Chat to a group of Fortuner owners and many will admit they toyed with the idea of buying a Hilux before finally settling on the SUV.

The double-cab versus SUV debate isn’t unique to Toyota. And it always ultimately comes down to two things: storage and cost.

Drop a canopy onto the back of a double-cab and you have a deep, square load area which offers generous and practical storage. There’s just one problem: the canopy itself.

A fit-for-purpose canopy, with rubberising, and a proper dust-sealing kit, can easily add another R50 – 65k to the vehicle’s sticker price. Whereas, an SUV like the Fortuner arrives pretty much ready to explore.

But while there’s not much you need to do to most SUVs to make them off-road ready and dust proof, there is one area where they typically struggle: packing space.

Caption: Most 4×4 SUVs are essentially turnkey, providing safe, dust- and weather-proof storage straight from the factory. The downside is that their available packing volume rarely matches that of a double-cab. This means SUV owners need to be more inventive – and more critical – about how they use the space available.

THE BOOT PROBLEM

Even with the third row of seats removed, SUV owners have to work harder and be more inventive with the space on offer.

Traditionally, that meant fitting a standard drawer system, putting the fridge on top, then adding a fridge slide, and often a protective cage around the fridge to keep camping gear away from the cooling vents and access points.

Happily, there’s a new solution on offer.

A collaboration between Big Country and National Luna has resulted in a completely new approach to fridge design.

It combines a dedicated drawer fridge with a purpose-designed drawer system to make considerably better use of an SUV’s limited boot space.

Caption: A conventional drawer system typically places the fridge on top, using a drop-down fridge slide to clear the roof when the lid is opened, while also making it easier to see and reach items at the bottom. It’s a tried-and-tested solution, but a fully loaded fridge can be surprisingly heavy, requiring increasingly elaborate – and expensive – slide mechanisms to manage the weight. The Drawer Fridge does away with all of that.

A DIFFERENT KIND OF FRIDGE

The heart of the system is National Luna’s completely different approach to fridge design. Unlike a conventional camping fridge, the 40- and 60-litre National Luna Drawer Fridges feature an externally-mounted compressor. This allows the fridge to sit low and integrate directly into a drawer system, eliminating the need for a conventional drop-down fridge slide.

That seemingly simple change has some significant advantages.

Because the fridge can be mounted at floor level, everything inside is easy to see and reach without having to drop the fridge to access its contents. More importantly, it changes what happens around the fridge.

There’s no protective cage to take up valuable space, no need to accommodate a drop-down fridge slide, and no awkward packing arrangements dictated by the fridge’s position. The entire drawer system also has a flat upper surface, creating a much more practical platform for luggage and camping gear.

LOW PROFILE, HIGH UTILITY 

Best of all, the overall height penalty is surprisingly small, and you still get plenty of vertical packing space that can be utilised.

Big Country was the first to take advantage of this new fridge design, developing a drawer system specifically around the National Luna Drawer Fridge.

The result is a storage solution that makes the most of an SUV’s available space, while also incorporating a dedicated area at the rear for mounting a dual-battery and charging system.

Caption: To make the most of every available centimetre, Big Country has incorporated a dedicated dual-battery shelf at the rear of the drawer system, providing a neat home for the auxiliary battery and charger.

NOT JUST FOR FORTUNERS

And the idea isn’t limited to mid-sized SUVs like the Fortuner.

The National Luna Drawer Fridge and Big Country Drawer System are also available for the Land Cruiser 100, 200, and 300 Series. These larger vehicles make use of the 60-litre Drawer Fridge, while the Fortuner uses the 40-litre unit.

Caption: Of course, the National Luna Drawer Fridge isn’t limited to off-the-shelf storage solutions. Its low-profile design makes it an ideal candidate for a custom drawer system in just about any vehicle.

There are more applications in the pipeline, including a 37-litre version and dedicated drawer system for the Ineos Grenadier. The Suzuki Jimny is also under consideration.

So, while this particular solution might have started with the Fortuner, the thinking behind it has a broader application: use the space you have more cleverly.

For updates on new applications as they become available, subscribe to the 4WD Revolution mailing list here.

PRICING

NL40 Single Control R13 700

NL40 Dual Control R15 400

NL60 Single Control R15 500

NL60 Dual Control R17 500

The Big Country Drawer Fridge storage system starts at R30 999.

To check if there’s a Drawer Fridge and Big Country storage solution for your vehicle, call:

Safari Centre on (021) 595 3910 for Western Cape enquiries.

Big Country on (011) 795 9700 for Gauteng enquiries.

National Luna on (011) 452 5438 for nationwide fridge enquiries. 

Have something to add? We’d love to hear from you. Contact us here.

The post How to maximise your SUV’s packing space. appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Authored by 4WD Revolution.

“How much did you pay for your all-terrain tyres again?”

You can tell by the smirk on your mate’s face that it’s a loaded question. He’s obviously got a better deal on the same tyre, but you play along anyway.

“I think it was R4.5k per tyre. Why do you ask?”

“Jeez, that’s quite pricey. I just bought the same tyre, same size, same tread pattern, for R3.5k per tyre.”

The statement stings. Not just because he’s taking obvious pleasure in one-upping you, but because you’re now wondering whether your tyre dealer ripped you off.

But wait, did he actually buy the same tyre?

Didn’t you once read an article in this very publication about how LT and P-metric tyres look almost identical, but are fundamentally different underneath?

That’s right, you probably did. 

Which means you didn’t necessarily get ripped off by your tyre dealer, and your mate hasn’t necessarily scored a better deal. In fact, if you’re a 4×4 owner who regularly ventures off-road, carries a fair load, and deflates his tyres on a regular basis, you may have bought the more appropriate tyre for your application.

Here’s why…

LT VERSUS P-METRIC

As mentioned above, we’ve discussed LT and P-metric tyres before, but usually as a footnote in a broader tyre story. This time, we’re putting these two different types under the microscope and seeing how they differ — so you don’t buy the wrong tyre for your application.

To recap, many all-terrain tyres are available in two specifications: LT (Light Truck) and P-metric (Passenger-metric), with the latter sometimes marketed as an SUV tyre.

When you buy a brand-new 4×4, the chances are very high it’ll arrive from the factory wearing P-metric all-terrain rubber.

The first thing to be aware of is that there’s nothing inherently wrong with a P-metric tyre. For the average 4×4 owner, there are actually some compelling reasons to choose this type. They’re generally lighter, cheaper, quieter, and more comfortable than their LT equivalents; while their lower weight can also contribute to better fuel economy.

The interesting part is that an LT and P-metric version of the same all-terrain tyre can look almost identical from the outside. Same tread pattern. Same sidewall design. Same overall appearance.

But underneath that familiar exterior, you’re looking at two totally different tyres. It’s like you’re comparing a RAV4 to a Land Cruiser – sure, they’re both Toyotas, but that’s where the similarity ends. 

