

CONS:

• Far more costly than a standard rim (sometimes double or triple the price)
• Difficult, costly, and time consuming to install
• Due to the additional work, some tyre dealers may refuse to fit a tyre to a beadlock rim
• Very hard to balance
• Extreme deflation will forfeit your tyres’ warranty
• Beadlocks are heavier than standard rims, leading to less fuel economy and potentially less engine performance
• Maintenance, you may have to re-torque the beadlock’s bolts several times a year
• Harder steering response from significantly aired-down tyres
• At extremely low air pressure, structural tyre damage is likely to occur
• Greater chance of sidewall tyre damage due to rock pinching

CONCLUSION

Although beadlocks certainly look the part, unless you’re an avid off-roader who frequently drives grade 5 trails and suffers regular de-beading problems, there’s little to no reason for fitting a beadlock rim. It’s also important to realise that any extreme tyre deflation will void your tyre’s warranty, regardless of what tyre make or brand you have.

If you like the look of a beadlock rim, but don’t want to deal with the maintenance issues that come with owning a set, you can also fit an imitation beadlock rim. TyreLife Solutions distributes a wide range of alloy rims, steel rims, imitation beadlock rims, and genuine beadlock rims. Follow the link for more information: www.tyrelife.co.za

Brought to you by TyreLife Solutions

The post What are beadlock rims and are they worth it? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

If you’re in the market for a new set of rims, you may be contemplating the benefits of steel wheels versus alloys. Let’s look at the pros and cons of each.

ARE STEEL WHEELS BETTER?

PROS:

• Malleable and resistant to high-impact forces
• Easy to bend, but very hard to crack
• Strong centre
• Can be re-shaped / repaired on a trail or remote area
• Affordable
• Widely available, even in remote regions

CONS:

• Weak edges in terms of distortion and bending
• High heat-conductivity
• Prone to rust if scratched
• Limited sizes that are specific to off-road use and high-profile tyres
• Slightly heavier
• Harder to balance if distorted
• Limited design styles in terms of customising

ARE ALLOY WHEELS BETTER?

PROS:

• Are extremely rigid and resistant to mild impact forces
• Are hard to bend or distort
• Have strong edges
• Won’t rust if they have been scratched
• Are better suited to low- or medium-impact forces
• Are easier to balance
• Have a wide range of styles available
• Offer a wide range of sizes for most vehicle types
• Have low heat-conductivity

CONS:

• More likely to crack in a severe impact
• Are seldom available in remote regions
• Are difficult (and sometimes impossible) to repair
• Are more costly than steel wheels
• A crack in the bead area will allow air to leak from the tyre
• There is a greater risk of theft

So which is better: Steel or alloy rims?

We tend to think of steel rims as the stronger option, but in some cases, where potential impact forces are low or medium, alloy rims are less likely to distort, and are therefore less likely to cause other problems such as with balancing.

However, if the wheel is exposed to extreme impact forces (particularly if the tyre is flat or significantly deflated), alloy wheels are more likely to crack. Needless to say, a cracked alloy rim is almost impossible to fix on a trail and is likely to leak air. In most cases, the wheel will have to be scrapped.

In contrast, steel wheels are far more malleable, which means that they are easier to bend (especially on their edges), but are almost impossible to crack. In other words, most steel wheels can be knocked back into shape with a hammer in emergency situations, and it is very unlikely that a steel wheel will ever leave you stranded.

As far as other damages go, such as rock rash, etc., a steel wheel will obviously rust if badly scratched. However, in most cases, the corrosion is surface-bound and easy to brush off and repair. Of course, alloy wheels won’t rust if scratched, but because they tend to cost more, it’s often harder to face any damage to the rim. 

Typically speaking, steel wheels tend to weigh more than equally-sized alloy rims, but the differences are often marginal, and the impact on fuel consumption is far more likely to be affected by your tyre choice, particularly if the tyre’s carcass is a Light Truck variant, as opposed to a P-Metric alternative.

In many ways, debating ‘steel versus alloy’ is encapsulated in the Chinese proverb, “The green reed which bends in the wind, is stronger than the mighty oak which breaks in the storm.” So, the question of which is best depends on the storms (i.e. trails) you hope to chase.

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The post What’s better: steel or alloy wheels? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

If your vehicle has recently picked up a slight vibration and some road noise, it could be an indication that your tyres need rotating. Other symptoms of an overdue tyre-service include:

1. Higher costs per kilometre 
2. Uneven tread wear
3. Increased road noise, and
4. Steering wheel vibrations

So, why do tyres wear unevenly?

First off, your front tyres generally carry more load than the rear, and because they also take sharper turns, the wear rate is different. However, your tyres also wear differently from left to right, and that’s because we typically take corners faster to the right when driving on the left-hand side of the road. And lastly, the road’s natural camber also causes uneven tyre wear.

Rotating your tyres helps to equalise these wear rates, which means longer tyre life, quieter road noise and a smoother ride. This is true for all tyres, but failure to follow a rotation schedule is particularly noticeable on all-terrain and mud-terrain tyres.

But how often should you rotate your tyres? And, which is just as important, in what sequence should you rotate them?

4WD REVOLUTION: “CLICK HERE FOR AN INSTANT QUOTE ON 4X4 TYRES“

Relying on your local tyre dealer to know this information is not always a good idea, as the rotation pattern is different for Front-Wheel Drive (FWD), Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) and All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles. Throw in the problem of incorporating a fifth tyre (the spare), and the subject becomes even more confusing.

As a general rule, you should first check the vehicle’s Owner’s Manual for the recommended tyre-rotation sequence. However, if you can’t find the relevant info, there are several ways to rotate your tyres. Here’s what you need to know for your vehicle type…

FORWARD CROSS (FWD vehicles)

The front tyres move straight back to the rear, and the rear tyres move to the opposite front position.

See Diagram A below.

REARWARD CROSS (RWD vehicles and part-time 4x4s)

The rear tyres move straight up to the front, and the front tyres move to the opposite rear position.

See Diagram C below.

X-PATTERN (FWD vehicles)

This is an alternative sequence to the forward-cross pattern. Here, the front tyres move to the opposite rear positions, and the rear tyres move to the opposite front positions.

FRONT TO BACK (Directional Tyres)

Due to their specific tread pattern, directional tyres are designed to move only in a single direction, which means that the tyres have to move from the front to the back, while remaining on the same side of the vehicle. In other words, the front right tyre moves to the back right, and the front left tyre moves to the back left.

5 TYRE PATTERN (AWD Vehicles and Full-Time 4x4s)

If your vehicle is equipped with a full-size spare, you may want to incorporate the fifth tyre into your rotation sequence to ensure even wear. This can be particularly important for AWD vehicles and full-time 4x4s, where a difference in tyre diameter could put unnecessary strain on the vehicle’s drivetrain.

In this case, move the left-rear tyre to the left-front position, and the right rear tyre to the right front position. The right front tyre goes to the left rear position, the spare tyre moves to the right rear position, and the left front tyre then becomes the spare.

See Diagram D below.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU ROTATE YOUR TYRES?

Just as your vehicle has an annual maintenance plan, your tyres need regular maintenance to ensure optimum performance, tread-life, and comfort. Your vehicle’s service book should provide guidelines on how often your tyres need balancing, rotation and alignment.

Brought to you by TyreLife Solutions

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