LT tyres are generally heavier and more robustly constructed, with greater load-carrying capability, and greater resistance to the abuse associated with heavy loads, lower pressures, and rough terrain. They also often have deeper tread, although this isn’t an inherent requirement of an LT tyre.

Caption: Although deeper tread isn’t a prerequisite for LT classification, LT tyres often feature deeper treads than their P-metric counterparts. Depending on your driving style and application, this can translate into a longer service life.

In the case of our test tyres, measured at the same location on each, the P-metric had 10mm of tread depth, compared with 12mm on the LT. That may not sound like much, but it represents 20% more tread — and potentially 20% more value from your tyre.

So what this means is that an LT tyre is a sensible choice if your 4×4 is heavily laden with accessories, camping equipment and other gear, particularly if you regularly deflate your tyres when driving off-road.

The reason comes down to something we can’t see from the outside: construction.

An LT tyre’s more robust construction allows it to better tolerate the additional heat and deflection generated when carrying heavy loads at reduced pressures. Its stronger casing and sidewall can also provide greater resistance to impacts, and reduce sidewall bulging when deflated.

And that matters because a sidewall puncture is a very different proposition to a simple tread puncture. While a tread puncture can often be repaired, damage to the sidewall can render the tyre unrepairable — potentially turning a chance encounter with a sharp rock or piece of debris into an expensive mistake.

THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS

To illustrate some of the key differences between LT and P-metric tyres, we asked the good folks at General Tire if we could borrow two versions of the same tyre.

While many of the major tyre brands offer LT and P-metric versions of their popular all-terrain products, the General Grabber AT3 is a particularly good case study for comparing the differences.

Among South African vehicle brands, the P-metric Grabber AT3 is a popular OE (original equipment) tyre, which makes it a common choice when owners come to replace their original tyres – because we’re inclined to stay with what we know. 

But if you want to upgrade your vehicle’s off-road ability, the LT variant of the Grabber AT3 deserves serious consideration. Sure, it’s more expensive, but let’s look at what it offers you in real terms – actual measurements.

WEIGHT

Using a basic floor scale, the LT weighed in at 23.1 kg, versus 17.5 kg for the P-metric. That’s a difference of 5.6 kg per tyre — almost 33% more unsprung weight.

Much of this additional weight comes from the LT’s more robust construction, including its heavier casing, steel reinforcement, and deeper tread blocks.

The beefier construction allows the LT to safely contain higher pressures and carry greater loads.

There are downsides to all that extra rubber and reinforcement of course. More unsprung weight can affect fuel consumption, ride quality, and suspension performance, particularly if your shocks are already tired.

However, for an off-road-focused 4×4, those compromises are a worthwhile trade-off given the increased durability and load-carrying capability.

And weight is only the beginning.

LOAD

The most significant difference between an LT and P-metric tyre comes down to how much weight each is designed to carry.

Tyres communicate this information in several ways, including load index, load range, and maximum load capacity.

Explaining all the numbers and letters is probably better suited to a separate article, but the important thing to understand is this simple fact: An LT tyre is designed to carry more load than its seemingly identical P-metric sibling. That additional load-carrying capacity is closely linked to the tyre’s ability to safely contain higher inflation pressures.

As we’ve explained in previous tyre articles, the air inside the tyre does much of the heavy lifting. The tyre is essentially the vessel containing that air. Make the vessel stronger, and it can safely contain more pressure and support more weight.

Caption: The General Grabber AT3 is a popular all-terrain in South Africa, making it ideal for our LT versus P-Metric comparison.

Using our General Grabber AT3s as an example, the LT version has a maximum load of 1 450 kg at 5.5 bar, while the P-metric version is rated for 1 120 kg at 3.5 bar.

Of course, these maximum figures aren’t representative of how most of us use our tyres off-road. We’re more likely to reduce pressures for improved comfort, traction, and reduced impact damage.

This is where the LT tyre’s stronger construction becomes particularly relevant.

Caption: The tyre’s sidewall tells you exactly how much weight it can carry and, consequently, the maximum pressure it can handle.

HEAT

Heat is one of a tyre’s greatest enemies.

As a tyre deflects, the rubber and casing flex, generating heat. Add a heavy vehicle, a heavy load, low tyre pressures, and a corrugated road, and you have a recipe for significant tyre stress.

A more robustly constructed LT tyre is designed to cope with this punishment better than a P-metric tyre. Its stiffer construction generally means less deflection under load, helping it better manage the heat generated when operating at reduced pressures.

And when you’re hundreds of kilometres from the nearest tyre shop, that additional margin of durability can be worth considerably more than the difference in purchase price.

DEFLATION

If you ever want proof of just how widely misunderstood LT versus P-metric tyres are, look at how many publications, websites, and YouTube channels conduct all-terrain tyre tests without mentioning whether the tyres are LT or P-metric.

It’s a glaring omission.

It’s like comparing a RAV4 with a Land Cruiser but focusing on criteria like economy, manoeuvrability, and comfort. Of course, the RAV4 is likely to come out looking like the better vehicle.

To make matters worse, testers will often compare an LT all-terrain tyre with a P-metric all-terrain tyre at the same inflation pressure.

That methodology can be misleading because the two tyres won’t necessarily behave the same way at the same pressure.

Coming back to our two test tyres, we measured the footprint of both General Grabber AT3s at various pressures. As you can see in the images below, the LT consistently produces a shorter footprint than the P-metric at the same pressure – with the difference varying from approximately 7% to 8%.

If you tested these two tyres in sand at exactly the same pressure, the LT could therefore appear to perform significantly worse than the P-metric.

But is that a fair comparison?

The chosen pressure is somewhat arbitrary. If the objective is to compare the tyres’ ability to produce traction, shouldn’t the test be conducted at the same footprint length rather than simply the same pressure?

The point is that an LT tyre’s stiffer construction means it won’t deform and spread in the same way as a P-metric tyre at a given pressure.

That isn’t necessarily a disadvantage. It simply means the two tyres require different pressures across different applications.

This is one reason why a softer, more pliant P-metric tyre can be attractive to an off-roader who drives a relatively lightweight vehicle almost exclusively in sand. It can produce a larger footprint at a given pressure, while also being lighter, more comfortable, and cheaper to replace.

For a heavily-loaded touring 4×4 that spends its time dealing with corrugations and rocky tracks, the priorities can be very different.

THE DEALER DEBACLE

The decision between LT and P-metric really isn’t that complicated. If you frequently drive off-road, heavily load your 4×4, travel to remote places, and regularly reduce your tyre pressures, an LT tyre will generally be the more appropriate choice.

The problem is that not every tyre dealer understands this distinction.

There can be a disconnect between what a tyre salesperson thinks the customer wants — the cheapest possible price — and what the customer actually needs: the right tyre for their application.

There are several reasons for this. Tyre sales staff may be incentivised by sales volumes, staff turnover can be high, and many tyre dealers primarily deal with passenger vehicles rather than dedicated off-road applications.

Caption: While it makes sense to shop around for the best possible tyre deal, it makes even more sense to build a relationship with a tyre dealer who understands the demands of off-road applications — and preferably, one who’s a 4×4 enthusiast himself. Photo credit: Roam Overlanding.

That last point is worth highlighting. Much of the misinformation people receive about tyres could be avoided if they bought from a dealer who specialises in off-road tyres — or, better yet, one whose owner or staff are 4×4 enthusiasts themselves.

Ultimately, however, the responsibility still rests with you, the buyer, to understand what you’re buying.

Because if two tyres look identical but one costs considerably more, the cheaper tyre isn’t necessarily the bargain you think it is.

A PERSONAL ACCOUNT

Ed’s Note: Over the years, I’ve lost a fair number of tyres due to sidewall damage. But, interestingly, I’ve never lost an LT tyre.

And, come to think of it, I’ve also never lost a P-metric tyre when I’ve kept that tyre at the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended pressure.

Almost every tyre I’ve lost to sidewall damage has been a P-metric that I deflated.

It seems I’m a slow learner. I probably should have spotted the trend sooner and stopped deflating P-metric tyres altogether. But when you’re 20 km down a badly-corrugated road, the temptation to “just let out a wee bit of air” to make the ride more bearable eventually creeps in.

Then, before you know it, you’re listening to the all-too-familiar sound of air rushing out of a tyre.

That doesn’t mean P-metric tyres are bad. If you primarily stick to gravel roads, rarely deflate, and seldom carry a heavy load, a P-metric tyre will probably serve you perfectly well.

For everyone else, an LT should be at the top of your shopping list.

Caption: I once travelled through Mozambique’s Limpopo National Park in a stock-standard Nissan Patrol fitted with factory P-metric tyres. Eventually, I ran out of tyre plugs and had to borrow some from others in our convoy. It was my first real-world lesson in how the wrong tyre, in the wrong application, can completely dominate a trip.

PRICE

There are no market-related rules governing how LT and P-metric tyres should differ in price, and publishing specific prices here could quickly make this story inaccurate. However, you can expect to see price differences of anywhere from 30% to 50% between two seemingly identical all-terrain tyres.

WHICH ONE SHOULD YOU BUY?

P-METRIC:

Mostly road driving

Lightly loaded

Occasional gravel/off-road

Comfort and fuel economy priorities

Lightweight vehicle

Rarely deflates

LT:

Heavily accessorised vehicle

Regularly carries camping/touring loads

Frequent off-road use

Regularly deflates tyres

Corrugations and rocky terrain

Long-distance/remote travel

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The post The No. 1 mistake off-roaders make when choosing an all-terrain tyre appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Advertorial: Why every motorist needs a set of snow chains

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A surprising number of South Africans believe that 4x4s and snow are a match made in heaven.

They’re not.

Every winter, motorists head for snow-covered mountain passes expecting their 4x4s to handle whatever nature throws at them. After all, if a vehicle can conquer mud, sand and rocky trails, surely a little snow won’t be a problem.

The reality is very different.

When it comes to snow and ice, traction — not drivetrain configuration or the latest off-road tyre — is what matters most. A 4WD system may help a vehicle move forward, but it does little to help when you’re trying to stop or steer on a slippery surface. Without adequate grip, even the most capable 4×4 can become little more than a passenger on its own journey.

That’s a particular concern in South Africa, where snow is relatively rare and most drivers have little experience dealing with icy roads. Add steep mountain passes, hidden obstacles, cambered sections and patches of black ice to the equation, and it’s easy to see how a scenic snow trip can quickly become a dangerous situation.

Caption: The difference between getting stuck and getting home. On snow and ice, even the most capable 4×4 can lose traction. Fitted with RUD snow chains, however, it becomes an effective recovery vehicle capable of helping others when conditions deteriorate.

Fortunately, there is a simple way to dramatically improve traction, steering and braking performance in slippery conditions: snow chains.

However, although they’re commonly referred to as “snow chains”, the term doesn’t tell the full story. Modern traction chains are designed to improve grip on a wide variety of slippery surfaces, including snow, ice, mud, wet gravel and loose off-camber roads. Their ability to generate mechanical grip makes them just as useful on muddy mountain tracks or gravel passes as they are on snow-covered roads.

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NOT ALL SNOW CHAINS ARE CREATED EQUAL

Broadly speaking, there are two common styles of snow chain: the traditional ladder pattern and the more advanced diamond pattern.

The ladder-type design uses straight cross chains running across the tyre and is generally manufactured from round welded chain. While relatively simple and widely available, it only provides grip when each cross chain contacts the ground, meaning traction comes and goes as the wheel rotates.

What’s more, a major flaw in ladder chains is that, because the cross chains are not continuously tensioned, they tend to move around the tyre, limiting travel speeds to around 5 km/h in many applications.

Diamond-pattern chains work differently…

Because the chain forms a continuous network around the tyre, there’s constant tension across the entire assembly and a greater number of contact points with the ground.

Thanks to the diamond layout, there is always chain in contact with the surface, providing more consistent traction for accelerating, steering and braking, particularly on ice where maintaining continuous grip is critical.

This is one reason why simply copying the appearance of a traditional ladder chain or making homemade chains rarely delivers the same performance.

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DETAILS MAKE A DIFFERENCE

The design of the chain itself also plays a significant role in how well it performs.

Quality traction chains are typically manufactured from case-hardened steel, creating a hard, wear-resistant outer surface while retaining a tougher, slightly more flexible core. This allows the chain to withstand repeated impacts without becoming brittle.

Another feature found on premium chains is the use of square-profile links rather than conventional round links. The sharp edges of the square profile effectively bite into snow, ice and loose surfaces, while the increased contact area provides additional grip.

Keeping the overall chain profile compact is equally important. Fitting chains increases the tyre’s overall diameter, so minimising chain thickness helps maintain body and suspension clearance, particularly when steering is on full lock.

Drivers should always consult the chain’s product manual for the correct body-to-tyre clearance requirements and recommendations.

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BUILT FOR CHANGING CONDITIONS

One of the biggest misconceptions about traction chains is that they can only be used on snow.

In reality, modern traction chains can safely be driven on hard surfaces such as tar when necessary, allowing drivers to transition between snow, gravel and sealed roads without constantly stopping to remove and refit them. That can be particularly useful on mountain passes where road conditions often change over relatively short distances.

While chains can be driven on tar and other hard surfaces, they will naturally wear faster the higher the vehicle’s speed. As a general rule, reducing speed on hard surfaces will significantly extend chain life.

Caption: Snow chains aren’t just for vehicles. RUD’s specially designed Shoe Chains provide sure-footed grip and added confidence when walking on snow and ice.

On loose gravel, mud and similar surfaces, quality chains can comfortably handle speeds of around 30-40 km/h while still providing excellent traction.

On snow, many drivers report that the chains are barely noticeable. On tar, they produce a firmer, bumpier ride, but one that remains manageable over moderate distances.

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THE IMPORTANCE OF FAST FITMENT

Weather can change quickly in the mountains, which is why ease of installation matters.

A quality diamond-pattern traction chain can typically be fitted in around 90 seconds per wheel. By comparison, traditional ladder chains can often take between ten and fifteen minutes to install, depending on the terrain and conditions.

Caption: When seconds count.
RUD’s diamond-pattern chains can typically be fitted in around 90 seconds per wheel, while traditional ladder chains can take up to 10 to 15 minutes to install.

That difference becomes significant when you’re standing roadside in freezing temperatures or during a snowstorm. Perhaps more importantly, diamond-pattern chains can usually be fitted after you’ve already encountered slippery conditions rather than having to anticipate exactly where they’ll be needed.

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HOW MANY CHAINS DO YOU NEED?

The correct number of chains depends on the vehicle.

At a minimum, front-wheel-drive vehicles should have chains fitted to the front axle, where both steering and drive take place.

Rear-wheel-drive vehicles should ideally have chains fitted to both the front and rear axles. This improves traction while also maintaining steering control.

Caption: Unlike driving on sand, RUD chains are designed to be used with tyres inflated to their recommended road pressure for optimum performance and safety. They’re equally effective on loose surfaces such as gravel and mud, and can also be driven over short stretches of tar without needing to be removed.

The same principle applies to all-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive vehicles. Although fitting one pair will significantly improve traction, fitting chains to both axles provides the greatest improvement in braking, steering and overall vehicle stability.

If you’re towing a trailer, fitting chains to both axles becomes even more important. Chains fitted only to the front axle can leave the rear of the vehicle vulnerable to being pushed sideways by the trailer on slippery descents.

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A FEW PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS

Unlike driving on sand, tyre pressures should not be reduced when using traction chains. Tyres should remain at their recommended operating pressure to ensure the chains fit and perform correctly.

Drivers should also remember that fitting chains slightly increases the overall diameter of the wheel assembly. Before driving, it’s worth checking that adequate clearance exists between the chains, suspension and bodywork, particularly when steering is at full lock.

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MORE THAN JUST A SNOW ACCESSORY

For many South Africans, traction chains are something that only comes out when snow falls.

In reality, they’re an all-season recovery and safety tool capable of transforming vehicle control on a wide range of loose surfaces and slippery off-camber terrain.

Whether you’re heading to the Drakensberg in winter, exploring muddy back roads after heavy rain in the Tankwa, or tackling loose gravel mountain passes, traction chains provide something no four-wheel-drive system can generate on its own: grip.

For those who regularly venture into challenging conditions, that extra grip can make the difference between reaching your destination safely or becoming stranded.

Quality traction chains are available in sizes to suit everything from passenger vehicles to heavy-duty and mining applications, with prices typically ranging from around R4,000 to R7,000 depending on tyre size — considerably less than the cost of many winches or premium recovery boards.

Replacement parts are also readily available, allowing individual components to be serviced rather than replacing an entire chain set.

For more information on RUD’s high-quality, diamond-pattern snow chains, or to obtain a no-obligation quotation, contact SecureTech:

Tel: 0861 040 506 or (011) 792 5226

Email: info@snowchains.co.za

Web: www.snowchains.co.za

The post TRACTION SATISFACTION appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Authored by Grant Spolander and Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF)

Ed’s note: The feature below was published in the July/August 2025 issue of 4WD Revolution. Click here to receive more features like this delivered to your mailbox.

ARE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS DELIBERATELY AVOIDING THE DIRTY DIESEL PROBLEM?

I recall reading a story many years ago about how much it would cost to build a Fiat Uno from the parts catalogue; I think it totalled almost R1 million, at a time when the vehicle retailed for around R50k. The article wasn’t an attack on Fiat specifically, but rather illustrated that the automotive industry isn’t shy about charging hefty margins on spare parts.

But overpriced parts aren’t exactly groundbreaking news, nor are they evidence of some sinister conspiracy. But high parts prices are arguably one of the main reasons why so many people ditch their vehicles as soon as the warranty expires. The sad truth is that many of us choose to keep up with automotive debt (including the infamous balloon payment) rather than face the threat of costly repairs and spare parts.

But what if vehicle manufacturers weren’t taking steps to address a known issue in South Africa, an issue which often results in expensive repairs and subsequent parts sales? A cynical person might conclude that their failure to act was influenced by a profit motive. I don’t know. You should make up your own mind on this one.

WHY DIRTY DIESEL IS A PROBLEM

The instructions they gave me were simple: “Go to your nearest packaging supply store and buy five glass jars with sealable lids. Place the jars in your dishwasher on a hot wash. Once the drying cycle is complete and the jars are bone dry, quickly put on the lids to prevent contaminants from entering the jars. Then, visit five different fuel stations in your area (Cape Town), gather a diesel sample from each, and send the samples to our lab in JHB. When you’re next in Gauteng, come to our offices and together we’ll check the diesel quality under a microscope.”

I was chatting to Dean Puntis from Ultrafine Depth Filtration (UDF), and the above instructions formed part of my homework for this story. I’ve been wanting to write a feature on diesel filtration for some time, and after doing some desk research, I discovered that many leads led to UDF.

Dean wanted me to see, first hand, what the diesel quality was like in my area. I was too intrigued to turn down the offer. However, diesel quality is only part of the story…

It turns out that most modern engine manufacturers recommend a diesel filter spec of between 3 and 5 microns, whereas injector manufacturers stipulate that dirt particles should be removed down to 1 to 3 microns. Vehicle manufacturers don’t accept warranty claims stemming from dirty fuel. So, if your brand-new engine goes “pop” due to dirty diesel (and they can prove it), you’re largely on your own.

But it’s the variance between what the vehicle manufacturer recommends and what the injector manufacturer recommends that’s potentially damaging your engine. Here’s how…

POOR ATOMISATION

In modern diesel engines, fuel enters the cylinder under extremely high pressure and is atomised by the injectors into a fine mist. Proper atomisation ensures that all the available diesel is burnt, maximising energy extraction and efficiency.

But if atomisation isn’t optimal and overfueling occurs, the fuel burns during both the downward and upward strokes of the piston, raising combustion and exhaust-gas temperatures. This additional heat (which the engine isn’t designed for) not only passes through the turbocharger (causing oil breakdown and bearing failure), but can also melt pistons and cause cylinder head damage, depending on the extent of the overfueling.

“Engines and Turbochargers don’t fail for no reason, nor do injectors. There’s a reason behind the failure, and when we look closer, we find that 85 to 90% of all diesel engine failures are due to poor fuel quality, either in the form of dirt particles, water contamination, and/or viscosity” – UDF

THE DANGERS OF OVERFUELING

Even the most microscopic contaminants can disrupt the injector’s performance and the atomisation process by forming larger globules that are more difficult to atomise into a fine mist.

What’s more, contaminants can affect the injector’s performance by causing restrictions in the piston/plunger area or by wearing the delivery holes into an oval shape. As a result, instead of the diesel entering the cylinder as a fine mist, it arrives more like a jet stream or in tiny goblets. This exacerbates the problem, resulting in more unburnt fuel and higher exhaust-gas temperatures.

Unburnt diesel can pool on top of the piston, and when ignited, can result in significant carbon deposits. These deposits trap combustion heat instead of allowing it to escape through the exhaust.

Overfueling can also lead to varnishing or “washing” of the cylinder walls, which compromises the performance of the upper piston rings and may cause diesel to leak past the pistons into the sump. This process of deterioration doesn’t take months or years, either; it can occur in just a few days, depending on the severity of the overfueling.

And, because diesel and engine oil blend seamlessly together without separating, the diesel interferes with the engine oil’s performance. This leads to changes in viscosity and a decrease in the efficacy of the oil’s additives, particularly boron, which acts as a friction modifier to prevent metal-to-metal wear.

“We generally advise people to check their engine oil quality and engine oil levels regularly, especially if they’re travelling to remote areas where poor-quality diesel is a common issue. If you notice that your oil levels are rising on the dipstick or the oil is becoming thinner, it’s quite likely that your diesel is mixing with your engine oil” – UDF

WEAR CHECK

Much like blood tests can unveil underlying health problems long before you’re aware of symptoms, oil analysis can tell you everything you need to know about your 4×4’s engine health.

Engine oils contain several additives and performance markers which quickly become unbalanced if something is wrong. The most widely known oil analysis is called ‘Wear Check’, and it typically costs around R250 per test.

The information it provides is invaluable, as it immediately tells you how the oil is performing, what breakdown is occurring, the number of carbon deposits, and the wear rate on the engine.

The team at UDF uses Wear Check reports to assess the performance of their products and to extend service intervals for their clients. The principle is straightforward: the more contaminants you remove from the diesel, the better the atomisation, leading to a cleaner burn and, consequently, cleaner engine oil.

Filtering diesel to 1 micron is not a commonly recognised concept among 4×4 owners, even though it aligns with recommendations from injector manufacturers. However, the practice offers a significant financial incentive within the mining sector.

“Most major earth-moving companies in South Africa, as well as some in Australia, are utilising Ultrafine Depth Filters. One of our clients has extended their oil change intervals from every 250 hours to every 1 000+ hours. To give you an idea, an ore-moving truck requires anywhere from 120 to 185 litres of synthetic oil. Now consider a fleet of 100 such trucks, all able to extend their oil change intervals fourfold, along with the time and costs associated with oil change services; the savings amount to millions. It’s essential to note that they continually monitor oil quality to ensure the filters are functioning effectively. We’ve only had one earth-moving equipment company request the removal of our filters because they felt it was impacting their sales of replacement engine parts. Of course, these companies go beyond what the average 4×4 owner might do by incorporating engine oil bypass filtration, which further removes contaminants from the oil. But by filtering diesel to an ultrafine level, 4×4 owners can extend their oil change intervals and save a significant amount of money.” – UDF

UNDER THE MICROSCOPE

Back at the lab, I’m finally examining my homework under the microscope, feeling anxious that I might have unknowingly filled my tank with poor-quality diesel. Fortunately, most of the fuel stations I regularly visit have a relatively good reputation. One station is slightly worse than the others, but none of them is terrible. The station closest to my house looks immaculate, most likely due to the recent installation of new underground tanks.

Interestingly, busy fuel stations that constantly replenish their stocks tend to provide cleaner diesel. On the other hand, fuel stations in remote areas with tanks that have been underground or hanging in the air for decades are likely to be less reliable.

Either way, the microscope I’m looking through picks up the tiniest detail, and in the case of diesel, it’s not the big stuff you have to worry about. Most factory-fitted diesel filters easily capture large particles. It’s the quantity of the really fine stuff – usually silica – that does all the damage to your injectors.

I initially thought the diesel samples I brought from the coast would be worse than the samples collected by UDF around Johannesburg. However, when I shared this opinion with the lab technicians at UDF, they couldn’t help but laugh. “No, no, no,” they said. “Many of the samples we test around Johannesburg are horrendous!”

There are dozens of sample patches all over the UDF lab, some cleaner than others, but a number of them look like a dusty sunset over an African plain.

WHY STANDARD FILTERS AREN’T ENOUGH

Most factory-fitted filters face a challenging balancing act. They must effectively remove contaminants while allowing sufficient flow without becoming clogged before the required service intervals. For this reason, an Ultrafine filter cannot serve as the primary filter for a vehicle, as it will quickly become clogged with contaminants, restricting fuel flow.

Therefore, any filtration system that filters down to one micron should be installed in line AFTER the factory-fitted unit.

Standard diesel filters typically feature a 2-ply pleated or semi-rapped design that captures contaminants between the folds of the paper. However, what you can’t see is that smaller contaminants are captured by tiny microfibers that are barely visible to the naked eye.

Unfortunately, these microfibers are quite fragile. When exposed to vibrations, pulsation, bumps, or impacts, they tend to break off, allowing contaminants to pass through. “Watch this,” Dean says, tapping the fuel filter with his knuckle while diesel flows through their bench-test filtration machine.

Although the standard filter appears to have removed some of the ultra-fine contaminants they intentionally add to the test fuel, the moment Dean taps the filter housing, large debris is immediately visible in the output jar. As someone who has made his career out of driving 4x4s down bumpy trails, you can imagine that this revelation came as quite a shock.

“Interestingly, an old filter often does a better job of removing contaminants than a new one because the accumulated debris helps trap even more pollutants. However, the downside is that if the filter is jolted or shaken – such as when hitting a pothole or driving over corrugations – the microfibers between the pleats can break off and release the contaminants they’ve collected” – UDF

WHERE DOES DIRTY DIESEL COME FROM?

So, where do all these contaminants come from? The engineers at UDF explain, “If you’re a fuel wholesaler, the general rule is that every time you move fuel, you filter fuel. However, the reality in South Africa is quite different. Much of the supply chain and fuel transport systems are old and unfiltered.”

Interestingly, the breather pipes you see at most fuel stations have a 180-degree bend at the top to prevent dirt from entering the tanks. That’s the only safeguard – just a bend. Apart from that, there is no filtering on the breather pipes. As temperature fluctuations occur, diesel expands and contracts, which draws air into the storage tank through the breather pipe. Over time, the inhaled debris accumulates at the bottom of the tank.

The same situation applies to most vehicles, which are equipped with fuel tank breather pipes. However, these pipes often lack filters at the end of them, too. You might be wondering about the forecourt pumps that deliver the fuel to your 4×4. While the pumps do have their own filtration systems, they typically consist of 10 to 20 micron spin-on type paper filters – similar to what’s found in most cars.

Some fuel stations do see the benefits of ultrafine filtration, particularly those that supply diesel to large fleet-based companies. Consider the potential backlash if a courier company experiences multiple engine failures traced back to a single fuel source. Not only could the supplier risk losing a significant contract, but they may also be held liable for damages.

WHAT NOW?

Although aftermarket add-on diesel filters are pretty commonplace amongst off-road enthusiasts, they’re generally the type of units designed to remove water or moisture from the diesel. While this is vitally important to prevent injector-tip failure, most factory-fitted water separators work quite well.

“Although we offer aftermarket water separators, the truth is that most standard water separators are usually quite effective. The issue lies not with the separator itself but with the fact that people don’t drain the water trap often enough. We typically recommend bleeding the separator at least once a month. If this is not done, the water level can rise high enough that it gets sucked back into the fuel line and enters the fuel system, causing super-heated steam in the injector tips” – UDF

What’s truly remarkable about this topic is that although it’s well known that diesel quality in South Africa isn’t particularly good, and there have been multiple scandals involving paraffin being added to diesel to bump up profit margins – often at the expense of your engine’s longevity, very few people are aware of diesel filtration as it relates to atomisation, oil degradation, fuel economy, emissions, performance, and engine longevity.

With that in mind, I asked the UDF team, “How many 4×4 fitment shops are reselling these filters?” They replied, “In the Johannesburg area, a few. In the Cape Town area, maybe one or two.” It’s surprising because the installation process seems relatively straightforward, and the upfront cost isn’t too bad. Less than a tenth of what an injector replacement would cost you.

This raises an important question: If ultrafine filtration is affordable, readily available, easy to install, and proven to work in the cost-driven mining sector, why aren’t vehicle manufacturers including it as a factory option? It’s an especially relevant question considering the numerous scandals surrounding diesel quality in South Africa.

I pose the same question to Dean, who replies, “In their defence, the vehicle manufacturers aren’t to blame for South Africa’s poor diesel quality. And the same wear and tear happens in overseas markets, but it just happens a whole lot faster in SA due to our diesel. As for why they don’t fit finer filters to combat the issue? I suppose that could relate to the service plan and the fact that an ultrafine filter may increase the number of service intervals needed per year just to replace the diesel filter. All in all, it’s a uniquely South African problem. And we’re small fish in a big global pond”.

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Answer supplied by National Luna.

Click here to view National Luna’s range of solar-ready products.

To answer this question you first need to know:

• How much energy are you using on a daily basis?
• How much time do you have to replace it?

WHAT SIZE SOLAR PANEL FOR CAMPING?

Naturally, your 12V camping fridge plays a big role in your energy use over a 24-hour period. However, calculating that power consumption can be difficult when there are so many variables at play, including: The ambient operating temperature, the time of the day, how often you open and close your fridge, and of course, your preferred fridge / freezer temperature.

Typically speaking, a premium 12V camping fridge may use between 30Ah and 45Ah over a 24-hour period. Depending on daylight conditions, as well as your geographic location, most campsites have anywhere between 2- and 7-hours of usable solar energy.

Considering that an 85W panel produces roughly 5 amps per hour in ideal conditions, you would need at least 7-hours to replenish 35 amps.

Of course, the above calculation is radically simplified and based on minimum solar requirements as per: fridge size, performance, operating conditions, and how often you’re opening and closing the fridge. What’s more, the calculations don’t account for non-ideal conditions such as:

• Dew / Dust on your solar panel
• Partly cloudy weather
• High ambient temperatures and additional strain on your fridge
• How many appliances you’re powering, and…
• The fact that you need to power your fridge at the same time that you’re recharging your auxiliary battery

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MINIMUM PANEL SIZE

This is why it’s best to upsize the panel to a 120W / 150W unit if you’re thinking in terms of minimum requirements.

What’s more, upsizing your panel size will help to produce enough energy to power additional camping accessories such as LED lighting, and/or a cellphone charger. In some cases, many campers may even opt for a 200W or 250W panel for an additional margin.

However, bear in mind that your regulator would need to be rated to this capacity, and that such a panel may be impractically large in the case of non-flexible units.

ENERGY SAVING TIPS FOR CAMPING

Once you start calculating your energy consumption, it becomes clear that optimising your energy usage is far more practical than buying the biggest panel that will fit in/on your vehicle.

What’s more, some campers make use of a 220V inverter to power their camera and/or laptop chargers, without realising that the inverter itself is drawing significant energy. If possible, it’s generally best to substitute your 220V camera / laptop charger with 12V USB alternative. This alone can eliminate the need for an inverter and cut your energy use in half.

On that note, it would be wise to increase your solar power to a 200W panel if you’re forced to use an inverter, and, to make use of a MPPT solar regulator as opposed to a PWM unit.

Naturally, other energy cutbacks can be made in the form of efficient LED lighting, as well as opting for a fridge / freezer with high-quality insulation, compressor performance, and a correctly sized power cable. Other energy saving tips include…

• Always keep your camping fridge / freezer’s latches closed to ensure optimum seal performance.
• Never pack items around the fridge’s ventilation. Doing so will raise the operating temperature and use more battery power.
• Set your camping fridge / freezer’s temperature to a low setting while driving, then adjust the temperature to a more economical setting once you arrive at camp.
• Avoid parking your vehicle directly in sunlight.
• Keep your camping fridge as full as possible.

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The post HOW MUCH SOLAR POWER DO I NEED FOR CAMPING? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

I tend to gauge 4×4 equipment in a cost-versus-reward ratio.

For example: The cost of a recovery winch is high relative to how often you’ll use it, but in the event of you desperately needing one, the price is irrelevant.

This is true for many accessories: Bull-bar, long-range tank, suspension, Light Truck tyres, a diff-lock… it’s a long list.

However, there are one or two accessories on the market where the costs are crazy low, despite the benefits being incalculably high. Namely: a winch damper! Otherwise known as a ‘winch blanket’.

So what does a winch damper do, and, how do you use it properly?

Let’s delve into it… 

WHAT DOES A WINCH DAMPER DO?

In short, the purpose of a winch damper is simple: In the event of your winch cable (or snatch strap) breaking under load, the winch damper is designed to weigh the cable down so that it hits the ground and reduces its speed and kinetic energy, while directing any potential impact forces away from the vehicle.

Without a winch damper you run the risk of the broken cable or strap causing significant damage to the recovered vehicle, or worse yet, resulting in a life-threatening injury.

DO WINCH DAMPERS WORK?

But do winch dampers really work, or are they just gimmicky items that take up space in your recovery bag?

Well, the answer to that question depends on three things:

• The quality of the winch damper
• Where you position it on the cable
• How many winch dampers you use

It would be easy to assume that any item could be flopped over a winch cable to dampen its forces, but it’s not uncommon for a low-quality winch damper to tear apart in a recovery situation. This is particularly true for broken snatch straps which release incredible amounts of energy once they fail.

That said, it’s quite likely that most winch dampers (even the good ones) will rip in the event of a broken cable or strap, but what you don’t want is for the bag to be easily flung off the cable when that happens. The damper needs to stay on the cable long enough to drag it to the ground.

On that note, the effectiveness of a winch damper radically improves the moment it’s filled with sand or dirt. Which is why the bag you purchase should include a pocket(s) of some sort

SAFETY TIP: Never fill the pocket with rocks, as this could turn the bag itself into a dangerous projectile.

HOW TO USE A WINCH DAMPER

The obvious question is: Where do you place the bag over the cable, at the front, rear, or in the middle of the cable’s length?

There’s some debate around which position works best, but it’s widely accepted that the best place to position your winch damper is somewhere between the middle- and the far-end of the cable. This is because most cables typically fail close to the “hook up” point. Or at least: within the last third of the cable’s length.

Ideally, the more dampers you use, the better the result. So from that perspective, the more the merrier.

However, what matters most is that you don’t rush the recovery process, and that you take the time to assess the situation. At the end of the day, getting home safely is your number one priority.

More winch-damper tips from SecureTech

1. Never overfill the bag as the stitching may fail during a “normal” recovery.
2. Failure to fill the bag with enough sand or dirt may significantly reduce its effectiveness. That said, winch dampers with small pocket sizes are generally ineffective.
3. We recommend that a winch damper be used on either end of the recovery system. We generally spec one damper (@ 5m) from each vehicle, and an additional damper along each 5m interval if the rope/cable/strap is long enough.
4. We prefer using our winch dampers in conjunction with safety lanyards.
5. SecureTech winch blankets can also be used with kinetic ropes, webbings, winch extension strap, pull straps, winch cables, and plasma ropes.

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The post Do winch dampers work and how to use them properly appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

Last month we chatted about steel rims vs alloy rims, and pointed out that steel rims are preferable in extreme off-road situations where damage to the rim is likely to occur. In these cases, an alloy rim is more likely to crack due to impact, whereas a steel rim can be bent or hammered back into shape in emergency situations.

This month, we’re talking about beadlock rims: what are they, how do they work, and who should fit them?

WHAT IS A BEADLOCK RIM?

Once again, if you’re driving extreme off-road trails where vehicle-, tyre- or rim damage is likley to occur, you may choose to deflate your tyres to extremely low levels.

However, in the case of a standard rim (steel or alloy), the bead area of the tyre is seated against the rim with the help of internal air pressure. If the pressure inside the tyre is deflated too low, the force necessary to seal the bead may not be enough, and the risk of de-beading the tyre is high.

If a tyre does de-bead (also known as ‘break its bead’), it will continue to leak air until the tyre…

• Is completely flat
• Runs off the rim entirely
• Sustains permanent friction damage to the bead/seal area

What’s more, a tyre that has broken its bead is a difficult thing to re-inflate, and may require an air volume that’s beyond the abilities of most 12V air compressors. Lastly, even if you do manage to pump enough air into the tyre for the bead area to re-seat, there’s a good chance that dirt and sand will get trapped under the seal and continue to leak air as a slow puncture.

In short, the more you deflate, the greater the chance of de-beading your tyres and having to endure all the hassles listed above. So what’s the solution?

ENTER: THE BEADLOCK RIM

In the case of beadlocks, the rim features a bolted outer ring that clamps the tyre’s bead area. Meaning, the tyre is no longer reliant on air pressure to seal the bead, but rather, it’s “locked” in place by the bolted ring. With the tyre now clamped down, there’s far less chance of the bead breaking under extremely low air pressures. This allows extreme off-roaders to deflate their tyres for better performance over loose, slippery, or wet terrain. 

On that note, let’s look at some of the pros and cons of fitting a beadlock rim…

PROS:

• Better off-road traction
• More comfort
• Less tread belt punctures
• Tyre moulds to the contours of the terrain
• Many people love the look of a beadlock rim
• The tyre should remain on the rim in the event of a high-speed blowout (Information credit: Allan Venter)
• Beadlocks may help to prevent sand and mud from forcing their way between the tyre and the rim (Information credit: Allan Venter)

CONS:

• Far more costly than a standard rim (sometimes double or triple the price)
• Difficult, costly, and time consuming to install
• Due to the additional work, some tyre dealers may refuse to fit a tyre to a beadlock rim
• Very hard to balance
• Extreme deflation will forfeit your tyres’ warranty
• Beadlocks are heavier than standard rims, leading to less fuel economy and potentially less engine performance
• Maintenance, you may have to re-torque the beadlock’s bolts several times a year
• Harder steering response from significantly aired-down tyres
• At extremely low air pressure, structural tyre damage is likely to occur
• Greater chance of sidewall tyre damage due to rock pinching

CONCLUSION

Although beadlocks certainly look the part, unless you’re an avid off-roader who frequently drives grade 5 trails and suffers regular de-beading problems, there’s little to no reason for fitting a beadlock rim. It’s also important to realise that any extreme tyre deflation will void your tyre’s warranty, regardless of what tyre make or brand you have.

If you like the look of a beadlock rim, but don’t want to deal with the maintenance issues that come with owning a set, you can also fit an imitation beadlock rim. TyreLife Solutions distributes a wide range of alloy rims, steel rims, imitation beadlock rims, and genuine beadlock rims. Follow the link for more information: www.tyrelife.co.za

Brought to you by TyreLife Solutions

The post What are beadlock rims and are they worth it? appeared first on 4WD Revolution.

If you’re in the market for a new set of rims, you may be contemplating the benefits of steel wheels versus alloys. Let’s look at the pros and cons of each.

ARE STEEL WHEELS BETTER?

PROS:

• Malleable and resistant to high-impact forces
• Easy to bend, but very hard to crack
• Strong centre
• Can be re-shaped / repaired on a trail or remote area
• Affordable
• Widely available, even in remote regions

CONS:

• Weak edges in terms of distortion and bending
• High heat-conductivity
• Prone to rust if scratched
• Limited sizes that are specific to off-road use and high-profile tyres
• Slightly heavier
• Harder to balance if distorted
• Limited design styles in terms of customising

ARE ALLOY WHEELS BETTER?

PROS:

• Are extremely rigid and resistant to mild impact forces
• Are hard to bend or distort
• Have strong edges
• Won’t rust if they have been scratched
• Are better suited to low- or medium-impact forces
• Are easier to balance
• Have a wide range of styles available
• Offer a wide range of sizes for most vehicle types
• Have low heat-conductivity

CONS:

• More likely to crack in a severe impact
• Are seldom available in remote regions
• Are difficult (and sometimes impossible) to repair
• Are more costly than steel wheels
• A crack in the bead area will allow air to leak from the tyre
• There is a greater risk of theft

So which is better: Steel or alloy rims?

We tend to think of steel rims as the stronger option, but in some cases, where potential impact forces are low or medium, alloy rims are less likely to distort, and are therefore less likely to cause other problems such as with balancing.

However, if the wheel is exposed to extreme impact forces (particularly if the tyre is flat or significantly deflated), alloy wheels are more likely to crack. Needless to say, a cracked alloy rim is almost impossible to fix on a trail and is likely to leak air. In most cases, the wheel will have to be scrapped.

In contrast, steel wheels are far more malleable, which means that they are easier to bend (especially on their edges), but are almost impossible to crack. In other words, most steel wheels can be knocked back into shape with a hammer in emergency situations, and it is very unlikely that a steel wheel will ever leave you stranded.

As far as other damages go, such as rock rash, etc., a steel wheel will obviously rust if badly scratched. However, in most cases, the corrosion is surface-bound and easy to brush off and repair. Of course, alloy wheels won’t rust if scratched, but because they tend to cost more, it’s often harder to face any damage to the rim. 

Typically speaking, steel wheels tend to weigh more than equally-sized alloy rims, but the differences are often marginal, and the impact on fuel consumption is far more likely to be affected by your tyre choice, particularly if the tyre’s carcass is a Light Truck variant, as opposed to a P-Metric alternative.

In many ways, debating ‘steel versus alloy’ is encapsulated in the Chinese proverb, “The green reed which bends in the wind, is stronger than the mighty oak which breaks in the storm.” So, the question of which is best depends on the storms (i.e. trails) you hope to chase.

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If your vehicle has recently picked up a slight vibration and some road noise, it could be an indication that your tyres need rotating. Other symptoms of an overdue tyre-service include:

1. Higher costs per kilometre 
2. Uneven tread wear
3. Increased road noise, and
4. Steering wheel vibrations

So, why do tyres wear unevenly?

First off, your front tyres generally carry more load than the rear, and because they also take sharper turns, the wear rate is different. However, your tyres also wear differently from left to right, and that’s because we typically take corners faster to the right when driving on the left-hand side of the road. And lastly, the road’s natural camber also causes uneven tyre wear.

Rotating your tyres helps to equalise these wear rates, which means longer tyre life, quieter road noise and a smoother ride. This is true for all tyres, but failure to follow a rotation schedule is particularly noticeable on all-terrain and mud-terrain tyres.

But how often should you rotate your tyres? And, which is just as important, in what sequence should you rotate them?

4WD REVOLUTION: “CLICK HERE FOR AN INSTANT QUOTE ON 4X4 TYRES“

Relying on your local tyre dealer to know this information is not always a good idea, as the rotation pattern is different for Front-Wheel Drive (FWD), Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) and All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles. Throw in the problem of incorporating a fifth tyre (the spare), and the subject becomes even more confusing.

As a general rule, you should first check the vehicle’s Owner’s Manual for the recommended tyre-rotation sequence. However, if you can’t find the relevant info, there are several ways to rotate your tyres. Here’s what you need to know for your vehicle type…

FORWARD CROSS (FWD vehicles)

The front tyres move straight back to the rear, and the rear tyres move to the opposite front position.

See Diagram A below.

REARWARD CROSS (RWD vehicles and part-time 4x4s)

The rear tyres move straight up to the front, and the front tyres move to the opposite rear position.

See Diagram C below.

X-PATTERN (FWD vehicles)

This is an alternative sequence to the forward-cross pattern. Here, the front tyres move to the opposite rear positions, and the rear tyres move to the opposite front positions.

FRONT TO BACK (Directional Tyres)

Due to their specific tread pattern, directional tyres are designed to move only in a single direction, which means that the tyres have to move from the front to the back, while remaining on the same side of the vehicle. In other words, the front right tyre moves to the back right, and the front left tyre moves to the back left.

5 TYRE PATTERN (AWD Vehicles and Full-Time 4x4s)

If your vehicle is equipped with a full-size spare, you may want to incorporate the fifth tyre into your rotation sequence to ensure even wear. This can be particularly important for AWD vehicles and full-time 4x4s, where a difference in tyre diameter could put unnecessary strain on the vehicle’s drivetrain.

In this case, move the left-rear tyre to the left-front position, and the right rear tyre to the right front position. The right front tyre goes to the left rear position, the spare tyre moves to the right rear position, and the left front tyre then becomes the spare.

See Diagram D below.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU ROTATE YOUR TYRES?

Just as your vehicle has an annual maintenance plan, your tyres need regular maintenance to ensure optimum performance, tread-life, and comfort. Your vehicle’s service book should provide guidelines on how often your tyres need balancing, rotation and alignment.

Brought to you by TyreLife Solutions

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In order to answer the above question you first need to know:

• How much power are you using on a daily basis, and…
• How much time do you have to replace it?

Naturally, your camping fridge uses different degrees of power throughout the day. This is because ambient temperatures can radically fluctuate between morning and night.

It also has a lot to do with opening and closing the fridge, which you’ll presumably do more often during the course of the day, than you would at night

However, typically speaking, most 12V camping fridges use between 30A/h and 40A/h over a 24-hour period.

Depending on daylight conditions, as well as your geographic location, most campsites have anywhere between 2- and 7-hours of usable solar input.

Considering an 85W panel produces approximately 5A per hour (in ideal conditions), you would need at least 7-hours to replenish the 35A you’ve removed.

That said, in order to account for non-ideal conditions such as dew and partly cloudy weather, it’s best to upsize the panel to a 120W or 150W unit. What’s more, upsizing your panel will help to produce enough energy to power additional camping accessories such as LED lighting, and/or a cellphone charger.

Of course, the above calculations are radically simplified in terms of fridge size, performance, operating conditions, and how often you’re reaching for “one last beer”.

That said, it’s not uncommon to find campers using panels that are up to 300W in size. However, bear in mind that your regulator would need to be rated to this capacity, and that such a panel would be impractically large in the case of a non-flexible unit.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

1)   Does the quality of the panel make a big difference?

Yes, panel quality can significantly affect the performance and efficiency of your solar setup. Panels are typically divided into two main options: Monocrystalline and polycrystalline. Monocrystalline panels are generally more expensive and better performing due to their structure being made from one large crystal. This is in contrast to Polycrystalline panels which are made from lots of smaller crystals.

It also means that Monocrystalline panels produce more energy in relation to their size. 

2)   Does the quality of the regulator make a big difference?

This will depend on several factors, but generally speaking MPPT regulators are better performing and more costly than PWM regulators.

3)   Does my battery type make a big difference?

Yes, battery chemistry (and size) can play a significant roll in the performance of your solar setup.

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